03x05 - Chapter V - Family Business

[bunniefuu]

[TV static drones]

[bright tone]

[dramatic music]

♪ ♪

- Life is so precious.

This time on Earth
is so short.

It's challenging
to make the good choices.

After Eddie, I was, for lack
of a better word, an as*h*le

that I would not
want to be around.

For me not to be
the best version of myself,

my family deserves
better than that.

- Everyone, go!

Wait!

- The goal this year is just
to disconnect and get away

from everything and provide an
environment for our children

to grow up in.

We've looked all
over the world.

I mean, I was looking
at Costa Rica.

I was looking
for something in Florida.

- One could be my suitcase!

- We found the best
school for them

to share with them
what's actually

really important in life.

The big move was, pshht,

from Hawaii to Italy.

[upbeat music]

- Buongiorno!

- After a lot of research,
I found the school.

And it's a forest school.

So they spend a lot of time
outside, survival skills,

but at the same time,
art and creativity.

There's no technology.

There's no iPads.

There's no computer.

It's this community
of families from all

over the world who just have a
vision of something different.

So we decided,
why not try it out?

♪ ♪

I've got a couple second
thoughts, mainly around,

what am I doing taking
Garrett to this small village

in the middle of nowhere?

- I need to get my princess
dress from the wash.

- It's going to be a learning
experience for everyone.

♪ ♪

It's not about
changing his life

or getting him to retire
from surfing or become

a grandpa, whatever.

I just want
to clean out our life,

like, remove the unnecessary.

♪ ♪

- Barrel's thriving.

Theia's thriving.

Fe is most like me.

So watch out, world.

It's incredible.

I wake up in the morning,
all I think about is them.

In Hawaii, I wake
up in the morning,

all I think about is
the yard or the waves.

- It's not what was missing
in Hawaii and Nazaré.

It's what's missing in Italy.

And what's missing
in Italy is distraction.

I think he is craving some
sort of peace inside of him,

inside of his mind.

He does want to be
able to be still

and be content being still.

- You guys want to
come to the wave pool?

There's a wave in Milan.

- Here we are,
new versions of ourselves.

Shed another onion
layer, yeah, Garrett?

- Yeah.

- I really don't know
how Garrett will do.

Only time will tell.

It could go either way.

And I actually think it'll
probably go either way a lot.

♪ ♪

- Ah.

[soft music]

♪ ♪

- This season, I just
felt like maybe it's time

to not just focus
on Nazaré and,

sort of, look outside the box.

And there's a lot of ocean, and
there's a lot of places to go.

This year, I've actually got
infrastructure and equipment

that I can call my own.

I've got skis, which,
you know, they're mine.

It was getting to the
point where it's just,

I can't keep
borrowing Garrett's stuff.

I have to, like,
be completely self-sufficient.

Well, it's
actually quite cool.

Like, being a bit
freer, you know?

[soft music]

Garrett phoned me and said

he's moving to Italy.

I was like, really?

Like, not, sort of,
questioning, but, like, why?

But I kind of get it.

Like, it was for the family.

But then it was also to be
obviously closer to here.

He was, sort of,
saying that he could

do strike missions easier, and
it's, like, less traveling.

And he wouldn't have to
drag the whole family over

if he was coming.

It was like, OK,
possibly could be good.

♪ ♪

For me, I'm starting
in a good place,

like, starting
where I want to be.

♪ ♪

- [sighs]

It's nice to be here.

Beginning of the season.

It's always exciting.

There's always, like,
some butterflies.

It's the best just
to see everybody again.

Brother.

Good to see you, bro.

It's this eternal moment with
the lighthouse and the church.

Waves.

♪ ♪

It's funny not
having Garrett here.

It feels a lot different.

I'm always, like, riding
the Garrett wave, you know?

It's just like, yeah, come on.
Gotta be here at this time.

Like, this is where we're
going to be out and everything.

And-- and it's good
because I don't have

to think about anything or
make decisions other than like,

oh, either I'm
going, or I'm not.

And now it's like, oh,
I'm putting stuff together,

you know?

♪ ♪

It's like a little
test of, how--

how much have we learned
since he's been gone?

♪ ♪

- I would hope that
they all actually go out

and practice without me there.

Because if I'm there,
I'm going to drive,

and nobody's going to drive.

They're all going
to get waves,

and nobody's going
to get better.

So it's much better
if I'm not there.

- So now the forecast--

- How was it?
- Fun.

- Good?
You got some good ones, huh?

- Yeah.
- I saw.

Wonderful.

How you doing?

- I'm doing good.

- Oh, my gosh.

Oh, look at this baby.

- So young.

- How long?
Six?

- 6 1/2.
- 6 1/2.

- 6 1/2.
- Three months more.

Three months more.

- Yeah.

- Are you excited?

- Yeah, yeah, yeah.

I want to run.
[laughs]

- [speaking Portuguese]

- Hey!

[speaking Portuguese]

- [grunts]

[grunts]

[laughter]

[speaking Portuguese]

[laughs]

[chatter]

[upbeat music]

♪ ♪

♪ ♪

[soft music]

♪ ♪

- Oh, oh, oh!

You see the pink
mountain, Barrel?

Check this out.

Whoa!

Frost everywhere.

This is like when I walked up
to Nazaré for the first time.

Ta-da!

- Oh, wow.

Wow!

- Right?

- Look at that, Theia.

- You like it?

- It's pretty awesome.

- Have you seen
the Alps before?

- No, I never seen
the Alps before.

It looks pretty nice.

- Fe.

- Titus Waimea McNamara,
my firstborn son.

The main reason I was in Italy
was to be with my family.

Titus came to visit us.

And it was super special,
really good quality

time where I could connect.

- Hey.

Hey.

- You don't want
the white stuff?

- No.

- Oh.

- What?

It's really nice over here.

It's a lot slower
than home, even.

[chuckles]

[chatter]

My dad's always, like,
battled to balance

family life with work life.

So I think it's good for my
dad to be here, honestly.

It's like-- it's really
quiet, and he can focus

on the family a lot more.

But then he's also really
close to everywhere.

I think it's better for him.

- We're getting
lumber delivered.

I think we'll be
good for the winter.

But let's see what they're--

not sure exactly how
much is in that thing.

Holy moly.

Here, we don't rush.

We do what we can when we can.

And then there's
always another day.

My whole life, I've
always rushed everything.

Time to slow down.

Enjoy the big pile of wood.

Enjoy the view and the trees
and the leaves falling.

♪ ♪

Being in Italy
has 100% 360'd me.

It's incredible.

- Isn't it 180?

- 360 for me.

I go all the way or nothing.

[chuckles]

♪ Heading to school
on a bicycle, bicycle ♪

♪ Want to ride my bicycle,
want to ride my bike ♪

Nicole, I can do all that.

- At this point,
I've been with Garrett

for, what, 13 years?

It used to be connected.

And I kind of know his mojo.

I see him good for a week,
maybe two weeks.

But I'm not going
to believe it until I've seen

a solid month
of changed behavior.

In a perfect world,
Garrett sheds his armor,

opens his heart, and becomes
connected to his true self,

to the beauty that is Garrett.

- Cotty?

- Are you driving?

Have you driven
in Morocco before?

- No.

- There's-- there's stops
every freaking hour.

They stop you every hour.

- Just make sure you
have all your paperwork.

And you're all convoying?

- Yeah, yeah.

- Amazing.

Amazing.

- So what's going on?

- Cotty, Lucas--

Chumbo, Lucas Fink,
and Justine are

all driving to...

Morocco to go surf
the new 100-foot wave.

Let's see.
[laughs]

- And do you think
you're going?

- I don't know.

If the forecast holds,
then I'll talk with Nicole,

and we'll figure it out.

[dramatic music]

♪ ♪

- Well, Friday looks amazing.

- Yeah.

- You said something about
going to surf some slabs,

or you going to go
out to the big wave?

- No idea.

Are you going to come?

- I don't know.

I'm going to keep
a close eye on it.

I'll see if the
forecast holds, man.

- OK, yeah, I got you, man.

Yeah, yeah, I know the score.

So no stress.

He's doing one of those might
come, might not scenarios.

- 21.

That's huge.

Sunday is the big one.

Like, could be


All right, so I've been
watching Morocco for a while.

Morocco is a
uncharted territory.

There is a 100-foot wave
out there, guaranteed.

Wind is good.

It's a monster.

Everybody, oh,
the swell is coming.

Come on down.

It's going to be huge.

- If we were in Hawaii and he
said he's going to Morocco,

I would say, no way.

But if we're in Italy and he's
like, oh, I'm going to Morocco

for two days, I'll be
back in a couple days,

I'll be like,
OK, see you later.

- Yeah.

- You see the latest forecast?

- No.

- All right.

- But Nicole's already
booked my ticket,

so she's making me go.

- [laughs]

And you're not far away.

f*ck, it's, like, Italy.

Like, it's not like
you're coming from Hawaii.

- Yeah.

And that's why I'm here,
so I can do this.

So-- besides the kids
and everything else.

It's-- it's huge.
It's perfect.

- Right, right.

- All right, buddy.
Love you.

- All right, man.
Love you.

- Bye.
- See you in a bit.

[laughter]

- That's why I'm here,
so I can do this.

Oh, obviously,
because of the kids.

[laughter]

- So, do you want
to go to Morocco?

I'll show you
a picture of the wave

that we're going to go surf.

- Whoa.

That wave is crazy.

- So clean.

- It looks pretty nice.

[upbeat music]

♪ ♪

- It was the first
trip I've done

with, like, Lucas and Chumbo
and all the Brazilian guys.

And it was, like, foot
down as fast as we could

with two jet skis on the back.

And that was,
like, the mission.

- [speaking Portuguese]

- My driver just
threw the jet ski

on the side of the drive-thru.

[chatter]

- What just happened?

Everyone helped,
all the poor staff.

Yeah, it was a good vibe.

It was fun.

Made it a lot of fun.

- [speaking Portuguese]

[horn blowing]

[chatter]

- We're in Morocco.

♪ ♪

[chatter]

- We are in Morocco.

[chatter]

Right here, eh?

- I think it's down here.

[chatter]

- Love it.

I love it.

It's so-- so rad.

This is what it's about, innit?

Definitely.

- I'm getting excited.

I want to get in the water.

[laughter]

The swell's going to drop fast.

So we got to get
it while we can.

We're about 20 minutes away.

- OK, I'll just send you
right now the location.

- OK.
- Let's go.

- Awesome.
Thank you.

- See you.
- Bye.

That was Jerome.

Jerome's the guy who's putting
the whole trip together

and the guy who discovered
most of the waves here.

- Jerome and his team,
they've been

surfing this spot for, like,
at least 10 years, maybe more.

They know that coastline
like the back of their hands.

- It looks very,
very promising.

Beautiful, perfect little wave.

But the icing on the cake
is that we got Titus here.

He's fired up.

We're all fired up.

My son, Titus, has been
surfing since he was four.

♪ ♪

- I take it like
a big roller coaster.

- Titus is a soul surfer.

He just loves surfing.

He surfs for fun.

Nobody pushing him.

Big, small, he will surf.

- It's all about just
loving being out there.

And I'm not having a good time,
then why am I out there,

you know?

- When he was young, we had
a really good relationship.

I took him every day.

It's been a little
challenging here and there.

- We've been a little distant
since my parents got divorced.

He was also, like,
in Portugal, too.

That's when he
broke the record.

I seen what he went through

and everything
that's happened.

It all worked out
for the best, I think.

But I didn't see
much of him then.

So going on that trip,
we could actually hang out.

[upbeat music]

♪ ♪

- It was good to see
Garrett excited to be

surfing the points.

And that first day,
he actually surfed a lot.

♪ ♪

- It was a good
session for everybody.

Just have a good
welcome in Morocco.

- Yeah.
- So good, like.

You got some good ones?

- Yeah, yeah.

- It feels good.

Like, I feel like
the team is all connected.

Team is all, like, having fun.

[phone line trilling]
- Hi.

- No, it's nice.

- A swell in Morocco.

- No!
- And it's just us.

- [fussing]

It's tough.

You know, before kids,
Garrett and I

traveled everywhere together.

We were never apart.

No? You want to watch "Coco"?

And then you have three kids.

Do you want something?

Ay-yi-yi.

- [screaming]

And now it is a circus.

I'm by myself, alone.

Like, it's pure chaos.

I only could find one cleat.

- Whose are these?

- Yours.

This is all I could find.

- These aren't mine.

- It's a lot when
your husband's a surfer

and you don't know how long
they're going to be gone.

The role of the mother
is no easy task.

[soft music]

♪ ♪

- [speaking French]

[laughs]

Oui.

Yes.

- All these canisters.

- We are going out--

I think it's 3 miles
from here.

We're going to use half
a tank to get out there.

- They keep saying the drive
is going to be longer.

[laughs]

Could be 40 minutes.

Could be two hours.

- The big day comes, and it
became apparent that we're

actually driving quite far.

And we ended up
literally ratchet-strapping

petrol cans
to the skis for each ski.

- Perfect.
- You better-- hang on.

[chatter]

I was like, how's
this going to work?

- Good morning.

We're going
in the water right now.

Look what I found.
Look what I found.

- That somebody's house?

- No, this is at the harbor.

Look, Fe Fe.

- Cotty's always nervous.

From the moment he wakes
up till this moment,

he's, like, thinking about,
you know, radio, da, da.

Do I have everything?

- We actually ended up having
to, like, crane and literally,

like, picking the skis
up with, like, slings

and, like, sort of,
slinging it into the water.

- Thank you, Mother Earth,
for all you provide us,

family, friends,
new opportunities.

- Goddess of the ocean
likes honey.

She likes sweet things.

- Yes.
- Here you go, baby.

Thank you.

It was only a kilometer
off the beach,

but it was two hours
from the harbor.

[dramatic music]

♪ ♪

Two hours, wah-ah, just,
like, amping, all amping.

Whoo-hoo!

And it's all jagged
cliffs the whole way.

The whole way, we're looking
at waves, looking at waves,

looking at waves.

♪ ♪

We get there, we pull up.

It's not that big,
but it's clean, and it's--

it's just smooth,
beautiful waves.

And it's magical.

It's magical.

♪ ♪

- We loaded the fuel
canisters onto the RIB.

That was our, sort of,
like, floating gas station.

You know what,
it worked really well.

It was a proper,
like, adventure.

♪ ♪

Not only did I score,
but everyone got some points.

♪ ♪

It wasn't perfect,
but there was a couple gems.

- Cotty is surfing incredible.

Man on fire.

He's just power surfing.

♪ ♪

- Garrett towed me
to a couple good waves.

But on the big day, it
wasn't quite perfect enough.

And I just think it wasn't
really worth the risk for him.

- Coming into this season,
my desire to get barreled

stayed with me.

But I don't feel ready
to ride big waves.

I definitely love driving.

I have a lot of fun
just being in the mix.

I was really there to get
Titus and Cotty waves.

Titus didn't have
to ride every wave,

didn't have to get
the biggest wave.

Just was out there
for the experience.

He didn't even
have to get a wave.

But he wanted a few.

So I got him some.

He was, like, amazing.

He caught a couple bombs.

♪ ♪

- Jerome's son, Liam,
just 14 years old.

And the kid just went for it.

Got a huge wave, like,
such a perfect one

bowing, barreling behind him.

Made his dad so proud.

Jerome cried.

When we live those moments
in the water,

when you see family,

I just think about
my son and my daughter.

Can't wait to see them
driving a ski for me

or getting some waves with me.

- The responsibility
of putting

your child on a wave is--

it's, like, so fulfilling.

But while you're putting
them on and they're riding,

it's like, oh, sh*t,
what did I do?

And then when they kick out,
you're like, ah!

Ch-ch.

♪ ♪

[soft music]

♪ ♪

- Down, down.
- All right, man?

- Yeah, thank you, mate.

I do appreciate it.
Thanks for having us.

Do you know, there was so
much power and so much speed,

I think I went the fastest I
ever went on my board today.

Another unicorn, you know?

It's like, how many places
in the world are like this?

- That was my first real
surf trip with my dad.

Surfing is like my
church and my playground.

It's where I go to have fun.

It's where I go to let
go of all my problems.

And it's brought me and my
dad a little closer together.

Something that we share,
that we love.

Definitely, like,
the best wave of my life.

[laughter]

- He's like, one of the
best days of my life.

[laughter]

- That was sick.

- I can tell he wants
me to be proud of him,

and I'm so proud of him.

I just really love
having Titus around.

- The best trip
of my life, for sure.

- Ah, that's it.

I know.
It was incredible.

I'm so glad I went.

♪ ♪

[upbeat music]

♪ ♪

- Mama?

- Yeah?

We are going to the
airport to see Dad!

- Dada!

Dada!
- Dada!

♪ ♪

Where's Dad?

Where is he?

I see him.

Do you want to get
out and say hi?

- Dada!
- Get him!

- Dada!

♪ ♪

- How are you feeling?

- I have to say,
this was the hardest

alone time I've ever had.

I think Fe, she has
a lot of teeth coming in.

She hasn't, like, wanted
me to put her down.

It was bad.

Yeah, it was the
hardest alone ever.

What's up, Fe-Fe?

♪ ♪

- One of my favorite things
about being a surfer

is how it gets me up
early in the morning,

gets me up out of bed, and gets
me outside so I can witness

beautiful moments like this.

All that free energy before
everyone wakes up in the dark,

it's nice to be up for that.

Wow, I think I'm the
first one at the slip.

This is a really big
moment for me, actually.

All the jet skis are here.

Alamao's nowhere in sight.

Yeah, and, you know,
I've left people waiting

around at times in life.

So I'm getting served a little
bit of karma here, I guess.

[laughs]

I'm here, you know,
supporting the newcomers,

helping Polly out.

I feel like I don't know
anything about boards.

But I know a little bit more

just from being
around Garrett.

One of the pieces
to the magic formula

is, like, riding a really
sharp edge almost halfway

up the board, actually.

I'm feeling the call to step
into more of a leadership role.

I mean, I still got
the OGs who I look up to.

But as we see, they're
not always around now.

I've been gifted so much
through Garrett, Alamao, Cotty,

like, just from
Nazaré in general

or from the ocean
that I'm really feeling

the balance coming
through of, like, how can

I offer that more to people?

- Sick.

My guy.
Thank you, bro.

- Big man.

- CJ's always very calm
and very collected.

He's kind of like the most

soul surfer of them all,
right?

- I tell you--

- OK.
- [laughs]

- Pretty well.

- Nice session.
- Yeah, totally.

It felt good.
Good teamwork.

- I feel 100% connected
everywhere these days.

Just, you know, from afar.

[soft music]

♪ ♪

Morocco was amazing.

But I'm so happy
to be back here in Italy.

I've been on the beach
my whole life.

And I've been chasing
storms my whole life.

I wanted to stop here
in Italy and only

do one- to two-day trips.

That would be a perfect world.

[chatter]

- Since I met Garrett,
we've only had

one Thanksgiving in America.

But this year, it feels
more homey than usual.

I'm super happy about our
choice to move to Italy.

Like, this is
the most cohesive family

time we've had in our entire
life since we've had children.

This is the first time we've
really been a tight unit.

We've all made close friends.

All of our emotional
needs are being met.

- Buon appetito.

- So happy.

I think the happiest I've
ever been in my life.

It's for real.

Community, children.

I'm just happy.

- Oh!

- Soccer.

- Well, you are my thing.

Somehow I can block
the chaos out.

No, thanks for
bringing us here.

I really like it here.

I'm happy.

- I love you.

- I'm going to get a plate.

[soft music]

♪ ♪

- After Morocco,
I was feeling that I

want to be back in Brazil.

I was putting the most time
I can at home with my family

just to, whenever I leave,
I can leave with full love

and do my best, you know?

[speaking Portuguese]

It is a tough situation.

But at the same time,
I cannot forget my career.

And I need to make happen.

You know, like, I need to work.

I need to work 24/7
to make happen.

- [speaking Portuguese]

- Aww.
- Aww.

- [speaking Portuguese]

♪ ♪

- We went to the Alps

with Justine and do
a bit of snowboarding.

And we've kind of had a couple
of days to, sort of, relax,

I guess.

And that was good.

It really put my
nerves at ease.

And, yeah, it was good fun.

You do feel like you've
always got to keep moving

or keep flying all
over the world.

You know, sometimes you just
got to slow down and enjoy it.

But sometimes it's just
hard to plan in advance.

You know, like, there'll
always be a swell, always.

- Andrew's leaving tomorrow.

- I'm sorry?

- Andrew's leaving tomorrow.

["O Come, All Ye Faithful"
playing]

[chatter]

- Whoa!

- We got new snowboards
for everybody.

And we are going
snowboarding tomorrow.

- What is it?
- Barrel, look at your board.

- Let's see you ride it, B.

Do you like it?
- Yeah.

- Merry Christmas.

- Whoa.

Holy sh*t.

Yeah, that swell is huge.

Bonkers, like, beyond.

That's probably
going to accelerate

and just be some of the
biggest waves ever at Mavs.

If it wasn't Christmas,
I'd be coming.

I'd drive-- I'd
go to drive you.

I wish I could
be with you guys.

I'll be there.

I got 50 more years of this.

So I'll be there on
the next-- next one.

- Yeah.

OK.
I'll let you know.

- OK, bye.
- Thank you.

- Bye.

Cotty's going to Mavericks.

Big, big swell.

- It'd be fun to drive and
maybe catch a wave or two.

Yeah, I wouldn't
mind being there.

[yawns]

But I'm much--

I'm happy right here.

I'm happy right here.

[chatter]

[soft music]

♪ ♪

- I believe we all
come to these points

where we ask ourselves
this question

of, what matters to us?

Where are we going
to find our happiness,

our purpose, our meaning?

[soft music]

♪ ♪

Maybe we're a little
out of congruence.

We're not meant to be
stuck in anyone's spot.

We're meant to grow
and continue evolving,

like the water cycle,
like the waves coming in.

We get to choose
which waves we ride.

We get to choose where we
put our attention, where we

invest our time in our life.

♪ ♪

And we can be on a path
of mind and contemplation

or pursuing our career.

- 5.8 meters at 18 seconds.

That's a huge, huge,
huge swell.

- Or we can be the path
of the heart

and of building family

and holding on to gratitude

and appreciation in our lives.

♪ ♪

We can also be on the path of
flying free and disappearing

off into the ocean.

♪ ♪

So there's endless channels

and directions
that we could take.

And that's what
makes it so special,

is that nobody knows what
each person's going to do.

It's up to us.

We choose the story
moving forward.

♪ ♪

[bright tone]