09x05 - Art Week

[bunniefuu]

We all love art, whether it be
a painting of Scotland

or a life-size sculpture
of the Honey Monster.

And art has long inspired fashion.

Are we inspiring you, Patrick?

I'm about to cut my ears off!

Welcome to Art Week
at the Great British Sewing Bee.

Last time...

Bid on this recyclable
sculpture of Patrick.

...the sewers turned
trash into treasure.

How cute is that?

While Mia triumphed with
her recycled crochet blanket...

The whole thing was
beautifully ex*cuted.

...Tony W struggled.

It's not quite what I wanted.

But it was Matthew who became
the fourth person

to leave the sewing room.

It's definitely
been life-changing,

and kind of life-affirming.

Now it's Art Week.

Suffer for our art.

Sewers make abstract skirts...

It's all just crazy.
CHUCKLES

...turn canvases into clothing...

It's a top, made out of a painting!
Yeah!

...then create garments inspired
by the Surrealist art movement.

It's from my dreams.

But who...

God!
...will have a nightmare?

It's just the fit of it
that slightly lets it down.

MUSIC: Bouge Ta Bouche
by Ann De Renais and Ben Parry

I'm so excited for this week.

I think it's going to be really fun,
Art Week, it's right up my alley.

There are so many different
artists I like.

I'm inspired by bold crazy ones.

I mean, Picasso's an obvious one.

My first thoughts about this week
is, "Oh, my God, what have

"they got in store for us?"

I think we're all
half expecting to have crayons

and pencils in there and
tell us to draw something.

So, we'll see.

Welcome back, sewers. This week is
all about clothes inspired by art.

So grab your best beret and put
your dad's work shirt on backwards,

and let's get messy.

Fashion and art have always had
a close relationship,

just like me and Esme.

Essie, what's the pattern
challenge this week? Right.

Here we go.

Pass them round. Thank you.

What we want you to make
is a gathered skirt

inspired by Modernist art.

You need to applique ten abstract
shapes, and it's got a big bow.

Yes!
LAUGHTER

The skirt and the bow should be
made from taffeta,

which you'll
find on the cutting table.

You'll also find fabric scraps for
your shapes in the bins provided.

You have four hours,
and your time... starts now!

Look at that.
Wow!

Modernism is a 20th-century
abstract art movement.

Modern's like big, bold,
bright colours.

Big shapes.

Paintings from the era have inspired
the works

of many high-end fashion designers.

Now the sewers must follow suit.

I'm going to do
red abstract flowers.

They have artistic licence to use
any of the shapes provided.

I love art. I did do art at school,
I did art A Level.

It's just in my blood.

I'm just an artiste, you know?

FRENCH ACCENT: I like to
make it pop,

and you've just got to
have a bit of zhuzh, you know.

Tell me, why did you choose this?

It's a very fun, graphic challenge,

and how they manage all of
those coloured panels

is absolutely key to how
this garment will look.

One thing that is really important
is I'd like to see

something abstract. Oh, you don't
want them to make a picture?

No, cos that's not Modernist.

Also we've asked them

to create this gathered skirt
with a plain waistband.

And we want these applique patches
to sit flat on the garment.

We don't want wrinkles,
we don't want tucks around the edge.

Well, let's go and see who's
heading for the Turner Prize

and who needs to turn it around.

ESME CHUCKLES

I'm excited. It's different.

We'll see how it goes.

Lordy , L...!
Oh, my goodness, look at that!

The Modernist art skirt is made
from a whopping 3.5 metres of

luxurious taffeta silk.

Oh, it's huge!

First, two skirt panels
are joined and hemmed.

Next, colourful shapes are appliqued
on to the front.

Then the side seams are stitched up,

the skirt is gathered on
to a waistband,

and finally a colossal bow

is bagged out and
tied around the waist.

Hello, Sara.
Hi, Lizzie. How's it going?

This is very pretty.

Well, you know, I like to choose
colours that make people's

eyes explode a little bit.
Yes. I love it.

Cos I was an art student.

Art student in the '90s.
Oh, wow, bet that was fun.

It was brill.
So you understand this challenge.

Get on with it, then!
THEY LAUGH

See you in a bit.
Thanks!

With the sewers harnessing
their inner Modernist artist,

bright colours are popping up
across the room.

So, hopefully, it's going
to look a bit flamey.

Brighter colours should be
modern and fit right in.

Lauren, though, prefers
a more muted approach.

So I'm just using black
and then a green.

Feel like, as an adult, you can't
be as crazy as you want to be.

And I'm always worried that if
I'm too flamboyant

it will just look like
I'm wearing my children's clothes.

But Tony W is going
even more monochrome.

I've got sort of
a stormy grey skirt.

I wouldn't call it stormy.

OK, miserable day in Leeds grey?
Yeah. Miserable day grey.

Miserable day grey.
Let's go with that. Yeah.

So we've got some raindrops but
I'm not sure if you want garish.

I'm not an artist-y type person.

I think the only thing is
the applique is a key part of it,

so we have to be able to see it,
however you think that works best.

Fauve, do you like art?

No, I should like art,

because my name is
an artistic movement.

Fauve is an artistic movement?
Yeah. Fauvism. What...? What...?

So it's like your dress. Is it?

It'd be, like, bright colours
and big brushstrokes.

Your parents love art?
No.

We're sporty.

Why didn't they call
you Basketball, then?

THEY LAUGH

So I'm just hemming the skirt.

Then you have to get creative.

Colour isn't the only consideration
when making the Modernist art skirt.

The sewers must think about
which shapes to use...

I quite like big white dots
cos I want it to be abstract.

...and work out their placement.

I'm going for collage-y crazy.
Yeah, crazy.

Crazy but fun.

It's all about Modernist movement,

so it's not actually
literally flames.

Abstract creations
appear to be in vogue.

Abstract art looks
less sort of forced.

But Fauve prefers
a more realistic approach.

Big surprise here,
I'm going to do floral.

We've got a daisy.

Tulip. Tulip. And a leaf. Leaf.

So it's quite literal.
It looks like a garden.

But that's what I'm doing.

Yeah, all right.

♪ I wanna live my life
like a work of art

♪ If there's just one thing... ♪

Oh, you're halfway through!
Argh!

♪ Live your life
like a work of art. ♪

I'm doing the applique.

Thought I'd pin them well
cos I want it sitting very flat.

They've asked us
to use a zigzag stitch

to make sure that you can...

In case of raw edges
round your applique.

The application is
the focal point of the skirt.

Why did I choose this shape?
Stupid shape.

Oh!

A neat finish is no mean
feat for those who chose

complex, curved motifs.

This is the shape that I thought
was going to cause me grief.

Oh, there's so many curves!

It's just going to take forever.

It's just slow and steady,
I think, slow and steady.

But the cautious approach
isn't for Tony.

So I've gone quite quick.

And I guess it's...
Ah, it's a right dog's dinner.

I think the judges are looking
for far better sewing.

It's just, uh, a bit unnerving
being a little bit ahead.

Lauren, though, is more
concerned about colour.

Just slightly panicking.

Like, foreboding.
Foreboding, yeah.

Everyone else has done very
sort of primary-colour, childlike.

You've done Angelina Jolie,
a little bit gothy. Mm-hm, mm-hm.

But what I love about you, Lauren,
is you have your own mind.

And you have your own ideas.
"You don't follow a brief."

THEY LAUGH

I've got a feeling, with Modernist,
Esme's going to probably say

it's too understated.

I know Patrick appreciates understated,

cos he's very smoothly dressed,
so perhaps I'll please Patrick.

How's the crush on Patrick going?

Um...

Have you still got your little man?

Five weeks into the relationship.

Five weeks! That's Patrick's longest
girlfriend! Five weeks! Oh, my God!

So, uh, if you want me to make you
a dress for the wedding...

Oh, I'd love a dress
for the wedding. Yeah?

Do you want to be
the maid of honour?

I'd love to be maid of honour!
Good.

Gotten really carried away with
the fantasy now, I have to stress.

It's not a fantasy, it's real.

Oh, you've got an hour left!

Oh, gosh!

I have a skirt. Very big skirt.

In order for the skirts to fit
the mannequin's waist,

the sewers must gather
a massive amount of material.

I need to pull long stitches
to create a gather.

The idea is to squash
a lot of fabric into a small space.

It's taking a bit of time.

This mammoth task. Gathering.

I'm sewing the waistband
as quickly as I can.

Finished. Looks like a skirt.
Look at that. Oh, wow!

It's stunning. Oh!

But Mia has made a rookie error.

My skirt is too
small for the mannequin.

I seem to have accidentally
cut the waistband too short.

OK, how long I've got...

You've got 30 minutes left,
everybody!

Oh, we'll just have to carry on.

Whether the skirts fit or not...

Massive bow? Expecting drama.

...they now require a colossal bow.

Big bow energy!

Just bagging this out so essentially
it's pulling it the right way.

I'm going to keep it in my hand
just so that I can get this bit.

Got to push out your corners.

Go, Fauve.

♪ Push it real good! ♪

My bow does go with
what you're wearing.

Well, hello, I'm off to the races.

Right, I've got my hook
and bar on there as well.

Ugh...

Haven't got time for that.

We suffer for our art.

Power pressing.

How long have we got left?

One minute left, everyone!

Oh!

My waistband's too short,
but put a cheeky bow on it...

The moment of truth.

Oh, yeah! Come on.

Paintbrushes down, sewers!
I mean, needles up!

That is your time.

Yeah, it's coming.

Oh, my gosh, I've just realised
the funniest thing.

Looks like one of my tattoos.

My husband says that it looks like
when you've left a plaster

on your skin for too long and you
get that weird layer of dirt.

I've gone for something that
I think looks quite pleasing.

Art is subjective.

♪ We are fire
We are fire

♪ And our love will burn

♪ The flame will never die... ♪

Eight Modernist art skirts
fashioned in just four hours.

If it was up to me,

these skirts would all get
a grant from the Arts Council.

What do you guys think?

I feel like I've fallen asleep
and woken up in the Louvre.

THEY LAUGH

♪ We will glow

♪ And we will glow. ♪

Lizzie, your colours are terrific.

You know, it reminds me of

a Moroccan spice market
or something.

It's got a kind of jewelled
look about it, actually.

You haven't got anything
too close to the edge.

It all seems very considered.

You've made it abstract.

And also you've overlapped
the applique pieces, which I like.

The attachment is absolutely
perfectly accurate,

and your gathering
is really very neat indeed.

You've done a good job.
Thank you.

♪ Art is art

♪ Art is art.... ♪

I like the colours but I just feel

this great big circle
shouldn't be there.

It's unfortunate. Cos you've got
a big blank space here,

this one particularly leaps out.

But overall, I think it's
really quite well put together.

Thanks.

♪ Art is art

♪ Art is art. ♪

The choice of black with these
quite poppy primary colours

has worked really well,
and your applique,

I think it's sitting very flat.

My only critique would be
that it's very literal.

You've created flowers to the extent

that you've popped a little
yellow in the middle of your daisy.

It isn't Modernist.
It's not abstract enough.

OK.

♪ Aaah

♪ Feeling the love again

♪ The love again

♪ Aah... ♪

I like the colours
of all your applique.

The yellow, red and blue
all go really well together.

This floral shape could've
done with being up a bit.

It feels like
it's about to fall off.

But it does feel very Modernist.

The bow is neatly bagged out,
your edges are well pressed.

The quality of sewing
is really clean.

Well done.
Thank you.

Tony, I think it's more Turner's
misty Thames than Modernist.

We were expecting
more contrast, more pop.

Looking at this,
you can't see the applique.

Also, some of the applique is
a little bit ragged, unfortunately.

I think it's a shame
we don't have better contrast.

The green needed to be paler
for those black shapes to leap out.

Also, they're not very well sewn on.

Got a little fold. Yeah.

I like the use of colour,
I like the positioning,

but I think it's a little bit
untidy, the way it's been appliqued.

I'd have pinned them flatter
so you don't get wrinkles.

Yeah.

I like the colours, and also
you've done it in that shade,

so you obviously thought about that.

But the big gap in the waistband
is a howling great gaffe.

I didn't realise it didn't fit
until I actually put it on. Mm.

Patrick and Esme will now rank
the Modernist art skirts

from eighth to first place.

In eighth place, Tony W.

The colours left it looking
very flat, unfortunately.

Seventh place is Lauren.

The colour combination wasn't great,

and how you sewed
the applique was not good.

Mia came sixth, Tony R fifth,

Fauve fourth, and Vicki came third.

In second place...

...is Asmaa.

It was really beautifully sewn.

I think the colours have worked
fantastically well.

They all popped really nicely.

For me, maybe just
a tiny bit on the placement.

Thank you.

So, in first place is... Lizzie!

APPLAUSE

Very nicely made, and
a great combination of colours.

Fabulous.

Thank you. Thanks so much.

Ah, well done, though, Lizzie.

What just happened up there?!

They just kept not calling my name.

LAUGHS
I won it!

Yay!

I went for something
that I quite like,

where it's a little bit
more subtle,

a little bit more, maybe, sleek.

But that wasn't what
they were looking for.

And then it was badly sewn as well.

Art is a reflection of yourself.

That's the one thing I cannot
change. I can change my skill

but I can't change who I am, and
that was a reflection of who I am.

So, yeah,
I'm going to stick with it.

For the next challenge, the sewing
room has become an art gallery.

Oh, good God!
Oh, my gosh! OK.

Wow, this is someone's art
we're about to destroy!

Do you think? I don't know.
Good grief.

It's time now
for the transformation.

This is the one where you take
something normal

and you make it look
unrecognisable, like

when Picasso does your portrait
and now you have four noses.

Patrick, what are we getting them
to do this week?

We've raided the studios at
Leeds Arts University

and we've brought you back
a selection of canvases

painted by the fantastic
fine art students.

We want you to take one painting
and turn it into a garment.

Now, cos it's quite
a robust fabric,

we expect it to be sculptural.

This one is judged blind so these
guys are off to the gift shop.

Let them know if you need
a sharpener or a Frida Kahlo yo-yo.

You got your pocket money?
Off you go.

You have 90 minutes,

and your time starts now.

MUSIC: Creative by Leon Jackson

Going for it.

The canvases the sewers choose
will have a huge bearing

on the final look of the garments.

I liked all the strokes in it.

You know, something
a bit loud and fun.

Have to be really careful
about how I'm going to work this.

Someone's artwork, isn't it?

And I'm about to make something
probably not that great with it!

We have commissioned
a bunch of fantastic canvases

from the students.

It's worth saying that
they did know

that they were going to be cut up
and turned into garments.

Well, it is, yeah.

We need them to incorporate
the elements of the painting

into the garment
in a very considered way.

When they manipulate
the canvas, obviously

they will manipulate
the image that's underneath

and they have to think about
how all of that works.

And cos it's painted
and it's canvas, it will be very 3D.

Yeah, I mean, it's incredibly
sculptural as a base fabric.

And we want them to use that. Definitely.

They have to go with what the fabric

is telling them to do.

Well, all I'm hoping for, Esme,
is that we don't get left with

a load of Jackson Pollocks.

I like a Jackson Pollock.

Hiya, Mia. This looks exciting.
It's Art Week. It's Art Week.

Should be in tune. Ah, you're in the
flow. Exactly. You're in the zone.

I'm going to make a dress.

It's about structure, as well.

So, what better than
to just ruffle it?

I liked the swirls in the motif
for this, which is why I've

gone for a top with a centre panel.

I'm hoping to do something
structural with the sleeves.

It's going to be a dress.

It reminds me
of, like, shards of, um, icing.

Ooh! So...

And that's very structural.
...I'm happy.

Many of the sewers
are going sculptural.

Others' designs, not so much.

It's a jacket,
and the collar comes out of it.

I don't really know
whether that's enough structure.

I want it to be a dungaree dress.

Not quite sure
if I've got structure.

OK, so this is the top?
Something like that. Yeah.

There's no structure yet -
it's just an open jacket.

It'll have a sleeve.

I just struggle with this challenge.

Do you? Why? Yeah, cos
I don't think I'm very good,

at on-the-spot creativity.

But people telling themselves
they're bad at this challenge

makes it so much harder... Do you
reckon? ..than people that tell

themselves, "Oh, I've
really improved at this."

Oh, I am getting better at it. Hold
on to that. I needed that pep talk.

Great.

UPBEAT POP MUSIC

You are halfway through!

Oh, the stress!

Can you hear that on the machine?

It's got to get through a few
layers of acrylic paint and canvas.

Like this bit, look - you can't
even get a needle through that.

That is the fattest bit of paint.
Ow!

While most are in combat
with their tough canvases...

Broken a needle. Argh!

...Tony R is having
a crisis of confidence.

I've got a tunic of sorts.
Oh, wonderful.

No, it's not that pretty.

It's a very basic form, I'm sure,

in comparison to
a lot of other people's.

I feel so, so sorry
for the artist of this piece as well

cos I did love this painting.
I've gone into Tony panic mode.

It's not panic, it's hyper mode in
a... in a good way. In a good way.

It's constructive. Yeah.

You all right, Vicki?
VICKI CHUCKLES

I'm just doing what I always
do and I'm just making it up.

You know, it's maybe
not as complex as someone else's.

Yours looks great, Lauren.
Thank you.

Hi, Asmaa. Hello.

This is so beautiful,
what you're constructing.

Really? Thank you. It's really
beautiful. I...I thought it looked

like a bit like an elephant.
Now I see the elephant.

Can you see the elephant? Trunk and
ears. It was not intentional.

But also, elephants are beautiful.
They are.

And then hopefully
this is going to... Ooh!

...come up like that. Yes.

And like that.

A side panel gives me boob coverage.

FRENCH ACCENT: This is a back panel.

It is so we don't have any
side boob.

Nobody wants the side boob.

I like the side boob but not
everyone likes a side boob,

so, uh, we, uh,
have no side boob today.

LAUGHTER

So I need to cover up her
modesty here. Yes, of course.

Are you doing some
draping and pinning?

Draping and pinning, pleating.

So it is a little bit like a shell.
Got, like, a kilt-y skirt.

It's quite abstract.
That's really exciting.

Yeah. If I even come top three
in this transformation challenge,

I'm running through a canvas.
Yeah. Oh, great, OK.

That one's still up.
Yeah, we'll do that one.

I'll go straight through the hole.

Half an hour left, everyone!

Oh, gosh!

I know nothing about art,

so Patrick and Esme, they're going
to probably say it's too boring.

I need to add a bias binding.

Oh, God!

I'm stressed.

Tony W's hopes are pinned
on trims from the haberdashery,

while the rest of the sewers
are using their canvases

to create more sculpture.

Just going to use
this last bit of feature.

This goes this way and then do a
skirt that goes round the other way.

So it's like... whoosh, whoosh!

I was hoping to add something here.

Let's see if I can.

I'm going to attempt to put a godet
in. Oh, you're making a godet?

Out of a painting?!

I am just sewing on a popper.

Oh, it's a workout!

Tony. Hiya. Hiya! Ah!

What's going on?
Bias binding.

I'm hoping it feels arty. Fantastic.

My transformation alter ego...
SHE CHUCKLES

...is just making crazy stuff.

You see what we're doing?
Oof! Stunning.

It looks like an electrical storm.

I can honestly say I have never made
anything like this before.

So, where are we, then?

Five minutes left, everyone!

If I was in panic mode earlier,
I'm in super panic mode now.

Right, this is it.

It's something.

I think that's holding quite cool.

It's finished.

Try and make
it as 3D as I possibly can.

All in the name of art.

Needles up, sewers!

That is your time.

Please bring your mannequins
forward and muddle them up

like Tracey Emin's bedspread. CHUCKLING

Fauve. Love it.

It's a concept, that, isn't it?

Could you imagine
if you wore that on a night out?

"Just taking my canvas out with me."

♪ Never give the game away

♪ Try to keep me entertained, baby

♪ Leave something

♪ For me in my imagination... ♪

Eight art canvas outfits fashioned
in just one and a half hours.

Judges may re-enter the gallery.

No flash photography permitted.

Ooh!

Patrick and Esme have no idea
whose is whose.

Amazing. Love it. Wow.

♪ Don't ever give the game away

♪ Try to keep me entertained

♪ For me in my imagination... ♪

This is sculptural, upright. Fabulous.

I love what they've done with
all the sections here.

Has a slightly metallic
look about it.

The whole thing looks
a little bit like armour.

They've created negative spaces
and busy spaces.

I like also how they've folded this
piece. Really gives it a 3D feeling.

And I love how they've placed
this piece of painting.

It's got tons of presence.

And I think, in 90 minutes, it's
quite amazing what they've done.

I...I agree.

♪ We are one

♪ Caught here under the starlight,
starlight, starlight

♪ Cos tonight

♪ We found heaven
in the dark... ♪

The whole thing is in this slightly

sort of splattered,
graphic black canvas.

And there's a very obviously
kind of punky feel.

You know, very Westwood
to do a little mini kilt.

Then we've got the sort
of sunray-pleated front.

And very sculptural. I agree.

I like the colours,
I think it has drama.

It's a tunic top.

It's maybe not
quite as dramatic as the last one.

I personally think it isn't.

And this is stiff.
It is stiff.

So they could've made
something really 3D.

It's a little top and a collar.

This is very simple. Yeah.

They've got just this gold binding.

It needed to be
a bit more ambitious.

Got pleats at the back.

It sort of echoes a man's tail coat

but the crotch position
of this cutaway jars.

If it came away nearer the waist,
I think it would feel more elegant.

It's a dungaree dress.

They've used the painting
extremely well.

But I think it needs to be more 3D.

It's an apron.

But in a funny way, it
sort of echoes a painter's apron.

Oh, yeah.

♪ Something kinda ooooh

♪ Jumpin' on my tutu

♪ Something 'side of me

♪ Wanting what you dooo-ooh... ♪

Well, this is very sculptural.

We've got this 3D fan... Fan.

...which echoes the fan at the side.

It was a very busy-all-over...
Yes, yes. ..painting,

so they haven't had to think
too carefully about where...

No, they haven't. ..the elements
go, but actually what they have done

is create a really fantastic shape.

It looks very high-fashion.

♪ The brightest blue, blue

♪ Blue, blue

♪ The brightest blue, blue

♪ Tonight

♪ Give me the brightest
blue, blue... ♪

This also is absolutely fantastic.

I mean, it's such a brilliant shape.

I love how they've placed this
piece of painting in a really

creative way.

This beautiful nautilus shell is
a centrepiece for the whole garment.

And turn it round, they've created
that back, these enormous...

It's like... ..pleated wings.
...a butterfly! It's so dynamic.

Exactly. This person has done such
tremendous credit to the original

painting from every angle
you look at it.

Yeah. It's amazing.
It looks great.

The judges must now rank
the art canvas outfits.

Who has sculpted a showpiece,

and whose belongs in
the corner of the gallery?

In eighth place
is this blue jacket,

with the collar and the sleeves.

That's Tony.

It's not exciting enough for me.

In seventh place is the V neck top
with the puff sleeves.

That's Vicki.

Just lacked some of the sculptured
quality of some of the others.

Thank you.

In sixth place is
the blue-and-white top.

That's Tony.

Just feel that it should've been
a bit shorter at the front.

OK, thanks.

Lizzie came fifth,
Fauve fourth, and Mia third.

In second place...

...is this dress here
that reminded us of armour.

That's Lauren.

Really like how
you folded pieces away.

It's great.
Thank you. Thank you.

Means, in first place,
is our incredible

nautilus shell sculpture
on the right.

It's Asmaa.

APPLAUSE

This is an exceptional transformation.

You used the painting perfectly,
had so much drama and sculpture.

Well done. Thank you so much.
Thank you, thank you. Well done.

I am in a bit of shock.

When I was listening
to those comments, I thought

they were probably talking
about somebody else, to be honest

with you, but it was a very,
very nice thing to hear.

It went really well!

I am... Whoa! ..just speechless!

I'm not so good at spontaneous creativity.

If I say, um, it's something that
I'd like to work on

and hopefully get better at?

I'm going to still try tomorrow to
make a good garment.

If somebody else has a major crisis,
might be enough to save me.

There's just one more challenge
left in Art Week

before the judges have to
make their big decision.

So, who's heading for the Tate,

and who's staying on Mum's fridge?

ESME LAUGHS

Fauve, Mia, Lauren, Asmaa

delivered extraordinary transformations.

They were spectacularly creative
and fantastically conceived.

But Tony W was bottom
in both challenges.

He just did not go for it.

Is there anyone else at the bottom?

Tony R and Vicki.

Tony R came lower middle
in both challenges.

I think Tony R's
transformation,

where he put that cut-out on
the crotch just looked a bit odd.

I thought Vicki's
transformation was dull.

There's no sculpture in that.

Doesn't feel very imaginative.

Well, let's find out who's keeping
their magnus opus for

the made-to-measure and who might be
able to Tipp-Ex over

what's happened so far.

For the made-to-measure,

models will bring the sewers'
artistic creations to life.

Morning, darling.

Welcome back, sewers,
and bonjour to our models!

For this week's made-to-measure,
the judges would like you to make

an outfit inspired
by the Surrealist movement.

So, explore
and unlock your unconscious

but try not to lose the key.

You have five hours,
and your time starts now.

Surrealism is a 20th-century art
movement which often

visualised dreams.

It's synonymous with
the works of Salvador Dali.

Oh, I'm so excited about this

because it's a lot about seeing
into your subconscious mind.

Feeling like it's a piece of art
that we're creating today.

So, has the fashion
industry ever been

influenced by Surrealism before,
or is this a first?

Surrealism pops up in fashion
all the time.

I think of clock faces,
I think of Bjork's swan dress.

I want to see something
that leaps off the catwalk.

I want to see a surprise.

I want to feel like I've
entered the world of the absurd.

And so, with Surrealism,
a lot of the artists talk

a lot about sort of dreams. Could
the sewers utilise their own dreams?

Yeah, it's important
they express themselves,

which is what artists do.

So you might get another
side of some of the sewers.

Definitely.

Hey, Lizzie. Hi.

Thanks for putting all these things
for me to play with. You're welcome.

Thank you.
Yeah, you're welcome.

What you making?
I'm making, uh, a crazy thing.

Love a bit of Picasso.

The distorted eye motif is a popular
theme, and so the eyes will be

on this boxy top and then
water will be billowing out.

Oh, lovely.

Lizzie's water-like skirt will be

sculpted with a hoop of boning.

Her Picasso-inspired top features

two eerie eye sleeves.

In order to attach my eyes,
this is a bit magic.

So you pull binding to gather it in.

I see. Ooh! Yeah?

So it's like a... a lizard's eye.

Or a frog's eye.
Or Lizzie's eye. Lizzie's eye!

Vicki has also chosen an eye motif.

I tried to take the key
elements of Surrealism.

Um, so I've got a massive
eye on the front of the top

because it reminds me
of seeing into your subconscious.

The symbolism of the unknown, almost.

The sky-blue iris of Vicki's eye

matches the colour of her skirt.

In order to give the top texture,

she's adding wadding

and decorative lines of quilting.

Vicki, with Surrealism being
inspired by dreams,

do you have any weird dreams?

I don't dream now I've got kids,
cos I never sleep well enough.

Oh, yeah.

Vicki might not be a dreamer...

Morning. Morning.

...but Asmaa has
strong memories of hers.

My idea, it's from my dreams. Oh!

One of my recurring
dreams from childhood is I'm always

running away from something.
So you've got a snake. Wow.

Cos this is influenced
by your childhood? Yeah.

You must feel emotional making this.
Yeah. I do.

The dreams Asmaa has of growing up

in Iraq will be

represented in her Surrealist dress.

It features a cobra snake

and multicoloured panels to signify

her different emotions.

The chiffon fabric will be textured

using an old-fashioned technique.

Just starching cos
I want to crease it all.

You've spray-starched this... Yeah.

...and now you're twisting it,

so that's going to give you that
texture in the fabric.

I really hope so, yeah.
It's almost a bit like a tie-dye.

Fabulous. Thank you. Very good.
Thank you.

With Asmaa in a dream world,

Fauve is going for something
more concrete.

I was inspired by
the I Saw Three Cities painting

by Kay Sage,

and it's got drapery on a statue,

but then geometric shapes

so it's quite a juxtaposition

in floaty rigid shapes.

So I've interpreted
that into the fabric I'm using,

so I'm using leather and lace.

Fauve is contrasting feminine lace

with edgy leatherette

to create her architectural dress.

It features soft drapes,

sharp handkerchief hems and a veil.

So you know I was saying about me
and Patrick? Can you marry us?

Um, I think you're overestimating
my responsibilities here!

I don't have the rights to legally
bind people, especially not

when one of them doesn't know. Yeah.

THEY LAUGH

Tony also has wedding bells
on his mind.

My outfit is inspired by a painting
by somebody called Max Ernst.

It's called The Robing of the Bride.

And it's this woman being forced

into this giant red bird cloak.

And I actually found it made me
feel quite uncomfortable.

So I thought, well,
we'll go with that!

He's harnessing Surrealist bird

imagery in his Gothic bridal gown.

It features feathers,

floating godet sleeves

and a bolero jacket.

But if Tony is to fly high,
he must handle slippery velvet.

Velvet's a nightmare to sew.

But if worst comes to worst,
stick a feather on it

and you have a lovely time.
Yeah, and it feels very arty to me.

I'm hoping they'll see
where I'm going. I'm excited.

Hopefully not home.
Good!

Many designers have used
art for inspiration.

In the early 20th century,
a renowned fashion figure sought out

the ultimate collaboration.

Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli
occupied a world of

Parisian haute couture,

but she was always interested
in working with artists.

She decided to team up
with Salvador Dali,

the maestro of Surrealism,

who shared her fascination with

themes of life and death.

Schiaparelli designed the
Skeleton Dress with Salvador Dali.

She used a trapunto quilting
technique to create

a protruding skeleton outline
with individual bones.

The design was a dramatic
representation of mortality

and human fragility,

and the couture world was shocked.

But Schiaparelli was not
interested in conforming.

She would've relished the fact
that her designs challenged

the idea of good taste.

The colour, shocking pink,
was her brainchild, after all.

Her rebellious Surrealist
legacy lives on

in a Schiaparelli catwalk today.

♪ Imagination

♪ Could make me love you too... ♪

You're halfway through!

Argh!

I'm quilting the eye
as quick as I can.

While Vicki battles to complete
her decorative quilting...

Does it fit OK? Yeah.

...the rest of the bodices are ready
for the all-important fitting.

Yeah, no, that's OK.

Though, when it comes to Surrealist
fashion, size isn't everything.

That's a very small shirt.

It's going to sit on my model
like this. Oh, OK.

You be my model.
OK, so it's on the model, not...

Yeah, it's on the model. Ah!
So it's... On the outside.

...a cute little shirt!

Lauren is playing with

the Surrealist theme
of distorted sizing

by suspending a miniature shirt

and hanger outside the body.

The dinky size contrasts with

the colossal gathered skirt.

The tulle is 12 metres.
There's loads of sewing!

12 metres?! Loads and loads.
Yeah. I'll try not to put

it in a knot, then. OK, good luck,
Lauren. Thank you.

The sewers who have
completed their bodices can now

push on with their skirts,

from boning...

I'll do a hoop to create
some volume.

...to hemming with delicate lace.

Oh, my God!

The leather's got a stretch to it,

so it's just caught a little bit
with the netting.

But Tony W is combining
two even-trickier materials.

Sorry, I'm massacring feathers
and velvet.

It's a nightmare
cos the velvet curls.

Though, for Mia, life
is far from a struggle.

All done!

With her dress already finished,

she's free to crack on with
the embellishments.

Now I need to make big pompoms,

cos my dress is
inspired by Surrealist fashion.

All those brands who do, like, more,
like, fun camp and then silly.

This is my own take.

Look, a big cloud,
and that'll be on the dress.

Whoosh, whoosh!

Mia has to make over 20 pompoms to

create her cute cloud dress.

The hemline features

crystal bead raindrops.

It's just a little fun thing.

For my 60th birthday I got
all my friends to make pompoms...

Ah! ..and I decorated my beach hut
with them.

So, like, flowers.

Got more now!

Terrific.

Mia might be bringing the fun factor
to Surrealist fashion...

...but Tony R is getting
all deep and philosophical.

I've been inspired by
a Rene Magritte painting,

it's called The Treachery of Images.

Shows a pipe, and underneath in
French is written,

"This is not a pipe."

And the message is how
images can trick people.

So this is a picture of a pipe,
not a pipe.

I talk to my kids about
this painting in particular

in regards to social media.

Tony's making his statement

against fake imagery with a dress

simply titled, "This Is A Dress".

It's minimalist in both

the graphic lettering and shape.

I've got a very basic silhouette
because it's a dress.

It's about what the dress is
saying, literally. Yeah.

Did you think at all about putting
"This is a good dress"?

And then the judges... Nope.

...would maybe be going,
"Oh, it's a really...

"It's the best dress."

No, that's just blowing
your own trumpet, isn't it?

One hour left!

All right, Sara!

Jeez!

Once the component parts
are complete,

the Surrealist garments
can be brought to life.

So I'm just pinning all
the pompoms on the skirt.

I'll be draping these panels
right on top, on the model.

But drama isn't everything.

Sewers must also consider the fit.

I'm a little bit nervous.

The top's too big!

Haven't really got enough time
to think about it.

Vicki's, it's quite
effective-looking. Yeah.

But the whole of the top
is far too big.

Fit is important.

Don't just put an eye on it.

This dress, it's just a black dress,
innit? That's all it is.

But, um, I see a lot more than that,
than just a black dress.

Tony R, it's quite a simple dress. Yes.

Um, his vinyl's all black.

I think because of that
it may lack a bit of impact.

But Tony W is going
for maximum impact.

Having completed his feathered
velvet bridal gown, he's now

undertaking an equally elaborate
bolero jacket.

This bolero will add
a little bit of drama.

Tony W, he's happy with
what he's made so far.

We've got dress and a jacket, and
there is a Surrealist feel to it.

Definitely.

He seems to be
getting on really well, actually.

You've got half an hour left!

Oh, my God!

This skirt seems to take forever.

I'm just stuffing a very long snake.

This is stretching so much.

Putting on raindrops.

Wow, this is like
a kid's party-dress dream.

This is the sensation of water.

That is such a twisted snake.

I'm really glad you've gone dark.
Yeah?

We've got light things.

I think you're going to
pierce through that

and what's really inside
the human mind. Yeah, I know!

Matt black on black,
cos Surrealism can be plain.

Or it's the antithesis of what
everyone else is doing.

Whoa, that is so cool.

That fits, just got to
hand-stitch the inside.

Five minutes left, everybody!

Or maybe not!

Stress!
Done the snake.

Need a dress. Ooh, lacey skirt.

You could sell this in Anne Summers
afterwards, you know.

♪ La la la la la. ♪

It's finished.

We will go with it.

Just take that off, mate,
you don't need that.

Hey, everyone, one minute left!

It's annoying, that's too big.

That is it. It's fab.

Nightcaps off, dreamers -
it's time to get out of bed

and on to the catwalk.

ASMAA EXHALES

Done it!

The judges are going to have
a bit of a shock.

She started off with florals
and all happy, and now look at her.

They think I'm just
this ditzy floral girl.

I'm really not.

Ah! That is so cool.
I love those feathers.

Sorry, do you mind if I look
at them?

They've got, like,
little dark bits on them.

Oh, look at you, drama!

It's everything
I wanted from it, to be honest.

Um, it's just a dress, innit?

SHE LAUGHS

♪ Sweet dreams are made of this

♪ Who am I to disagree?

♪ I travel the world
and the seven seas

♪ Everybody's
looking for something... ♪

Eight garments inspired
by the Surrealist movement...

...fashioned in just five hours.

♪ Hold your head up,
keep your head up

♪ Movin' on

♪ Hold your head up
Movin' on

♪ Keep your head up
Movin' on

♪ Hold your head up
Movin' on

♪ Keep your head up
Movin' on

♪ Hold your head up
Movin' on

♪ Keep your head up... ♪

This is fascinating.

And obviously it's something
that means a lot to you.

It really does. Yes.

And I love how this is bright,
and this is dark,

and things are going on.

There was an awful lot of work
involved in creating that

kind of pleated effect,
and I think it's worked OK.

But you could've had
a dress in two halves

and just had that huge serpent,
which almost might have had more

impact and would've been
simpler to achieve.

I think, overall... Yeah.

...I love that you're
ambitious in your makes.

Sometimes there are smarter ways
to get the same result.

Yeah.

♪ Meet me in the sky
I'll be waiting for you

♪ And we can't hear
what they say

♪ Up in my air balloon,
air balloon, air balloon, ha!

♪ Sailing, sa-sailing
through the clouds now. ♪

I love it, Mia.

This dress couldn't feel
more cloud-like.

It feels like
it's floating on air,

which is exactly what
we need from a cloud.

You've created these huge pompoms
that you've attached, I think,

very nicely.

And your raindrops
are a really nice idea.

I would've really liked
way more raindrops,

cos then it would say "raindrops".

But I love the pompoms.

I think you've done
a really good job.

You've nailed it. Well done.
Thank you.

♪ Ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh, ah-ah

♪ Illusion

♪ Ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh, ah-ah

♪ Illusion

♪ Ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh, ah-ah

♪ Illusion

♪ Ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh, ah-ah

♪ Illusion... ♪

Lizzie, I quite like the way
you've created it

because you've got
the crin in the middle.

It's got that very
kind of jellyfish shape to it,

and there's definitely
a surrealness to the whole thing.

But I feel the eyes could
look more like eyes.

Even if you'd just put some
eyelashes on them or something.

Yeah. Just suddenly thought
they looked a bit like a fish.

Ah, yeah.

♪ Could it be that

♪ It's just an illusion

♪ Putting me back

♪ In all this confusion?

♪ Now... ♪

Well, this shirt is very surreal
and the colours are very graphic.

I would've preferred if the shirt
had the feeling that it was

floating in space. Giving us
that ribbon ruins the illusion.

But I think, overall, it's effective

and you get the weirdness

and the beauty together.

Well done. Thank you.

I think you've done enormous justice
to Kay Sage's painting,

which has this undulating Grecian
swirl of what could be fabric...

Yeah. ..and then these sharp
triangular, architectural elements.

Also, very difficult to attach quite
a slippery leather to the lace.

It was awful.

Well, in that case... It was awful.
...I'm very impressed.

You've done such neat top-stitching.

The whole thing
has a ton of drama.

I think it's very wearable.

It looks very cool, very modern.
I really like it.

Thank you.

♪ We only said goodbye with words

♪ I died a hundred times

♪ You go back to her

♪ And I go back to black

♪ Black... ♪

Well, this looks really punk
with the black.

I do think it's cool, actually.
Thank you. I like it.

It's a very clear reference from
that "Ceci n'est pas une pipe"

painting by Magritte, but I think
overall quite a simple garment.

Can't see the print from a distance.

OK.

♪ I, I, I, I

♪ I can't get over you

♪ I, I, I, I

♪ I, I, I, I... ♪

I do like the blue skirt,
which goes with the eye.

Fabulous.

Altogether, it's clearly very
surreal, but you spent a long time

quilting and the whole garment
is out of balance.

I would've preferred the eye
to be sitting vertically,

and it is far too long in the back.

I mean, I'm taking
a good four inches out.

It's just the fit of it
that slightly lets it down.

I think it's very successful, Tony.

We've got a very, very clear
connection between the original

tortured bride,
and the finished garment.

I think the fit is very good.
There is tons of drama in it.

But you've had a problem sewing
the velvet, it's puckering. Hmm.

I want to pull it, but I won't.
Have a go!

Do it, it might flatten it out!

No. No. Afraid not.

But, you know what? This is
Art Week, it's all about presence,

and this dress has got that impact.

Well done.

Cheers. Cheers.

The judges said some nice things.

I can make something with drama.

And they said that the fit's good.

Might be enough to save me.

I took a gamble today,

making my dress, because it was
so different to everybody else's.

It was a lot more simple
than everybody else's as well.

Hopefully it got me through.

I was a little bit
annoyed about it not fitting.

And maybe if I'd made it smaller
it would've sat flatter.

But today's done. I've got no idea
who's going to go home.

OWL HOOTS

Well, as we are technically
in art school,

shall we have a cider
and talk about our class mates?

Garment of the week,

are there a few people floating
around who've really impressed you?

Yes there are. Yeah. Mia's cloud
that floated down the catwalk.

And Fauve's incredible Kay Sage-
inspired leather and lace dress.

And also Asmaa's transformation.

She used the fabric and the painting
in a really creative way.

But who's a struggling artist?

Well we came into today with Tony W
sitting at the bottom of the pack.

Yeah. And I think he's delivered
a very good made-to-measure.

You definitely got
a sense of that tortured bride.

But also he needed one or two other
people above him to do not so well.

Vicki's fit wasn't quite
good enough, I don't think.

And actually Tony R,
quite a simple overall garment.

But, you know, did either of them
do significantly worse than Tony W?

Well as we're about
to graduate, I'm going to go

and have a quick clove cigarette
outside the art block.

See you in a bit!

If it was up to me, all
of your clothes would be on my wall.

Now, you know that artists often go
unappreciated in their own time.

But not one of you.

Patrick?

Our garment of the week
this week is...

THEY CLAP AND CHEER

Fauve!

Fauve, it's fabulous.

Such a fantastic referencing
of that surrealist movement

and such a beautiful
piece of clothing. Well done.

Thank you.

Well done, Fauve. Stop, please!

LAUGHTER

You're all superstars

and you all did fantastically
well in the made-to-measure.

And it's been such an exciting week
for us to watch all of your work

and it's really sad
to have one of you leave us.

But that person is...

Tony W.

Don't hug me!
No, we're going to hug you!

You know I'm going to hug you, man,
I'm sorry.

I'm, I'm not,
I'm not getting away with this.

Tony's not a hugger at all.

But I wasn't going to deny him
that one.

Well done, Tony. Thanks.

Yeah, it was a tough week.

Tony struggled in
the pattern challenge.

It wasn't bold enough, we didn't
see the contrast we wanted.

In the transformation, I think it
needed to be a bit more ambitious

and despite the fantastic
finishing made-to-measure,

one or two aspects of the sewing
let Tony down.

It wasn't enough to keep him in.

It does mean a lot to have been here

because it's the thing that actually
started me, my sewing journey.

Leaving today, Patrick
and Esme liked the garment.

The Sewing Bee is a good
learning point for me

that actually I can do more than
I sometimes think I can.

Hopefully the kids in class,
they'll be proud of what I've done.

You do go home on a high.
You're brilliant.

Well done, Fauve. Awesome.
Thank you.

That's a dream come true.

Literally a dream come true
to get Garment of the Week.

It's just, "Tick, I'm done,
I'm happy, I can go home. Ta-ra.

"Arrivederci!" It's definitely
boosted my confidence,

so I'm going to believe
in myself going forward.

Next time...

THEY CHEER
Cute! It's children's week.

♪ Down, down, baby,
down in the sewing room. ♪

The sewers make dragon
dressing gowns...

Oh! Just dislocated
the child's arm.

...jazz up denim jackets...

Ooh, disco jellyfish!

...and create cute occasion wear...

You look amazing!

Who will hopscotch to victory...

Do you like it? Yeah.

...and who will end up...

Whoa!
There's something wrong with it!

...on the naughty step?

It's just a shame
it does look too big.