09x08 - Fashion Icons Week

[bunniefuu]

Oh, hello, darlings. I couldn't see
you there. As you can tell,
it's Fashion Icons Week.

We're talking David Bowie jumpsuits,
John Travolta flares,

and the girl in the year above me

who pretended she had toilet paper
on her shoe on purpose.

So grab your hugest sunglasses
and your longest coat

and let's hit the red carpet.

Welcome to The Great British
Sewing Bee.

PARTY HORN PARPS

Last time...

Whassup?

...the sewers went back to the '90s...

...Asmaa finally won
Garment of the Week...

This was exquisite.

...but it was Lizzie who went the way
of tape cassettes and Tamagotchis...

You've got raw edge all the way
from there to there.

...and became the seventh sewer
to leave the Sewing Bee.

This time, it's the quarterfinal...

HE VOCALISES

...and the sewers face
a pattern challenge that's
the apex of elegance...

Bit of a struggle.

...keep it clean in
the transformation...

There's something quite naughty
about a waterproof pant. Oh, yeah!

...and take on a Made to Measure
that's so hot, it's smoking.

Oh, Mother!

Who will be a fashion icon
and who will be a fashion victim?

Hi, ladies.

Here we go again, again.

After seven weeks of always
the bridesmaid, never the bride,

it was a wonderful moment
to get Garment of the Week.

But this is a new week,
new challenges.

Quarterfinal -
that is just... I can't...

Ooh, quarterfinal!

Oh, this is weird.
This is so weird.

I'm still in a bit of denial
that I'm here.

Right, duh-duh.
Fashion icons this week.

I'm looking forward to seeing
what fashion icons are, is,

will be and stuff.

I could actually do
with ironing the shirt.

Iron the shirt you're wearing?

I have my own fashion.

I'm not good with real fashion.

Good morning. Come forward, sewers.

Firstly, huge congratulations on
making it to the quarterfinal.

Well done. This week,
we're celebrating fashion icons.

Timothee Chalamet, Rihanna,
Lady Gaga are all people

who don't reply to my letters,

but they're still very fashionable.

Esme, what are we doing
for the Fashion Challenge?

Right, tiptoe...

Do I dare turn it around? No.

Ooh! Oh, God, that's gorgeous.

This pattern is inspired
by fashion icon Audrey Hepburn

and the 1961 film
Breakfast At Tiffany's.

We are expecting it to be
the very epitome of elegance,

so it demands a luxury fabric.

You make the dress,
I'll scramble the eggs.

You have four hours for this
challenge, and your time starts now.

That's slinky, ain't it?

Luxury fabrics like satin will give
the sewers' dresses an opulent feel.

You want to feel glam in it.
You want it to be couture level.

But the glossier the fabric,

the more obvious
any mistakes will be...

I might go for the blue.

...and the harder it will be
to achieve a flawless finish.

I think I'm going to go
for this Tiffany Blue.

Concerned that it might be
a little bit too thin.

This is a really nice fabric,

but that doesn't mean it's
the right fabric.

It's no coincidence that I've picked
a fabric

that's close to what I'm wearing

so, if all else fails,
I'll just swap.

So what makes this dress so iconic?

Well, Audrey Hepburn
in Breakfast At Tiffany's.

She was a huge star.

This was a big film,

and I think it went, in the parlance
of today, viral.

It's so strikingly beautiful,

but will it be difficult
for them to sew?

We've got this quite unusual
crescent-shaped back

that joins in two parts.
That's really quite mind-bending.

So you sew it all in a roll

and then you pull it all
back out again,

what home sewers call
this "burrito" method.

Also, they need to attach the lining
to the waist seam,

otherwise it'll all go bumpy
underneath. Hmm.

And we want this zip
to be beautifully invisible.

We want the seam
to be perfectly flat.

We don't want any pulls or puckers.

It's a shame to wear this
to breakfast, really, isn't it?

You'd spill your beans down it.

I'm nervous a little bit
for this dress.

It's techy. I'm worried.

There's lots of different
shapes going on.

That is a long skirt.

This quick home sewer's homage
to Audrey Hepburn's classic look

is made from five pattern pieces
and a lining.

First, darts are sewn into
the front and lower back bodices

and linings attached.

The two back bodice sections are
joined using the burrito method,

encasing the lower in the upper
and pulling it through.

And then the front and back
are stitched together

at the shoulders
and along one side seam.

Next, the skirt sections
are gathered, joined and attached

to the bodice.

The invisible zip is inserted,
the lining caught in at the waist,

and finally, the dress
is hemmed and pressed.

Good morning.
Good morning.

Let's feel your satin fabric.

I think it definitely adds that
touch of luxury with that shine.

This is the lining.

Have you ever made anything similar?

Most of what I make are dresses.

I haven't made this
of this specific pattern.

I think the main thing is going
to be making sure that the neck

is not stretched,

the lining doesn't show,
the zipper's invisible...

What else is there?

All of those things, yeah.

Tony's also chosen a satin.

I think I'm scared myself a little
bit in regards to the fabric

choice because it is
moving around a lot.

It might hide the odd mistake,
though, the fact

that it's got a pattern
versus a plain satin.

Pattern wise, I aim
to do a placement.

So, yeah, rather than matching,
because I'm doing the line

in the same fabric as well.

Oh, are you? Yeah.
OK.

Vicky's also using the same fabric
for her outer dress and lining.

Because if the lining shows
through to the front,

it won't be as obvious.

Would you ever wear this style
of dress? No.

I like to be comfy, and I don't
think I could ever be comfy

in something that's not elastic!

I've got this system thing
going on because I'm going to use

the same fabric for the lining
as the outer as well to...

everything for my lining bits
are on that side of the tape

and everything for my outsider
on this side of the tape.

I don't want to mix it up,
just something I have actually done

in previous challenges.

So this is the front bodice
and I'm just going to sew on

the darts to it.

Hello.

I'm here for you to educate me
about fashion icons

that young people like.

Harry Styles always.

And he's a bit more androgynous.

Androgyny's in.

Yes, OK. Skirts on men,
trousers on women.

Trousers on women.
What if they want to find a husband?

Oh, my goodness!

Where are my glasses? Oh.

I'm just going to very gently
iron it.

And I really want to make sure
that my finish is spot-on today.

It'll be interesting, this,
it is very movey. Movey?

Moveable, moving around.

While the rest of the sewers
are grappling

with colourful slippery satins,

Lauren's taking a different tack.

I've gone for a black fabric.

It's got a slight texture to it.

I want to say like a peach.

It does have a sort of peach finish. Yeah.

And then I've gone for
a black lining as well.

Have you ever made
anything like this?

I've made elements of this.

I've made a similar bodice
with the darts.

I haven't put an invisible zip

in the position that this
invisible zip is in.

But you've done plenty
of invisible zips, generally?

I've done enough
to hopefully get by and remember

without having to watch a video, so. Yeah.

Here we go.
Come on then.

Have you seen Sara's dog?

He's so cute.

Ow! You OK, Tony?

Are you injured?
Do you need a surgeon?

I can just about chop off legs,
hands, fingers.

Because I can't do anything
with your boobies.

You're halfway through.

This is my concerned face.

The next part is where we attach
the crescent moon to the lower back.

I've always called it,
like, the burrito method.

What?
There's a wrong page in there.

You're putting part
of a Mexican recipe.

You roll up the bodice

in between the lining
and the main layer like this.

So my back piece is curled up
really small.

Trying to keep all that tucked up
and sew this edge.

And then unroll it
and then all the edges

will be all nice and hidden.

Moment of truth.

From that tiny hole, you have to...

It is fiddly

and it kind of feels like
it's not going to come out.

Bit of a struggle.

It's coming out.

Right, this looks like
it's a thing.

It's hard doing the burrito,

because once you've turned
it out, that's it.

Oh!

During that burrito thing,

I've got one piece
the wrong way round.

Because I'm using the same lining,
inside and outside,

what I've done wrong is, I've got
an edge stitching on the outside.

No fashion icon's perfect,

so why would their dress be?

Is that what you're going with,
is it?

Yeah.
Yeah? I'll let Esme know.

Nobody's perfect, guys.

Don't worry.

I'm sorry, Audrey.

I'm Audrey Hepburn.

Audrey Hepburn's timeless look
from Breakfast at Tiffany's

is one of her most celebrated.

But it was several years earlier
that her first on screen outfits

were created by
her favourite French couturier.

In 1953, Audrey Hepburn
was a budding young actor

who'd just landed
her second big Hollywood role

in the movie, Sabrina.

A key part of the story
was a kind of Cinderella

transformation of
Hepburn's character.

So Hepburn was sent to Paris to
the atelier of the young designer,

Hubert de Givenchy.

Givenchy loved simplicity and
was known for creating garments

that were delicate and chic.

And Sabrina went on to win the Oscar
for Best Costume Design.

But the story didn't
unfold smoothly.

When it came to acknowledging

the creative team behind
the film's costumes,

it was only the chief designer,
Edith Head, who was credited

for the work.

This has become one of Hollywood's
most enduring fashion controversies.

Edith Head claims that she created
the items from sketches

of Givenchy's pieces, but Givenchy
later claimed it was his actual

items that were worn in the film.

Hepburn was said to be so outraged
by the snub that she later demanded,

"Each time I'm in a film,
Givenchy dresses me."

And so a lifelong friendship
and creative partnership was born.

Givenchy created some of her most
memorable outfits,

both on and off screen, including
the iconic black dress she wears

in Breakfast at Tiffany's.

Isn't it wonderful?

One hour left.

Yeesh!

Now on to do the skirt.

We're talking fashion icons. Yes.

I happened to notice that
you're partial to a red soled shoe.

Maybe.

So, I was wondering, you know,

because there's a couple of Crocs
wearers in the room. Yes.

I mean, what would it take
to get you into a pair of Crocs?

If I painted the bottom of it...
I might do.

Oh, really?

I wear clogs in theatre,
but I have to.

They're pink
with butterflies on them!

I am pinning my bodice to my skirt,

just making sure it's all even.

It's important to line them up
correctly, just so that the seams

sit in the right place.

That bit, I don't love.

I've just caught the dress there.

So I'm just going to unpick...

Oh, right there.

Oh, that's so annoying.

They don't line up.

Oh, well, let's just carry it on.

I want to get an unpicker
as a tattoo.

Because it's the thing most relevant
to my sewing.

Half an hour left, everyone.

I am putting the invisible zip in.

Sometimes they turn out
a bit less invisible

than you want them to be.

I'm not the most confident
with invisible zips,

so, just stressing a little bit.

Putting an invisible zip in
using an invisible zip foot.

I've never used this foot before.

It's just learning how to use this.

I've talked to it sweetly.

Come on then. Yeah, that's fine.
It'll have to do.

Right, pray for me, pray for me.

Why is it not zipping?

I've done it wrong.

I don't know how to fix it.
We need to unpick it.

This is the only thing I can think
to do, is literally rip it out.

Ten minutes left!

Is it hand-stitching the lining in?

You hand stitch the sides
and the waist.

I'm just making it quite big.

And it'll just have to do.

You're supposed to hand stitch
the lining.

And I don't do that because
I've got a machine in front of me

that does that.

I've still got
to stitch around the waist.

And ten minutes isn't long enough,
so I'm just going to stitch

the lining down to the zip.

What I'm going to do is just tuck my
lining down in a couple of places

and then tell them
not to look inside.

Lauren, how's it going? Awfully.
What's happened? Can't sew!

What's this you putting in,
a little invisible zip? Yeah.

You couldn't do that
if you couldn't sew. Well...

Mostly catch my lining.

It's as concealed as
I'm going to get it.

Now, just the whole dress
to sew up. Whoo!

Five minutes left.

My heart's pumping, guys.

The hem is overlocked and then
top stitched with one fold.

If I do this, does it help?

Whee!

That's just what I need.

Just pressing this hem.

I've overlocked it.
I've not managed to finish it.

Nearly finished?

I will have a garment that has
all the elements in it, yes.

That's a very political answer.

It was like you've been caught doing
something that you shouldn't have.

Come on, baby.
Come on.

That's shocking.

One minute left.

OK, hang on, why am I pinning?

I'm just going to press it.

I've skipped the lining.

Basically I've skipped out
making a dress.

Look at that.

Put your dresses on
your mannequins, everyone.

Needles up, sewers,
breakfast is served.

♪ Moon river

♪ Wider than a mile... ♪

Five dresses inspired

by Audrey Hepburn
in Breakfast at Tiffany's,

created in just five hours.

Oh, so lovely.

I feel positively underdressed.

Judges, what do you think?

This was a difficult challenge,

and I think you've all done well,

from here, it looks like!

Mia.

It does look extremely good,
the bodice is very well handled.

It's flat.

It's lying nicely
over the shoulders.

The back is all correctly assembled,
very neatly sewn indeed.

It's slightly off at the waist,
the seams.

So at the top, it's not quite
lined up.

The zip is pretty near invisible.

Ah, you've hand-sewn the lining
to the dart, but not any further.

It's loose. Yeah.

I only got in halfway. Yes.

I think it's actually a very elegant
colour as well.

But the colour of the fabric has
definitely made our lives easier

because we can see every
wrinkle and bump and actually,

there aren't really very many
at all.

I'd say you've done a good job.

I like where you've placed
the flowers at the front.

I think that looks great
and it's pretty well pressed.

The front looks pretty good.

When we turn it around,

you've used the same fabric
for the lining

as you have for the outer fabric,
and because of that,

you've got confused.

That's why we've got
a row of stitching showing

on the outside that should be
on the inside.

The waist seams don't line up.

Yeah, now, the lining.

Looks like you've machined it in.

I think we asked you
to hand stitch it.

There's a little bit here
where we've got a raw edge.

That's annoying, isn't it? Yeah.
Very annoying. Yeah.

I think it's not bad.

The crescent on the back
is actually sitting pretty neatly.

We've got a tiny smidge of lining.

In this case, it's the same fabric,
but it's quite difficult to see.

So that's working in your favour.

Your waistline isn't sitting
perfectly horizontally.

It is a little bit
up and down.

Your seams line up
really pretty perfectly.

The zip is pretty well put in.

Let's have a look at how
it looks on the inside.

You haven't hand-sewn
your lining down.

But actually, you have done
a good job on a difficult challenge.

You clearly know how to handle
this kind of fabric.

It looks terrific.
Thank you.

This front bodice is
absolutely beautiful.

You've got all of that very
complicated crescent moon shape

in exactly the right place.

When I turn that over,
you've got that lining sitting

just a millimetre on the inside
all the way around.

Everything is lined up,
horizontally and vertically.

It's nicely pressed.

I mean, as invisible zips go,
that is invisible.

You have hand-sewn the lining.

Everything is caught in.

The only bit where I think
you've come marginally unstuck

is on the side seam where
it's just a little bit bouncing.

It maybe just needed
a bit longer of a press.

I think you've done a great job.
Thank you.

The fabric you chose, because
it's matte, it doesn't show up

mistakes until you get really close.

You can see the lining.

I don't know why
it isn't lying flat.

You'll see!

Right, let's...
Oh.

You've chopped the top of a zip off.

I'd fold it underneath.

Oh, right.

The lining is not attached
in any way.

Oh, and we have no hem.

I do like the fabric.

I like this peach finish.

But there are some major blemishes
here and there.

Esme and Patrick will now rank
the dresses from worst to best.

In fifth place is Lauren.

The lining wasn't attached.

Fourth place, Tony.

You just had a bit of trouble
with that crescent at the back.

Thanks.

Third place is Vicki.
Well done.

In second place, it's Mia.

Really very nicely sewn. Thank you.

So in first place, it's Asmaa.

You sewed it really precise
and really well.

Thank you.

♪ And I said, what about
Breakfast at Tiffany's... ♪

You can't get perfect,
as much as you try.

That's one thing I've definitely
had it hammered into me

during the last few weeks.

I'm so proud I didn't do badly
in a pattern challenge.

This is like a historic moment.

That pattern challenge
was definitely one worthy

of a quarterfinal,
I think it's fair to say.

That's probably the most complicated
garment I've ever made,

and I think that
really did throw me.

So I think I need to get creative
and let's do a good transformation.

Welcome back, sewers.

It's time now
for the transformation.

This is the one where
you take something familiar

and you put a new spin on it.

Patrick, what are we transforming
today?

When I think of fashion icons, I
think of Marilyn in Seven Year Itch,

Robert Redford
in The Great Gatsby,

Janet Leigh in Psycho.

Ah!

Yes.

We'd like you to take these
shower curtains and transform them

into a high fashion outfit.

In a challenge inspired
by our own fashion icon,

Ms Esme Young.

In 1973, Swanky Modes
made a collection

using vintage shower curtains.

So you can take two shower curtains.

And we're intrigued to see
how you use the transparency

to make an impactful outfit.

Now, this one is judged blind,
so these guys are off to apologise

to the hotel they stole
the shower curtains from.

Off you go.

You have 90 minutes for this
challenge, and your time starts now.

Oh, Tony's going that way.
He's off.

Oh, look, sparkles!

I think I'll go for a few sparkles.

A high fashion outfit
out of shower curtain?

Oh!

How on earth do you even sew
through a shower curtain?

Is this the week we say,

"Come on, this time
they've gone too far"?

Why did you make outfits
out of vintage shower curtains?

It was the images that
we really, really liked.

So there was lipstick,
compacts, fishes,

and of course,
completely see-through ones.

This is not easy material to work
with and some of the patterns

that we've given them are
frankly a little bit ugly looking.

But, you know, you can create
beauty out of ugly.

The plastic shower curtain
is very structural,

so they can pleat it,
they can gather it,

they can create
interesting fan shapes.

What I want to see is something,
in a way, I've never seen before.

Anarchy in the bathroom!

My initial reaction is
to do a see-through dress.

Let's make it really out there.

So I'm going to use as much
of this fabric as I can,

make like a tiered skirt
that goes into the bodice.

It'll be some sort of dress

but I'm not sure how
I'm going to assemble it.

I think these ones will be good
layered with each other

because this one is transparent

and this one's, like,
got the fun stars.

And I was thinking
dress Met Gala vibes.

That's very high fashion, isn't it?

I'm just going to go for
the classic technique.

Just pin it on and see what happens.

So I'm kind of thinking
I'm going to go some kind of harness

for the top to cover the modesty,
some kind of green neon pants

to cover the modesty at the bottom,
and then play with this prism

over the top.

Because the prism just distorts
it all again.

That's my plan.

Maybe I could mini it,
maybe I could mini it underneath.

That makes it much more
of a thing.

This is very off the beaten track
for you. Oh, completely.

So I'm doing knickers and a bra

in pink with blue and then a skirt
on top of that.

I'm going sort of for
indecency with some decency.

These colours that
I've decided to go with

seem to be working all right together.

Tony, yours is finished already?
Hello, I know it.

Everything's covered.

Just the important bits.

Even if you're nude
in your own house, etc... Yeah.

...but not in Sainsbury's.

I wonder why they pulled a face!

You're halfway through!

Already?

Make something to go around
the waist, like a bow or something.

It's going to be quite structural.

High fashion is lots of shapes,
isn't it?

You saying confidently,
"It's shapes,"

I believed you and I'm going
to just be in my real life going,

"But fashion, it's just shapes,
shapes, shapes, shapes."

So I'm just constructing a bodice
and I'm gathering this basically

semicircle shape in order for
that to be a cup for my bustier.

Not the easiest.

It's just a big transparent dress,
to be honest.

I've noticed on catwalks,
hoods are a big deal at the moment.

This is beautiful.
Do you reckon?

I think, isn't the colour yellow
supposed to make you feel

really happy and/or mad?

Which one are you feeling?
Probably mad.

Because this fabric
is not stretched,

I'm going to do ties on the side.

So it's a bikini type style,
a bit like a nappy!

You have 30 minutes left.
Oh!

This stuff doesn't sew.

This is the bit that's causing me
issues, this very centre.

I need to do something else with it.

I think maybe make this shorter.

So I'm actually not going to use
the curtain hooks on this bit.

I'm just going to use some ribbon.

I'm now making the bikini top.

So I've done these cone shapes

and I am literally
just going to do that.

I'm going to use this trim as straps

because it's nice and sparkly
and it matches.

The idea is that it's going to
come over, but come over to there

to cover the eyes as well.

It's the idea, but obviously
I can walk around in it.

How long have we had?

15 minutes left!

Oh, my goodness!

I'm just going to keep going
with what I've got now

and then get some more shapes.

It's all about the shapes,
I'm telling you.

I've going to make a gathered skirt.

I'm going to make a channel
at the top for the elastic

or stitching and see if
they're going to be visible.

So we're just going
to roll with that.

You've made the emperor's new dress.

I think I'm the only person
that's gone completely nude.

I think the reason is that most
people like their clothes

to cover their genitals.

I'll make some sort of frilly
thing to go on the bottom.

Just put loads of ruffles on it.

I'm now making the skirt.

This is going to be the fastest
zip in the world.

Whoa!

This is the best zip I've ever seen.

Don't you think it's
absolutely amazing?

Just how am I getting in and out?

Can you climb into something,
like, you can climb

into something like that, can't you?
Yeah, let's do that.

I'm going to zip that
from the armpit down.

I'm just going to start
sewing things together now.

So at least there is
an actual dress.

The zip, not sure if we're going
to get a high fashion finish.

I don't like the bra fit.

I just think it's a bit big.

Five minutes left, everyone.

I have got some stitching to do.

It needs something.

You see, that looks far better.

More is more, right?

I'm going to just pleat it.

I've got these nice robotic
kind of sleeves now.

I'm making a... What's the thing
that goes around your belt?

Belt!

I've decided that I am going to add
some sort of little bolero jacket,

but it's not going very well.

It's more like a beach outfit,
to be honest.

I think if you wear a beach outfit
to a place that isn't the beach,

it does become fashion.

I have not got much time, have I?

One minute left.

Good grief!

Stop, stop, stop.
I'm not going to tinker.

I can't thread the needle.

Oh, hang on a minute.
Has anyone got curtain rings?

Can I have this?
Yeah, you go for it.

She's just exposed herself.

It's a Janet Jackson moment.

You want me to hold this up for you?
Yeah.

Get her boobs back in.

Is it high fashion or
is it just futuristic?

I don't know, to be honest.

Needles up, sewers,
that is your time.

Bring your mannequins forward
and mix them up like rubber ducks

in a bubble bath.

♪ Splish, splash,
I was taking a bath...♪

Come to me, fashionistas.

♪ How was I to know
there was a party going on

♪ There was a-splishing
and a-splashing

♪ Reeling with the feeling

♪ Moving and a-grooving,
rocking and a-rolling

♪ Hey, yeah... ♪

A show room's worth of shower
curtains transformed into five

high fashion outfits
in just 90 minutes.

Judges, are you decent?

Then you can come back in.

♪ I saw the whole g*ng... ♪

Rub-a-dub-dub, eh?

Indeed, hose me down.

And Patrick and Esme
have no idea who's made what.

♪ There was Lollipop with Peggy Sue

♪ Good golly, Miss Molly
was even there too... ♪

We have a bikini with a coordinating
skirt and bolero jacket.

They have used two different
shower curtains.

I like that they've done
opaque and see-through.

I think they've used
the trims really well.

We've got this pink zip tape
with amazing turquoise teeth.

The bra looks very smartly made.

Let's have a look at the knickers.

Those are very nicely constructed,
little bit saggy on the bum.

There's something quite naughty
about a waterproof pant.

Oh, yes?

♪ Here comes that girl again

♪ Wanted to date her
since I don't know when

♪ But she don't notice me
when I pass... ♪

This person has used,

I think probably only one

see-through shower curtain.

These are the original
curtain rings, aren't they? Yeah.

And the only piece of haberdashery
is a bit of elastic,

which I think
is pretty amazing. Yeah.

They've completely gone to town
with the transparency of it,

so we can see every bit of kind of
underpinning inside the garment.

I think it fits extremely well.

I mean, it's very clever indeed.

♪ Though April showers

♪ May come your way... ♪

I love the colour,
I love the shape.

And then you've got these
quite geometric pleats.

I think the silhouette
is really clever.

I think the great slashed V
at the front is fantastic,

echoed with the same slashed V
at the back.

But if you have a V at the back and
a V at the front, on a real dress,

it falls off your shoulders.

For me, it's a bit too frilly.

Is it a cape?

Is it a coat?

What is it? Where do we...
How do I...

Oh, it's got a zip down the side.
Oh, I see.

OK, so it's a sort of
over the head...

It's almost like a poncho, is it?

And then underneath, we have a kind
of bondage top with a skirt.

Oh, we've got a whopper hood.

You could do shopping
and put stuff in this hood.

I like the way they use
the transparent nature

of the shower curtain.

And we've just got this great
graphic underpinning underneath.

Don't think it needs the necklace
from the rings.

I think it actually looks better
without because it sort of detracts

from the quite clever transparency
of the top there.

♪ I'm in with the in crowd

♪ I go where the in crowd goes... ♪

Very sexy c*ck dress.

It's very psychedelic, isn't it?

We've got sort of holographic stars
here, and then we've got a kind of

holographic dots
all over this half.

I love this kind of asymmetry
on the front.

Me too, and how 3D it is. Yeah.

I suspect this person's
draped this on the stand.

Just this very, very simple,
very slender kind of diamante strap

that holds it up and
crosses over at the back.

I think it's great.
It's quite intriguing.

Patrick and Esme will now rank
the shower curtain transformations

according to which have made
the biggest splash.

Well, they're all very, very good.

You're extremely clever people.

But in fifth place is...

the neon
with the caped hooded top.

We loved it.

You know, there's a lot of clever
thinking that's gone into it.

Very good transformation.

In fourth place is
the bikini with the bolero.

That's Asmaa.

I mean, it's great.

It was really difficult
for us to choose.

And third place is the yellow dress
with a slashed V front.

That's Vicki.
Vicki, fantastic transformation.

In second place is...

...the completely transparent garment
with the corset top.

We loved that it's all
completely transparent.

Brilliant. Thank you.

So in first place is
our holographic c*ck dress.

That's Mia.

Well, we loved the shape of it.

And we loved how you'd played

with the transparency of the fabric.
Well done. Thank you!

Darlings, you've all been fabulous.

Go home, bathe in champagne.

We'll see you tomorrow.

Well done, you.
This week is working for me.

The fashion gods are in my favour.

I needed to do well
in that challenge.

Today I just went
with the nakedness.

Position wise, obviously,
I'm down there at the bottom,

but we're here to have fun,
and sew, aren't we?

So that's what I'm going to do.

Day two, guys, are we ready?

Let's go.
Thank you.

Thank you, Lauren.

This is cold, get me Versace.

Hi, Versace.

Oh, that was close!

How are they doing?

I mean, I think everybody
did well yesterday.

Yes. There was one standout.

Asmaa's pattern challenge
was incredibly beautifully sewn.

You can just see that she's got
the skill in her fingers.

Lauren was bottom in the pattern
challenge, but with transformation,

she's really lifted herself up.

Tony had a few issues with
his pattern, and then Tony's

transformation wasn't bad, but it
just wasn't as good as the others.

No, it wasn't.

So I think Tony sitting
at the bottom. Right.

Lauren and Vicki are not far away.

And it's going to be
really, really difficult to decide.

Well, unless someone
has a howler today. Yes.

Well, let's see who's in vogue
and who's gone rogue.

For the first time this year,

the sewers will be fitting
to male models...

Have a good day.

...in their final challenge,
the Made to Measure.

Hi. Hi.

Hiya.

I'm excited, actually, for today.

Hello, sewers.

For this week's Made to Measure,

the judges would like you to make
an item inspired by fashion icons

such as Noel Coward
and Harry Styles.

It is the smoking jacket.

I would offer to help,
but I'm trying to quit.

You have five hours
and your time starts now.

Super job.

I'm just going to quickly
take some measurements.

The sewers have had a chance

to practise their smoking
jackets at home...

40. Lovely, thank you.

...and have already cut out
most of their pieces.

This is the challenge.
I've got, like, 36 pieces here.

But now is their opportunity
to tailor them to their models.

Would you say your chest
is, like, here?

I've made a few things for my
husband, but nothing tailored.

Do you think there will
one day be a vaping jacket?

Well, you probably wouldn't
have a jacket, would you,

because what are you protecting
your clothes from?

Oh, so that's it,
the jacket's to protect...

Oh, did you know why they wear them?
I know nothing.

They wore them to protect
their clothes from ash.

So, how drunk were they?

I think, for the moment,
you can chillax.

What makes a smoking jacket
not a jacket?

Smoking jackets were traditionally
an alternative to a dinner jacket.

I mean, they were literally worn

loafing around
in your country house,

smoking and drinking
at the end of an evening.

Sort of a dressing gown,
but posh. Yes.

And shape is quite straight.
It can be quite straight.

I mean, traditionally
they were a little looser.

Today, there's a mixture.

If you looked at Daniel Craig
in his pink smoking jacket

at the Bond premiere,
it was very fitted.

So how important is the fit
on the models today?

The shoulders have got to sit
naturally, so the top of the sleeve

head needs to sit just off the edge
of the shoulder.

They're going to have to set sleeves
into the jackets, which again

is tricky, particularly in some
of the fabrics they'll be using.

Velvet can be a very tricky fabric.

All right, then.

So I put my smoking jacket
in the washing machine and now

the washing machine is on 20 a day.

Feeling OK,
trying to chill.

Tailoring and especially
for men as well,

is something I never really do.

Oh, dear.

Morning, Tony. Morning.

You don't seem like
a smoking jacket kind of man.

I do own a smoking jacket now
because I practised one.

Show us what you're doing.

When I thought of a smoking jacket,
although he didn't wear one,

I instantly thought of
the very early Willy Wonka film

with Gene Wilder in it.
Oh, yeah.

Tony's Charlie and the Chocolate
Factory inspired corduroy smoking

jacket will feature a velvet shawl
collar and cuffs and jet

or welt pockets with
a discreet slit opening.

Tricky to do jets in cord, though.
Yes, it is.

I think this is the most
complicated thing I've ever done.

All right. We'll leave you to it.
Good luck.

Thank you very much.

I'm taking a risk, I suppose
maybe, I'm doing welt pockets,

that's actually cutting
into the fabric.

But again, just thinking it's
the quarterfinals and you've got

to do something different,
haven't you?

I have gone for a dark purple
velvet for the main body

and it has a contrast

black collar.

Patrick hates purple.
I know. You're not by yourself.

Safety in numbers. Absolutely.

Asmaa may be sharing Tony's
colour scheme, but is aiming

to set her velvet smoking jacket
apart with a slim satin

collar and piping.

She's also going all out to ensure
an idealised masculine silhouette.

Whopping fat shoulder pads
you've got.

I quite like them.

They might be a bit too much.

For her smoking jacket,

Mia has got a different take
on lighting up.

I've gone for this sparkly brocade.

Oh. Are you making a smoking jacket
for an old lady?

Yeah, look, it's like curtains
and then the pearls.

You really are.

Well, I thought this is
very Harry Styles inspired.

Yeah, or Hillary Clinton.

Works both ways. It does!

They often share clothes,
I've heard.

Channelling the androgynous style
of pop sensation Harry Styles,

Mia's jacquard smoking jacket
will be lined in pink poly cotton

and feature curved pocket flaps
and a scalloped shawl collar.

I was looking at traditional
smoking jackets and I don't know,

they're not really my style and
I wanted to make a bit more me,

so I thought, add a fun
little scallop on.

So you've just come up
with this yourself? Yeah.

You've just given yourself an awful
lot to do, having to get

all of these rounds and these
corners perfect right down the front

where it's incredibly visible.
That's a lot of work.

We shall see.

Lauren's also taking inspiration
from Harry Styles, among others.

I can see you've got some cool
pictures of hunky guys.

Yeah, nothing to do
with the challenge.

Just posters for your wall. Exactly.

What's his name?

Azouz. Azouz.

Asos!

Her pin-up worthy smoking jacket
will have a waist tie,

patch pockets and satin lapel
and cuffs

and will be made from chenille,

a fabric often found hanging on
walls for a very different reason.

It's actually a curtain fabric.
Is it?

I love it.
What are you lining it in?

It's not lined.

OK. I'm going to use some bias
binding to bind to my seams.

I mean, it's brave.

I mean, the great thing about lining
is, it hides all the inside.

We're going to see every single bit
of the inside of your jacket.

Everything is going to be visible.

You're going to have
to do beautiful binding.

I am hoping to give myself enough
time in order to do that binding.

This is the start of the
construction of the welt pockets

and in a minute
I'm going to cut that as well.

So quite a lot at stake here.

I am making patch pockets.

I opted not to go for welt pockets
because at the best of times,

they are a bit fiddly and tricky.

Tony is a brave man over there
doing a welt.

It's not brave, mate.
You are.

No, I'm not,
I'm struggling.

I'm adding patch pockets,
but I'll wait until I do the hem

so that then I know that the pockets
are going in the right place.

Got a little tear.

Where I've done a nick
to make the flat,

it's just run.

When it comes to pockets,
Vicki is taking a simpler approach.

It's not having pockets.

No pockets? Because men
have pockets in their trousers.

They don't need them
in their jackets.

We love pockets in our jackets.
But let's not be greedy.

Her pocketless tuxedo style
smoking jacket will be made from two

different velvets with a self
drafted lining in synthetic silk.

I'm not going to say
it's in my comfort zone, no,

because the jackets
I've made aren't fitted.

And they're not for men,
they're for women.

And it's just a bit different,
isn't it?

The gap on my welts
isn't as I planned.

Luckily I've put the same colour
fabric behind so you can see

through to it.

I have never, ever done any...

Ooh, look, found my little piece.

That was a bit Esme like.

I don't think I've ever done
an "Ooh" in my life

but there we are.

You're halfway through.

Halfway through!

Why did I even think that sewing
with velvet was a good idea?

I've only basted in my sleeves
because I just wanted to check them

on my model.

I've put the majority
of my panels together.

I'll just offer it up to my man now.

What do you think about the pattern?

Reminds me
my grandmother furnitures.

Love that.

The smoking jacket may be
for relaxing in,

but it's still a tailored garment

that needs an impeccable fit.

Bloody fits, doesn't it?
Perfectly. Yeah.

A misstep here could either
leave it baggy and robe-like...

Something about the arm
I am not loving.

I just feel like
it needs to be lower.

...or straining at the seams.

Does it feel OK, it's not snug,
is it? Just slightly.

Can you, like,
move your arms forward?

Yeah, it'll be OK.
Just don't rip it!

I'm going to leave the shoulder pads
because you've got square shoulders

and you work out obviously
with your job.

So I'm going to skip those,
there they are.

I'm not happy with the way
the sleeve is sitting

on the shoulder.

I'm going to unpick this sleeve now
and I just want to try that again.

I'm distracted now.
I need to get back to business.

There is so much left to do.

So right now I'm going to attach
the sleeves to the main body.

The sleeve is bigger
than the armhole.

So you sew this gathering stitch
and it just makes the fabric

gather up enough that you should be
able to ease it into the sleeve.

This is not good.
This is not good.

I'm working on the sleeves,
for some reason,

it's not fitting as it should do.

My sleeves are playing up as well.

Serves me right for not
practising this part.

Who is this inspired by?
Willy Wonka.

Well, I think that makes a lot
more sense because chocolate

is more likely to flake on you
nowadays than cigarette ash,

isn't it? Yeah.

So you've got a chocolate jacket.

It is whizzing lining time.

When you line things,
it just double your work.

Essentially, you are making two
jackets and putting them together.

I wanted to do a lining
because I just like the finish

it gives on the inside,
if I've done it right.

I'm not lining mine.

Everything that you see internally
here is going to be bound.

But I'm worried about
the fit across the arms.

I don't want it to be
too tight there.

I'm just conscious of time now.
Compromises shall be made.

One hour left!

Get over all the mess.

I'm just doing the collar.

This is going to be the bit
that sits outward

like this, basically.

So you need to sew it to the lining
and then I can sew it

to the actual fabric.

The only alteration I've done
to the pattern is the collar

is a bit smaller.

I've actually got quite
a big collar.

It's kind of '70s kind
of thing for me.

To make these scallops,

just use the normal pattern
and then just put a bowl around.

Sorry, I'm treading on all
of your patterns.

Are these all the things
you have to do? Yeah.

Done those bits already.

Do you want me to throw them away?
No! All right, OK.

I am now putting the collar

that's going to be showing
on the outside onto the lining.

Does it feel a bit fitted?

OK. It feels good.

I don't know how long
men's jackets should be, you know.

Something like that.

Just checking it fits?

You know, this is the only challenge
I can get to try stuff on, isn't it?

Yeah. Play to your strengths.

Yeah, I know,
but sewing isn't one of them.

Trying stuff on is.

Hi, ladies.

Tony, well, had a bit of
a disaster with his pockets.

With his jets?
Yeah.

It's a difficult technique.

What we don't want is a great big
gaping letterbox in the middle

of the jacket.
Or raw edges. No.

My pockets, not good, it ripped.

Tried to correct it.

And that's resulted
in this bloody big gap.

Lauren seems a bit behind.

There are no pockets in it.

There's no binding on any
of the seams inside. Yes.

I'm just trying to work out
what I need to do and what time.

A lot, is the answer.

Mia, she's got all those
scalloped edges.

That's a huge amount of sewing to do
in a very short period of time.

It's probably a bad idea
to speed sew around a scallop,

but I never said they were going
to be neat scallops.

I just said they were going
to be scallops.

Hmm.

30 minutes left.

I feel like I've got so much to do!
Aah!

I have just done the collar.

I am now going to hopefully finish
off the sleeves for the lining.

And then I can attach all
of the lining into the main body.

Finally!

Putting your lining in? Yeah.

It's done.

The hardest part is getting
the bagging out, right?

This is like rocket science.
Or birthing.

Basically, you leave
a hole in the lining

and you sew it all inside out.

And then you squash it
through your hole.

It looks like a maze.

I've lost my orientation
of where everything is.

Where is the frickin' armpit?

I honestly cannot be bothered.

Am I bothered?
Do I look bothered?

Am I bothered?

Ohh!

There. It's a jacket.

I am going to have to sacrifice my
bias binding, it's time consuming.

And at the minute, I think
it's more important for me to tuck

this facing down than it is to
finish the inside of the garment.

Just prioritising.

Ten minutes left.

Get out!

♪ Anything you want to, do it

♪ Wanna change the world,
there's nothing to it. ♪

There was a lot to do,
have you done it? No.

OK, well, you should probably
do it now.

I am now going to add

the cuff detail
to the sleeves.

Hem next.

A neat way to do this hem
would be to use this bias tape

that I'm so determined to use.

But I don't know if I'm making
more work for myself.

I bet this is going to hang weirdly
because I've done it on the table.

Oh, well.

We are going to do
some serious piping.

SHE GASPS
Ah!

I sewed through my nail.

Blood, sweat and tears
and nails went into this.

Five minutes left.
Bloody hell!

Timing wise, I'm all right.

Quality wise...

It's going to be
the fastest belt in the world.

I hope I can get it done.

Not got it anywhere
as near as I thought it would.

This is an idea that my mum gave me
to turn her belts through.

Oh, my God, Mother.

Should always listen
to your mother.

Oh, look at that.

Oh, Mother.

I don't think I'm going
to get the belt done. Aah!

Oh, a little c*ck
poking out at me.

I didn't mean that in a rude way.

Just a simple patch pocket
that I'm doing.

I'm going to get dressed
in a second.

One minute left.

Get those models dressed.
Model, model, model.

You have to tell them
that you love it.

Don't know how much of the belt
I actually got done, then.

Don't worry about using the pockets.

Ain't perfect.

I'm just going to tuck
the belt in.

Needles up, sewers, that's your time
and be careful,

these jackets are hot.

It's time for the catwalk.

Pleased with it, actually.

You're clearly channelling
Willy Wonka today.

Right, I can't do fluff here
any more.

Five sumptuous smoking jackets,
made in just five hours.

♪ I went to a marvellous party

♪ I went to a marvellous party
and I couldn't have liked it more. ♪

There is an awful lot of
extremely good work in here.

The colour combination
works very well. Thank you.

I don't love purple,
but this one looks great.

And I really like that your shawl
has got a pattern on it.

But a nice smooth curve.

If I'm being really nit-picky,
I would have liked a little bit

more belly down the bottom.
I chopped it off.

I changed the shape because
I didn't like the belly. Did you?

Your patch pockets are very neat
and tidy, well sewn on.

And your piping. Yeah.

I mean, you gave yourself a lot
to do, but it's really neat.

It looks too small on his shoulder.

Did you put shoulder pads in?

No, I didn't.
Very wise.

Would have looked even worse.

I think the length looks
bang-on, it looks the money,

it really does.

♪ I'm mad about the boy

♪ And I know it's stupid... ♪

I do like the jungle scene print.

The whole thing looks very rich
and very opulent,

which is good in a smoking jacket.

Well, you've got
your lining in - very good.

It rides up.

When it's done, it rides up
and we get this roundness here,

so it's too small for him.

I feel like the whole thing
is too short.

Classically, we have what we call
the rule of thumb.

So you would fit the length
of the jacket

to that knuckle on the thumb.
=I think it looks good.

I mean, it looks like a smoking
jacket, but it looks like

a slightly too small smoking jacket.

♪ Come with me

♪ And you'll be

♪ In a world of pure imagination... ♪

You've gone for black and purple
too. I have, yes.

The back fits well
over his shoulders.

And actually, the collar
is sitting well.

It's not too far forward,
it's not too far back.

The lining...

Well, you've made the lining
long enough, which is good.

Now, I know you had problems
with the pockets. Yes, I did.

They should have met in the middle. Yeah.

But at least you put the corduroy
behind it so it doesn't shout out.

They're not fantastic,

but it's a very difficult pocket
to create.

And I think bravo, because actually
it is the right pocket

for a smoking jacket.

You should be very pleased with
this, Tony. I think it looks good.

Thank you.

♪ It's not the same as it was

♪ In this world

♪ It's just us... ♪

I have never, in all my years
of doing menswear,

seen a shawl collar with
this amazing scalloped edge

and the way that you've brought it
from the narrow part of the collar

and then kind of bowed it out in
this lovely series of curves...

I mean, this is really,
really difficult to do.

And it does make it
really individual.

But something
is going on at the front here.

Oh, your hem is really short.

I did it flat, which was silly,

and I should have put it on
and then pinned it,

because then, when you put
it on, obviously it just falls.

But when it's flat,
it looks really good.

I watched you start sewing this belt
and finish sewing this belt

in the final 30 seconds. Yeah.

But I mean, at least
we have some part of a belt

cos otherwise,
we wouldn't be able to do it up.

But overall, I think it's
so original and so well done.

I love it. Thank you.

♪ Smooth operator

♪ Smooth operator... ♪

I really like this fabric and
it being a curtain, it's fantastic.

It has the look of
an expensive silk jacquard.

We've got pleats
in the shoulder seam

and you've struggled
with the sleeve insertion.

So we've got, in a very prominent
and obvious place, a lump. Yeah.

Did you cut the pocket in
a different orientation to the...?

I cut it the right way,
but didn't put it on the right way.

It was the last thing I did.

Just shade slightly a different
colour. Turn round to the back.

Looks a good fit
over his shoulder blades.

You don't have a lining, so we do
have some raw corners. Mm-hm.

If I was doing an unlined jacket,
I would expect the seams

to be finished in some way or other.

So I think there are some
good aspects to it, but I think

it's really unfortunate that places
you've made the big mistakes

are the really visible bits.
Such a shame.

Yeah.

I was really pleased with it.

I don't really know
what their problem is!

I don't know whether that balances
what I did yesterday,

so we'll just have to see.

I am completely happy with the fact
that I have worked my hardest

and I am so proud
of what I've achieved.

So this is for you to decide
who's getting a place

in the semifinal next week.

How did they do?

Icon or
I Can't Believe It's Not Butter?

We set them three very difficult
challenges this week. Yeah.

And I think on the whole
they've done pretty well.

There were two smoking jackets
that I was really impressed by

and those were Mia's and Asmaa's.
Mia's was incredibly original

but had some sewing issues.

And Asmaa's was not so imaginative

but really, really well sewn.

Who hasn't done so great?

I think, coming into today,

Tony was sitting at the bottom
and Lauren was a little above him.

Yeah. But Tony, I think, actually
has done a pretty good job

of his smoking jacket. Yes.

It isn't perfect, but it's
a wearable, finished garment.

And Lauren sadly struggled today.

But I did love
Lauren's see-through gown.

So, has Tony done enough
to save himself?

And has Lauren done badly enough
in this challenge

to put herself at the bottom?

Well, that's the question
we have to answer. Yes.

Sewers, our time in the spotlight
is coming to an end.

But before the final curtain,
here's Patrick with some lovely news.

Well, in a very difficult week,
very tough challenges,

our Garment of the Week
this week is...

...Asmaa.

The exceptional quality
of the sewing throughout made

this one a very worthy winner.

Thank you so much. Thank you.

It was a fiendishly hard week
and we're so grateful

for all of your incredible hard work.

Nevertheless,
somebody has to go home.

We're very sad to lose them.

And that person is...

...Lauren.

Sweetie.

Sorry. That's OK.

This experience has been one
of the most positive experiences

I've ever had in my adult life.

I have never felt more proud
of myself for not only learning

a skill, but being brave enough

to then show that self-taught skill
on TV.

Oh!

I can't believe it, to be honest.
I genuinely thought it was me today.

Er, yeah.

You see this smile on my face?

I don't think it will be
disappearing any time soon.

I mean, all of you did so well
this week.

I mean, those were really,
really tough challenges.

Oh, my gosh!
There is no time for unwinding.

We're on to the semifinals.

We've got to practise,
practise, practise.

Next time...

WHISTLE BLASTS

...it's Utilitarian Week...

Oh! ..as the sewers tussle
with trench coats...

Who knew sewing could be so much fun?

...clean up in the transformation...

I don't think you're meant
to sew mops.

...and labour over
the Made to Measure.

Oh, my gosh!
Just hold your breath.

A hungry bum in a boiler suit
is not a good idea.

Who'll be promoted to the final?

Very, very, very clever indeed.

And who'll be collecting their P45?

This is where it could get messy.