A well-made knife is an
essential tool in any kitchen.
Having a sharp blade
can be the difference
Between a perfect meal
and a culinary nightmare.
No matter
how expensive the knife is,
It will dull with use.
A high-quality sharpening steel
Can restore any knife
to its former glory.
Professional-grade sharpening
steels have an oval shape.
The shape provides more surface
area for efficient sharpening
And allows pro chefs
To hone their blades
frequently as they work.
The manufacturing process
begins with a machine
That quickly cuts rods
of oval steel.
From handle to tip,
The finished sharpening steel
will be 12.5 inches.
A custom-made lathe
grips the rods
And guides them
inside a cutting area.
The lathe rounds off one end
to fit inside the handle.
It sprays the steel with cooling
liquid to prevent overheating
During the cutting process.
Next, they use a device
called a drawing machine.
Ultra-fine teeth
Scrape the steel to create
an abrasive sharpening surface.
The grain of the abrasions
Runs parallel to the length
of the steel.
The steel is still soft enough
for a stamping machine
To punch in the company logo.
In an oven,
they heat the steel rods
To 1,500° fahrenheit.
Then, a machine dips the rods
in a pool of saltwater,
To harden them.
The sharpening steel
Is now 20% harder than
the average kitchen knife.
A worker dips the components in
a series of baths to clean them.
Next, a machine
with multiple nozzles
Blasts sand
onto the sharpening steels.
The sand cleans off
the residue left over
From the production process
And prepares the steel
for chrome plating.
The chrome plating protects
the surface from rust.
An enormous industrial-
strength dishwasher
Cleans the sharpening steels.
Then, workers conduct
a quality-control inspection
Of the abrasive
sharpening surfaces.
The sharpening steels
Have been changed
from their original oval shape.
Using a set of high-speed,
Specially calibrated
sanding belts,
A preprogrammed robot smooths
and shapes the steel.
The final piece has
a polished and rounded look.
A grinding machine
carefully tapers the metal
To give the steel
its sword-like shape.
It takes more than 50 steps
to create a sharpening steel.
A machining tool
drills and taps
The rounded end
of the sharpening steel.
This creates a threaded hole
for attaching a handle.
The handle includes a section
that folds down,
Allowing it to double as a hook.
A worker applies glue
and installs two rivets
To hold the wood section
of the handle in place.
The wood handle is carved out of
a 100-year-old oak wine barrel.
A worker carefully
sands the edges of the handle,
Ensuring a smooth grip.
Another worker applies
a protective coating of wax
To the wood handle.
A worker installs the third
and final rivet.
It bears the company's logo.
They install this rivet last
So it's not damaged
during the finishing process.
After a final cleaning,
The sharpening steels are ready
to be packed up and shipped out.
It takes a lot of slicing,
chopping, and dicing
To make a great meal, but,
with a good sharpening steel,
Cutting is never dull.
♪♪
♪♪
Environmental laws
require many industries
To monitor groundwater
for contamination.
An engineering firm
is usually hired
To collect the groundwater
samples for testing.
Some firms collect samples
using a bladder pump.
It's a small device that pumps
water using pressured air.
It's called a bladder pump
because the flexible tube inside
Works like a human bladder
connected to a catheter.
When compressed, it forces the
groundwater out of the pump
And into the sample
collection container.
The pump is made
from polyethylene
Because it's flexible and inert.
The plastic is immune to
chemical or biological reactions
That could contaminate
the water sample.
The extruder melts
the polyethylene pellets
And forces the liquid
through a tube-shaped eye.
Then, it uses cold water
to cool and solidify the poly.
This produces a 1-inch tube.
A razor cutter slices
the tube into either
Depending on the pump size.
They use a different eye
To produce a wider pvc plastic
tube for the pump's housing.
This tube goes
on a computer-guided lathe,
Which cuts threads on the ends.
The same lathe works
with a computer-guided mill
To shape the pump's top cap.
It's also made from pvc plastic.
They make the pump's bottom cap
and bladder cap the same way.
The lathe also carves
a solid rod of stainless steel
Into a small disc-shaped weight.
The weight helps the pump sink
in the water
And collect the samples.
A technician preps the weights
for engraving.
He sprays them to hide
their shiny surface.
Without this masking,
the laser
Would bounce off the surface,
instead of penetrating it.
He loads the weights into
The computer-guided engraving
machine, then starts it up.
The laser engraves the name
of the manufacturer,
The pump's model number,
serial number,
And other product information.
♪♪
When the engraving is complete,
he separates the weights
And washes off the coating
with water.
Next, they make
the air supply line.
They mix 2% concentrated
blue polyethylene pellets
With 98% colorless ones.
They use the same extruder
as before
To create a narrow tube;
As well as an opaque
polyethylene tube,
For the pump's discharge line.
Then, they combine
the air supply
And water discharge tubes
with a heat-bonding machine.
It bonds them
in 6-inch intervals.
This lets engineers in the field
Cut the tubes
to the length they need.
Now, it's time to assemble
the bladder pump.
They fit the top of the bladder
Into a cap that has
a hollow center rod.
They place an o-ring seal
around another cap
And attach that cap
to the bottom of the bladder.
The o-ring will prevent water
from leaking out of the pump
And air from seeping in.
They insert a ball-shaped
valve in the top cap.
Then, they attach a hose bar for
connecting the discharge line.
They insert the bladder
into the pump's housing.
They connect an air supply
hose barb
Next to the discharge hose barb.
They place the weight
on the bottom cap of the pump
And insert another
ball-shaped valve.
They complete the pump
by attaching the bottom cap
To the bottom of the bladder.
When engineers submerge
the pump in a well,
Water enters through the bottom
and slowly fills the bladder.
They drive compressed air
into the pump housing
Via the air supply tube.
The pressurized air surrounds
the bladder, squeezing it.
This forces the lower ball
To close off the bottom
of the pump,
Trapping the water sample
inside the bladder.
The trapped water moves the ball
at the top of the pump,
Which clears the exit route.
Then, they send bursts of air
to the pump in timed intervals.
Each burst squeezes the bladder.
This gradually forces the water
sample to the top of the pump.
It's then collected
in a container on the surface.
♪♪
♪♪
It helps to have a flat surface
When you're ironing
wrinkled clothing.
The first ironing boards
Were simple wooden panels
held up at ends by chairs.
Folding legs were added
in the 1860s,
Creating a standalone structure
That could be collapsed
for easy storage.
♪♪
This professional ironing board
Is equipped
for every pressing need.
Its heated surface
Ensures that every garment
is expertly steamed or ironed.
Each board starts
with a hand-drawn design
That includes
detailed measurements.
They upload the information
to a computer.
Computer-guided tools
Cut the ironing board surface
out of steel.
Then, they drill 300 vent holes.
A machine melts and molds
plastic under pressure.
It creates 20 different parts,
including this control panel.
The plastic
is a strong polycarbonate
That won't deteriorate when
exposed to the heat of an iron.
The molded components include
The ironing board's
base structure
And numerous body parts
and attachments.
A worker assembles
the fan's motor.
The fan will blow the fabric
for easy steaming
Or suction the fabric
to keep it on the board.
He secures the fan shaft
to the base plate and motor.
He flips the structure over
And installs a small fan
for cooling the motor.
He fastens the cooling fan
to the shaft with a clip.
Next, he inserts
a metal base plate
In the ironing board's
molded plastic housing.
He places an electric coil
underneath the ironing surface.
He bends the tabs
on the plate around the element
To secure it in place.
He then makes the makes
the electrical connections.
He installs the perforated
steel plate on top.
Then, he screws the plate
to the rest of the unit.
♪♪
He flips the ironing board
over and tucks the fan
Into a molded plastic slot
in the back.
He screws the fan to the rim
of the plastic compartment.
♪♪
He transfers the ironing table
to a rack until the next step.
When the worker's ready,
He places the central body part
over the fan and electronics.
He attaches the wired
control panel
To the end of the ironing board.
He drives large pins into it to
secure it to the molded casing.
He connects the the control
panel to the fan,
The heating element,
the thermostat,
And the temperature sensors.
He tucks the wiring
into the central body part.
He attaches a latch
for accessing the mechanics
Of the ironing board.
Then, he screws a molded
plastic side plate
To the central body part.
He closes the control panel,
Encasing the mechanics
of the ironing board.
He secures the legs
to the central body part
Using a pivot mechanism.
In this professional
ironing board,
The work surface folds
and unfolds.
The legs will remain stable
at all times.
He secures the legs with
the molded plastic structure.
He turns the knob
on the pivot mechanism
To set the board's height.
He peels the protective plastic
Off of the perforated
steel structure.
♪♪
He fits an elastic cover snugly
over the ironing board.
It's made of breathable,
synthetic fabric
And foam padding.
The worker tests
the ironing board.
He sets plastic-covered pods
on the ironing board.
He activates the blow function
and the plastic expands.
Then, he activates
the suction option
And the plastic collapses.
The tests confirm that the
ironing board works properly,
Ensuring that these ironing jobs
will go more smoothly.
♪♪
Kayaking with a proper paddle
can make the experience
More comfortable
and more efficient
For a longer period of time.
Paddle designs are different
for flatwater kayaking,
Versus whitewater kayaking.
Within both those categories,
There are many different blade
shapes and shaft designs.
This is a premium
touring kayak paddle.
It's designed to be stiff,
strong, and very lightweight.
The angle of the blades
is called the feather angle.
Kayakers can adjust
the feather angle
For wrist comfort
and aerodynamics.
The first step is to make
the mold for the blade.
It's comprised
of many complex parts.
Each one is shaped out of
a block of copper or steel.
♪♪
This is a high-precision
process.
Producing a mold
for just one blade style
Costs about $100,000.
Once all the components
are ready,
Workers assemble the mold.
The corners
have long alignment pins.
The pins guide the mold
As it opens and closes
on the injection press.
Workers mount the mold
on the press,
Then load transparent nylon
pellets into the hopper.
They position a black
reinforcement rib
Inside the blade mold.
The press closes and injects
hot, melted nylon
Into the mold cavity.
Then, the press cools the mold
and solidifies the nylon.
The mold opens and ejects
the kayak blade,
Which is now reinforced with
the newly incorporated rib.
This entire molding process
takes 3 minutes.
The press only molds
a preliminary shape.
Next, they clamp the blade
to a template
And start up
a computer-guided router.
The computer contours the blade
to its final shape.
♪♪
Here's the blade
before and after this step.
The shaft is made
of molded carbon fiber.
Each paddle is comprised
of two connecting sections.
Workers prepare a right and left
shaft piece for each paddle.
They saw each one
to the required length
And cut orientation slots
in the end.
The orientation slots correctly
position the piece,
Relative to the feather angle
adjustment mechanism.
They roughen the surface area
with a belt sander
To optimize adhesion.
They apply a fifth layer
of epoxy glue...
Then insert the shaft
into the blade.
♪♪
They wipe away the excess,
Then let the glue dry
for 24 hours.
Next, they assemble the feather
angle adjustment mechanism.
They place a nylon
retaining cap on a spring
And insert the spring
into a nylon housing.
They flip the assembly over
And put it into
an ultrasonic welder.
Then, they place
another retaining cap
On the other end of the spring.
The welder uses high frequencies
to generate heat.
The heat melts the nylon
and quickly fuses
The second retaining cap
to the housing.
They attach the part
to the rest of the paddle.
Then, they glue it
into the right shaft piece.
They wipe away the excess glue
And attach the final section
of the adjustment mechanism.
They wrap tape around the
mechanism to contain the glue.
After the glue has dried,
They connect the right
and left sides of the paddle
With the feather
angle adjustment.
They put it
in the lock position,
Which is indicated
by a white line.
They apply a decal
denoting the feather angles;
Then, a second decal,
illustrating how to select them.
A third decal with the brand
name goes on the blade.
Adjusting the feather angle
is simple.
First, you push the left and
right shafts toward the middle
And rotate them
to the desired angle.
Then, you pull them apart,
To lock it
in the new blade position.
Some paddle models do not have
feather angle adjustments,
However, every kayak paddle
this company produces
Separates into two pieces,
to make transporting easier.
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