07x06 - Episode 6

[bunniefuu]

It's Reduce, Re-use, Recycle Week.

In the spirit of waste not,
want not,

I'm wearing one of Patrick's
hand-me-downs.

What do you think, Esme?
Ghastly.

Oh. Where is Patrick, anyway?

Oh, he's on his way.

There's going to be some thrifty
challenges

for our seven remaining sewers.

Welcome to the Great British
Sewing Bee.

Last time...

Hello.

..it was Children's Week.

Very comfortable.
Ah, very nice.

Farie made it a hat trick...

Three in a row!

..with a magical mackintosh.

We love the pony tail.

A few of the sewers had tantrums...

Aah, seriously, Adeena!
Go on.

..but it was Adam's nautical
boat coat...

It's the worst thing I've ever
made in my life. Adam.

..that sunk without trace.

I thought so.
We'll really miss you, Adam.

Now it's Reduce, Re-use
and Recycle Week.

m*rder at the charity shop.

The sewers must turn second-hand
clothes...

This is a bold choice.

..into first-rate fashion.

Give it to me, Joe.

Who will turn trash into treasure?

I would put something like this down
a catwalk and be very proud of it.

And whose recycling...

Oh, no, no, no!

..will end up in the bin?

OK. Crap.

Can't look.

# With a little imagination

# You will find the world can be
left behind...

DAMIEN: Reduce, Re-use,
Recycle Week.

I don't know if I'm looking
forward to this or not.

I mean, I can envisage 'em giving us
a load of rags

and just sort of saying, "Go and
make something out of that."

It can be quite challenging,

trying to match different pieces
from different fabrics

and trying to make one thing.

So, you know, whatever
they throw at us,

we are just going to have to deal
with it when we see it.

I do recycle some of my own stuff.

My tank top here is actually made
out of old socks.

It's just the leg section from lots
of socks cut open

and stitched together.

Look at that haberdashery.

For a truly sustainable week
in the sewing room,

all the fabric in the haberdashery
has been replaced

with second-hand garments.

Lot of jackets.
Yeah, lots of jackets.

Hello!
Morning.

Morning, come forward.

# A little imagination. #

It's Reduce, Re-use, Recycle Week
and I'm a huge fan of recycling.

All of my clothes are second hand.

I get them all from Cher.

Same cup size.
Who would've thought?

You'll notice the haberdashery
is transformed,

all the usual fabrics have been
replaced with worn items.

And speaking of worn items,

Patrick and Esme are here.

Tell us about the pattern challenge.

Here we go.

Pass them round.

This week, we've got a man's
waistcoat.

Bagged out, five buttons
and five buttonholes.

In the UK, we throw away a shocking
million tonnes

of clothing every year.

So, for this waistcoat,
you're going to be making it

entirely from second-hand clothes.

You can use as many pieces
as you like,

but think carefully about how all
the colours

and patterns work together.

There you go, waistcoats.

Perfect for waiters, snooker players
and footballers in court.

You have four hours
for this challenge.

Your time starts now.

Sorry.

Oh, do I really want
stripey-stripey?

Although they can recycle any
garments they wish...

I like this flowery one but I don't
think it's the fabric

that I'm looking for.
It's stretchy.

A successful waistcoat requires
a heavy fabric for the front...

Think I'm going tweed.

..and lighter weight fabric
for the back and lining.

Jersey fabric, there.
No, that's not ideal.

Can somebody get me that one,
please?

I've never made a waistcoat before.

But I think it'll be
quite fun to do -

trying to, like, piece all these
bits of fabric together.

I'll take that, thanks.

Is that a magnifying glass?
Yes.

If you want anything checking,
let me know. Oh, yeah.

Thread the needle.

I love a waistcoat,
very flattering on the moobs.

Got to play to your strengths.
Why have you chosen it?

This is a great tailoring challenge

because it can easily be made from
reclaimed fabrics.

Do they have to find exact pieces
that are that big,

or can they merge pieces?

Well, they could patchwork them
together.

Might they use features
from the original garments?

If they did that, they're making
the sewing more difficult.

They have to really consider where
they're putting the features.

And also, we've asked them for five
button and buttonholes,

and it's very important they're
lined up properly

and put in the correct place.

Could go wonky at the bottom.

Well, let's hope that their
waistcoats

aren't a waste of space.

When I think of a man's waistcoat,
I think tweed.

So, I've chosen this
herringbone jacket

for my front of the waistcoat.

So, I've chosen this jacket,
which is made of wool.

For my lining, I've chosen something
that's already lining

cos I know it's a lining,
so I can't go wrong.

The sewers will need to recycle
enough fabric

for 14 pattern pieces.

First, the facing and lining
are sewn together.

Then attached to the front sections,

leaving open shoulder and side seams
through which to bag out.

Then the process is repeated
on the other side.

The four back panels are sewn
to make an inner and outer layer

with a back strap added to the rear.

The front is then sandwiched between
the two back layers

and stitched at the seams -

leaving a gap in one side seam
to pull the waistcoat through.

Finally, the buttons and buttonholes
are added to the front.

Oh, I can get that out of
some trousers.

As the sewers are using existing
garments as their fabric,

they must first work out from where
to cut their pattern pieces.

I've got two suit jackets.

These are my two pieces
that I've cut for the front.

I do quite like this tweed.

Having to make it from a garment
that's already made is tricky

cos you have to fit the pattern
pieces on that already made garment,

so, you might find there's a seam
going across your pattern piece

or that you have to deconstruct
the whole jacket

to be able to cut into it.

I found this really vibrant gold
dress that I love,

but I'm not sure it's going to be
big enough for the front pieces.

So, I might mix it up a bit
with this black one,

do one half of the front gold,
one half black.

If their original garments don't
have sections of fabric

large enough for the pattern
pieces...

Not going to get a whole back
out of there.

..they can either attempt the tricky
task of incorporating

original features...

If I do do it like this,
I'll end up with a tiny bit

of that pocket in it.

..or patchwork together multiple
sections of fabric.

Oh, I see what you're doing.
Piecing it together.

Trying to.
Nice.

So, this looks like a jacket.
This used to be a jacket, yes.

OK, you've taken the approach of
fully dismantling...

Yeah, taking the time to deconstruct
and then reassemble.

Cos there was darts everywhere.

Which I think is quite sensible.
I agree.

Makes life...
An awful lot easier.

Whilst Raph is avoiding his
original features...

Now it's just a matter of making
it well.

..Adeena has decided to
embrace hers.

OK, so, you've been very brave

and you're putting the corner
of this pocket

in the side seam of your waistcoat.
Yeah.

I was trying to move it around.

And you didn't think of piecing
bits of fabric together?

I did think that, but trying to kind
of utilise a bit of these pockets.

I like the pocket being there.
OK.

It says it's recycled, doesn't it?

Yeah, it just might be quite tricky
to sew through all of that.

Well, it might be.
Yeah.

Rebecca, what have you done
with my hunting trousers?

I thought it was a new style
for you.

Shall I try 'em on?
I mean, yeah, go for it.

Doesn't really matter if I rip this,
does it? No, not really.

FABRIC TEARS
Ooh! Just get the other one on.

Yep. Ready for hunting.

Yeah, I think that's good.

Yeah.

Right.

Morning.
It's m*rder at the charity shop.

These are your two fore parts.
Yes.

Those are your facings. That's it.

Back. Is that the outside back?
That's the outside lining, yeah.

So, how many jackets have you used?

Two jackets, a pair of pants
and I've got a lady's dress.

Doesn't sound very sustainable
to me.

Well, I'm recycling more.

Er, yes, OK.

Right, OK. So, join your
front facing

and front lining pieces together.

Made of three separate panels,

the fronts of the waistcoat
are constructed inside out.

When you turn everything
to the right side,

you don't want to be able to see
any of the facings.

Moment of truth.

There we go. Nice.

I just need to iron these down.

Make sure they're nice and flat.

The front two pieces of the
waistcoat assembled.

Right, Damien, can I just say
something to you?

Yes.
Look at this mess.

I know, when I've done this
I'll give it a bit of a tidy.

OK. And we've got hangars,
everything.

Look how far it's all going!

Keep getting told off.

Sewers, you've had half your time.

What?

I'm just on my waistcoat back now.

The back is constructed from four
pieces of lightweight fabric.

Right, so, I've chosen big shirts.

Two are joined to make
an outer lining.

The red came from a suit.

And two are joined to make
an inner lining.

So, these are the two that you're
going to be able to see on the back

and then this bit is going
to be the lining.

Take your four back
waistcoat pieces.

I've got two.

Serena, how many back pieces
have you got?

You need two for each layer.

Stupid thing.

So, basically, the inside
and the outside? Mm-hm.

So, it's just about figuring
out what fabric I can use

to cut out another two back pieces.

I don't think I can take out two
panels of this.

In need of a quick fix...

Right, what have I got left
that I can use?

Think, Adeena. Quickly.

..Adeena picks another jacket
for her back panels...

So, what I'm doing is going for
panels out of this.

..with yet more tricky pockets.

It's going to look so stupid,
these little flaps at the back.

Aah! I should've just gone
and got another one

but I don't want to have to start
wasting more time.

Even if they've sewn the right
number of back sections together...

Why not just say four.

Why say two pairs?

..the sewers still face
the complex task

of attaching them to the front.

Put the back pieces right-side up,

then place your front pieces
right-side facing down.

I'm assuming we're going to
sandwich everything in between

and pull stuff through.

Just joining my back linings
together

and sandwiching everything
else inside.

But unless the sewers pin and stitch
the layers in the right order...

Wait a minute.
DAMIEN GASPS

Wait a minute,
I shouldn't be doing that yet.

..they won't leave the correct seam
open from which to bag out.

Don't stitch this one down.

Stitch that all the way,
and then put this...

And leave that one open?

And leave this one open, and that's
where you turn it out.

I like being next to you.
DAMIEN LAUGHS

It's like when you've got a sat nav.
You can follow the sat nav

but you've got the instructions
being told to you as well.

Are you comparing me to a sat nav?

I'm so confused.
Sorry, Serena.

Serena the sat nav.
Great.

If working inside out wasn't
difficult enough...

We've just got all these layers of
fabrics smooshed together

and then you're like, "Yeah,
this is going to be waistcoat.

..the sewers must also control
multiple layers

of contrasting fabric...

The pocket, it's kind of coming in
the way.

..and they won't know if they're
aligned until they bag it out.

I think there's going to be a slight
misalignment on the inside seam.

I'll only know when I turn it
inside out.

This tiny little gap here, I'm going
to attempt to pull it through.

Giving birth to a waistcoat.

Can't look!

I've just heard popping stitches,
which is not good.

Ooh!

Ta-da! Quite happy with this.

SERENA GASPS

It's a waistcoat!

Excellent.

I think, yeah...
It's alright, you know.

Lined up nicely on the seams.

That's going to have to do.

I'm going to go give that
a good press.

15 minutes, sewers.

Ooh!

Last but not least, the buttons.

Trying to see if I can salvage some
from the jackets that I used.

Pressing time now,
cos when you put the buttons on,

you want to make sure everything's
lined up.

Unless the front pieces are level
BEFORE the buttons

and buttonholes are added...

If you're marking it with marker
pen, you're meaning it.

..all of the sewers' hard work
will be undone...

Esme would kick off
if she seen me doing this.

..as the most visible part of the
waistcoat will look uneven

when buttoned up.

Hmm, that seam's a bit out.

Now we're on to hand-sewing
the buttons.

Oh, I hope I get these on in time.
It's going to be tight.

Last five minutes, sewers.
Ah!

Quite happy with them,
nicely aligned.

Nearly finished?
Nearly finished.

I'm just putting the buckle on.

Think I'll just about do it.

You stay there, Joe,
carry on talking.

You're the time call guy
so, if you stay there...

Oh, I see. MINUTE AND A HALF.

No, no.

So, you'd like me to stay for
a bit longer

than a minute and a half, maybe?
Yeah.

I need to sort my back pockets out.

If I get rid of this,
that's still messed up.

Help! Buckle, buckle!

Help, anybody?

It's too thick.

Right, so, the short bit, yeah?

Bit through there.
Needles up!

That is your time.

Bring your mannequins forward

and let's see if this has been
a WAIST of your time.

As in waist like waistcoat.
Do you get it?

Seven recycled waistcoats...

Raph, yours is so you.

..made in just four hours.

I actually like the combination
of the colours

and the different fabrics.

Oh, hang on.

I know, yeah.
It's sticking out a bit.

Sticking out a bit?
Yeah.

It certainly is sticking out.

It's a shame, actually.

There's one thing that really
stands out to me

and that is that you haven't
lined your front edges up...

Yeah. ..before you've put your
buttonholes on.

Cheers, thanks.

I very much like
the choice of colour.

It has a very traditional
English waistcoat feel.

On the whole, it's very neatly sewn.

I think your buttons
are pretty straight,

spacing's really good.

We can see the facing
is coming to the front.

It's meant to look flat
and no seams showing

but I think, overall, pretty good.

Well done.
Thank you.

This tweed on the front has got
a lovely, very classic

English genty feel to it.

There are two things.

We've got a pin at the back,
so you haven't quite finished.

But the bigger thing for me is that
you haven't got your front edges

lined up before you've put your
buttonholes on.

Otherwise, I think you've done
a pretty good job.

I like the combination of fabrics.

But the facing is coming through
slightly here.

I mean, you don't notice it
immediately.

Well, yes, you do, actually.

Yeah.

Rebecca, I really love this tweed

with this lovely dark pink
overcheck.

I think it's a very handsome bit
of cloth.

I like your placement of fabrics.

The big issue we've got...
I know.

..is you haven't got it lined
up properly.

Yeah, yeah. That's fine.

Well, Serena, I very much like
the contrast

of the golden black and the black.

It's all very neatly sewn.

I like that you've got the brocade
side over

so we've got more of the brocade.
Yes.

And I also really like that
you've given us

black buttons, which ties
the whole thing.

We've got various little bits
of original seams.

But you've managed them really well.

They haven't stopped you from sewing
it really beautifully.

Yeah.
Well done.

Thank you.

Raph, I think this combination of
colours and fabrics really work.

And it is very, very neatly sewn.

You've got seams from the original
garment in the back,

but your sewn seam is
terrifically neat.

The neck facing all the way round,

the facing round the front,
you don't see any of it.

Did you manage to get it
out of one bit?

Er, no, so, the seam is there.
It's on the front.

Oh, my goodness. There.

Wow. We couldn't find it.

Wow, that's exceptional.

Everything about it is really
nicely sewn.

I love the colours.

Brilliant.
Thank you.

Well, Adeena, you only cut two
backs instead of four.

That's right. So, that's why we have
a piece of jacket on the back.

Adeena, I think this was really
ambitious

and I liked that you've very
deliberately

left little reminders of the
old garment,

but it has meant it's
difficult to sew.

You've had to sew your seam over a
pair of pocket jets and a flap.

You've got so many lumps in here

because of the original features -
it's just difficult.

Yeah.

Esme and Patrick will now rank the
waistcoats from worst to best.

In seventh place is...

..Adeena.

It's not beautifully sewn.
Absolutely, I agree. Thank you.

In sixth place is Damien.

Your front edge is very skewwhiff.

In fifth place is Rebecca.

Farie is fourth.

And Andrew is third.

In second place...

..Serena.

Beautifully sewn all over.

Lovely combination of fabrics.

Very well done indeed.
Thank you.

So, in first place, it's Raph.

Thank you.
Well done.

Well done.
Good job, Raph.

Really beautifully sewn,
and also, really impressed

how you disguised the joining
of the fabrics.

Thank you. Kind of miraculous
assembly of the fabrics.

Yeah, brilliant.
Amazing.

Well, well done. It's time for a
break now.

Go and have some refreshments,
maybe spend a penny

and we'll be back for the
Transformation Challenge.

Well done.

# I'll never say "never again" again

# Cos here I am in love

# Head over heels... #

Well done, Raph.
Nice one. Well done.

You've beaten the queen of the
Pattern Challenge.

I have, yeah.

Oh, my God. What just happened?
I dunno.

I won this.

So, yeah, Serena and I seem to be
doing quite well

in the Pattern Challenge,

and there's like a sort of healthy
competition going.

Your seams, I think -
nail in the coffin.

We both have three each.

We're even just now, so maybe,
if we both get through,

we'll see what happens next week.

I'm not a sore loser, yeah.

But I think I should've been one
place higher -

but what do I know?

I think coming seventh,
you're straight in the danger zone,

as I've known in the past as well.

So, I'm actually going to give it my
all for the next challenge.

Hopefully, depending on what
the challenge is.

Oh, amazing...

What they got?
Ey up, camo!

For the second challenge in
Reduce, Re-use and Recycle Week...

Oh, no.

..the sewers are being called
up for National Service.

Hmm. Hmm.

You seem confused, sewers.

Yes. We are.

Patrick, tell us about this
Transformation Challenge.

We are giving you...

..military surplus.

Now there's fantastic military
surplus stores all over the country

and this stuff is never
far from the catwalk.

So, we want garments
that are very chic indeed.

You can take up to three items.

We want you to transform them into a
stylish garment for a woman.

And remember,
as little possible waste.

We'll send the judges away now so
they don't know whose is whose,

and also so they can swap stories
of their time in the SAS.

Off you go.

Thank you for your service.

You have 90 minutes for this
challenge.

Good luck, your time starts now.

MUSIC: Thunderbirds Theme
by Barry Gray

I've never run so quickly.

The sewers have been rationed to
just three camo garments...

I like this.

..but can commandeer
any accessories they like.

This is a bold choice.

I didn't actually know that army
surplus stores

were actually a thing.

This is quite an interesting
way to use them up.

Can you see me?
Where are you, Joe?

How about now?
There you are!

There I am.

I was there all along.

So, we've asked them to make a piece
of women's clothing

from military surplus.

They could make dresses,
they could make jackets.

But what I want to see is it
transformed.

And of course, we've said that they
can use trim

from the haberdashery,

but I don't want to see it detract
from the camo.

There's all sorts of interesting
super-functional features

that they could use
to make them really fun.

I would like to see impact
and drama,

but it has to work visually.

I've got the idea that I want to
make a skirt,

so, I'm going to put these two
pieces here.

Think I really like the idea of
using military

to create something.

My grandad, when it was
World w*r II,

he was captured by the Germans -
he was there for about two years.

He was released obviously
after the w*r.

And even now, I'd love to actually
find his actual

uniform that he wore.

So, I think that is giving me
that buzz

to actually do well with this one,
so, let's just see.

Commander Lycett,
reporting for duty, sir.

Yes, hello.

What is Sergeant making, sir?

It's starting off as a top, OK?

But then it's going to transform
to a dress.

So, I've pleated it on the shoulders
now, as you can see.

Lovely pleat, sir.
OK, and what I've done here

is cunningly used the pockets...
Cunningly used the pockets, sir.

..to be like a little
flutter sleeve, OK?

But since they want a bit of
wow factor,

I am thinking of doing a bit
of boning

and making this stand out.

Don't make me say it, sir.

I saw the capes that I made
for my friend's wedding,

and so I thought,
"Going to make a cape."

This piece has got a really
lovely shoulder pad

so it'll give it some oomph.

You can see it on the catwalk,
swishing and going with the wind.

Well, what I'm going to do now
is to start to just bunch this up

on the shoulders, here,
to give me a ruched look.

So, it's probably going to be
some top.

It might become a dress
if I've got time.

I'm making a dress-type-thing,
whatever.

So, this is going to be the front
bust part.

So, let's see how that looks.

I want like a V line neck-thing,
band and a bit of a skirt.

Ooh, look at that.

It's going to be a dress.

It's going to have a big puffed
sleeve on the side.

With this, I'm going to try and
make her stand out

rather than disappear.

It's going to be a dress, basically.

A halterneck, and then netting
forming a long skirt.

And I kind of want to use
this cool label.

So, I kind of want to use
it for the front bit.

When I actually looked at these
panels, I liked the idea,

but I don't think I can get those
zips to line up.

After deciding on a skirt...

Can I make these pockets meet up?

..Adeena's now battling with its
construction.

OK, OK, OK, think, think, think.

I've put some straps on it,

so then I want to come round here
with some sort of skirty thing.

I just want to sort of create
something nice.

I'm not a chic guy.

So, now it looks like it's got
squarey and pointy shoulders.

It's got impact, hasn't it?

I have a plan and I'm happy
with my plan.

I'm not doing the skirt.

It was just basically not how
I wanted it to be.

So, the new plan is the top.

Sewers, you're halfway through!

They can't see me, can they?

So, I've gathered the sleeve.

About 50 metres wide.

I'm using the existing buttons
that are there.

I'll show them judges.

I'll give 'em sustainability.

# I don't know
but I asked the cleaner

# She said go and speak to Adeena. #

How are you?

Where'd you come out with all this?
I don't know.

I'm making a top.

Started off making a skirt and then
I've just changed my mind.

Did you? yeah.

You know that thing that Esme
was saying,

be economical with your stuff?

How's that gone?

30 minutes to go, sewers!

I want to go and just find
a bit of bling.

Orange always goes really
nice with camo.

I've finished the, like,
shell of my dress,

but I just want to add some of this
onto the bottom.

It's going to be interesting to sew.

So, I've just, er,
added some fringing.

It gives it that sort of
runaway look.

OK. Crap.

My front...

It's not lining up.

If I pull a panel down this side,

then I can seal the ends down
with the trimming.

Do you know what? Sewing Bee's a lot
harder than the army right now.

So, I'm just going to put this
over the top.

Almost like, you know how they have
the b*ll*ts?

It's like a sash, isn't it?
A b*llet sash, yeah.

I bet they call it that.
Used to have...

Where's my b*llet sash?

15 minutes!

You've added the trim.

I would say quite fashionable,
those two colours together.

Yeah. What I might do is neaten
out the fringing,

because it just didn't look right.

I wonder if there's anything I can
pad these sleeves with?

Some camouflage net, possibly?

Possibly some camouflage net.

Five minutes, sewers.

You can do this. You can do this.
You can do this.

I'm leaving all this raw
cos I think it looks chic.

Yeah?

It's simple, but hopefully it has
the wow factor.

I would like to think it's fitting
the chic brief.

Can I try it on?

And pose.

Yes. Yes!

Yeah?
Give it to me, Joe.

I'm quite pleased with it.

Famous last words.

Two minutes! Finishing touches!

Come on, Mummy. Help me.

This is it, last button.

Is that going to go over her?
Please, please.

That's all I can do,
and I can't do no more.

Attention!

Sewers, that is your time.

Bring your mannequins forward.

Left, right, up, down,
do the Hokey Cokey.

Ooh, it's got a frill! That's cool.

Once an army of military surplus,

now recycled into a regiment of chic
womenswear in a mere 90 minutes.

Well done, privates.

And well done, sewers.

It's time to bring the judges back.

Esme and Patrick haven't a clue
whose is whose.

Can you see any transformations,
Esme?

No. Not one.

We have an off the shoulder,
very asymmetric dress

with a huge sleeve.

The whole front edge has been bound
in this bright orange.

A judicious use of really bold trim
has really worked. Mm.

Yeah, I think it works really well.

I think it's dramatic.

I like how they've used the front of
the jacket

to make the front of the skirt.

And then we've got trim which I'm
not entirely sure about.

Don't think the colour
works very well.

It's also very shiny.

I would prefer the whole thing
if it wasn't there.

This person's gone to town.

So, effectively,
it's a sort of poncho, is it?

You could turn it into
a skirt and top.

It's rather potty.

They've stuffed the sleeves
with camo net.

That's just in case they need it.

Yeah, if you've got to bivouac
at night... Yes, yeah.

..and you've got to
camouflage yourself.

So, we have a halterneck dress.

I love these labels
on military clothes,

and then they've got a bit of
camouflage net

to create the length of a skirt.

I feel it's a bit obvious.

I think it's very wearable.

Maybe that's my problem.

It's too wearable.

Sort of feels a bit like
a tabard style. Yes.

I mean, there's some imaginative use
of the zip as a neck trim.

I'm not sure this does
very much for me.

What's the point of having
a fringing

and then sewing all the fringe down?

I agree.

They haven't thought it
through well enough.

We have a dress.

And cross straps at the back.

Their use of the sleeves,

that's pretty imaginative, actually.

I mean, that's the main interesting
part of this garment.

We've got an asymmetric hemline.

It's not very well cut and it's not
been hemmed at all,

unless they meant to leave it
very ragged at the bottom.

But I don't know why you would.

Doesn't feel quite like it knows
what it should be.

It's a cape. Yeah.
Yeah.

I mean, this looks like
a trouser leg.

I love the distress in this pocket.

What have we got under here?
Looks like wadding.

A pad from the original garment.

It's definitely very imaginative.

No, I like it.

I feel like putting it on
to see what happens.

Shall we?

OK. Here we go.

So, what's...
ESME CHOKES

What do you think?

It rather suits you.

Actually, it's quite dramatic.

You look terrific in it.

The judges must now rank
which camouflage garment

is victorious and which
must admit defeat.

In seventh place is the V-necked
tunic dress.

Adeena. Adeena, there were some nice
ideas on there,

but the shape of it was just a
little simple.

Thank you.
Well done.

In sixth place is the one
with the sleeves.

Rebecca. It was great, Rebecca,
and it was just...

They're all great, so it was really
difficult to choose.

That's fine. Thank you very much.

Damien is fifth.

Andrew, fourth.

And Serena is third.

In second place is...

..the one-sleeved top
with the orange trim.

Raph. It was great.

And very nice with the orange trim.

Thank you.

Which means, in first place
is our fabulous fringed cape.

Farie.
APPLAUSE

It's a fantastic idea.

I mean, it just made us
smile seeing it.

I mean, Esme looked great in it.

Well done.
Thank you.

That was amazing!

When Esme put it on, and she was
twirling in it as well,

I was just like, "Wow!"

I'm a little bit disappointed
to come sixth.

I think that there's three of us
that are probably

kind of nearish to the bottom.

I don't want to go home tomorrow.

I really feel that I still deserve
to be here.

If I'm going, I'm going.

So, I'm just going to enjoy
every moment now.

See where we get tomorrow.

# This ole house once knew
his children... #

How about you, Farie?
What's your strategy?

There's just one challenge left
before the judges decide

who gets Garment of the Week
and who goes home.

So, how are they getting on?

Adeena was last in both
challenges yesterday.

She gave herself a really big
challenge with the pattern,

but by leaving all of those
features in

she just made life difficult
for herself.

Consistently, I think Adeena fails
to plan carefully enough.

But there is not a huge gap between
her and those people above her.

Damien and Rebecca came sixth
and fifth and fifth and sixth.

So, they are not safe.

Who's doing very well?

Raph's doing very well.

Raph had almost as good a day as you
could possibly have.

His waistcoat was fantastic.

Serena had a good day yesterday.

She didn't win either challenge

but both were really
competently handled.

I mean, she's a really good sewer.

So, Made To Measure, as ever,
it all rests on what they do today.

It does.

Gloria, we ride again.

I need to up my game today.

The judges gave me sixth.
This needs to be good.

Welcome back, sewers.
Welcome back, models.

For this week's Made To Measure,
the judges would like you to take

some worn out jeans
and turn them into a woman's dress.

Doesn't matter if they've gone in
the crotch, cos haven't we all?

You have five hours
for this challenge.

Good luck. And your time starts now.

Right, what I'm going to do
is do some quick measurements.

The sewers were able to practise
this challenge at home...

I've practised this one before

so, hopefully I'm going to make
my model happy.

..but must now begin recycling their
hard-wearing denim garments...

There'll be a waistband coming here.

..into beautiful dresses
to fit their models.

I'd rather make it a bit long, then
I can always cut it off. Mm-hm.

That's it. Right, I'll get cracking
on my stuff now.

Now, judges, just like my lovers,
I keep my jeans

far longer than I need.

Why have you chosen them?

We have a very big problem with
the consumption of clothes

and textiles, and denim
is a big part of that.

It takes an awful lot of water
to grow the cotton.

They use fertiliser,
they use pesticides,

and we need to reduce the amount
we consume.

How do you expect them to combine
these garments?

Well, I think whatever they make,
they will have to patchwork.

The pieces aren't large. No.

You know, you couldn't make a dress
out of one leg -

or even four.

I want them to reclaim the textile
and to make something new and chic.

I wouldn't mind if they used
some of the features,

but they have to look part
of the design.

I'm jean-uinely excited to see what
they come up with.

That joke's going in landfill,
isn't it?

So, I got the jeans from Jean,

our previous sewer who left
on week two.

She's been kind to give me six pairs
of jeans that I needed for this.

Whilst the sewers' jeans might be
second generation...

All my jeans have come from
charity shops.

I think there's about six
charity shops.

..denim has been around
a lot longer.

Denim jeans first found fame
as workwear for the miners

in the 19th century Californian
gold rush,

who bought their jeans from a new
company called Levi Strauss.

These miners would spend months
living and working

in really rough, dangerous
conditions.

So, denim became popular
because it was the best fabric

to protect the skin.

And this toughness means that,
over 140 years later,

those miners' jeans can still be
found - if you know where to look.

Michael Harris hunts for treasure in
dangerous old gold and silver mines.

We started out looking for
whisky bottles,

but I came across an old jacket.

From there on, I never looked back.

These guys were using denim
for all sorts of things in a mine.

We found a denim leg scrap one time
wrapped around a steam pipe

that had been out in the elements
for 130 years.

So, denim is quite a tough material.

30 years after his first find,

Michael is enjoying his
profitable hobby

selling to specialist collectors.

Often the weight in these pants
are worth more than the gold

that they were mining back in the
days because they are so rare.

A good pair of jeans could
go for up to $30,000,

and Levi would possibly pay around
the $100,000 range.

Denim mining is treasure hunting.

A well worn pair of jeans to a lot
of people is a thing of beauty.

Morning, Damien. Morning.
Morning.

Where have all these jeans
come from?

So, all these denim jeans
that I've got are from friends

and family members.
Oh, that's nice.

Yeah. I notice one of them's got
paint all over it.

Yes, they're mine. They're...
Course they are.

They are my old work jeans
that I had for, you know,

doing jobs around the house,
painting fences,

changing bike oil, stuff like that.
So, they tell a story.

There's the story of your DIY
life right there.

That's it. Yeah, yeah.

With a fitted bodice
and flared skirt,

Damien's oil-splattered denim dress
will feature two pockets

and be top stitched with contrasting
gold thread for a striking finish.

Where did the oil come from, Damien?

So, the oil is from doing
my motorbike oil change.

Sure, yeah.
Yeah, yeah.

What sort of oil are you using?
Like, extra virgin olive, or...?

No, no, I think it's 10...
10-40, something like that.

10-40 Yeah, yeah. It's 10-40.
Yeah, I think it's standard.

What sort of bike do you keep
lubed up?

My motorbike's a Honda CBF125.

Er... Yeah. It sounds like a sewing
machine, actually.

What sound does it make?
Doo-doo-doo-doo-doo. Like that.

Oh, does it?
Yeah.

Ooh, I love the shape of this.

Whilst Damien's splashes are
accidental...

I want to use this red pair as the
key colour.

..Adeena is hoping to impress
the judges

with her hand-painted jeans.

Ooh, look what you're up to.

Did you paint this yourself?
Yes, I did.

The idea behind this is kind of
anything we have

within the Asian culture, even if
it's embroidery or anything,

it'll have a lot of the Paisley
shape in that,

which is what I wanted to portray.

It's great, I like it.
Yes, me, too!

Adeena's hand-painted Paisley motif
will be emblazoned

on the back of her A-line dress.

It will also feature an
invisible zip,

two front pockets and five different
colours of denim,

the assembly of which Adeena
is still working out.

OK, that I wanted facing that way...

..and I've got it that way.

It wouldn't matter, because then all
I'd do is put that one that way.

This is something that's kind of
quite spontaneous,

think on the spot, rather than
actually really having

a full idea of what I want to do.

It's really important to do well
after yesterday,

but at the same time
have fun, as well -

and that's how I end up
doing my best, as well.

Whilst Adeena is designing
on the fly...

This notebook is the only way
that I can keep on track

of what pieces I need to cut out
from what jeans.

..Serena is doing everything
by the book.

So, I'm basically doing a colour
block design,

and I'm using lots of blue toned
ones for one side

and then white and a sort of cream
toned for the other.

To create her A-line sports dress,

Serena has meticulously planned
the joining of 16 panels.

She'll also repurpose the waistbands
of her jeans

for both the cuffs and a band
connecting her lapels.

Hi, Serena. What do you think
of the Honda CBF125?

I actually don't know what that is.

She don't know what it is, mate.
No?

She doesn't know what it is.

She's a beautiful, thirsty girl.

Purrs like a sewing machine as she
meanders down country roads...

Oh, wow.
..near Bolton.

Wow. Can't believe you don't know
about her.

Well, now I do.
Now you do.

So, this is a front I've just cut,
so, that belongs...there.

To obtain the large amount of fabric
required to make a dress...

Wow, Andrew!
What?

There's so many pieces!

16.

..the sewers must patchwork together
multiple items of recycled denim.

This is all my pieces!

So, I think my pattern is quite
intricate,

cos it's got 16 strips at the front
and 16 at the back

that I'm assembling one by one.

And Raph's ambitious design...

I can't lose these pieces!

..will feature more pieces
than anyone else.

Well, this is pretty fascinating.

All of these different waved panels.

I love that you've kept
the edges raw.

Yeah, so, I'm going to fray it and
make it look like sea foam,

because you know how much water goes
into making one pair of jeans?

I wanted to focus on the sea
and make it a tormented sea.

Raph's complex halterneck dress
will include six contrasting

shades of blue and a patchwork whale

to highlight his
environmental message.

I think it's super ambitious.
Yes, I agree.

I hope it works as well as I imagine
it's going to work.

There are lots and lots of panels.
There's a lot.

So, lots and lots of work.
Yeah, lots to sew.

So, now I'm just starting to sew all
of the bodice seams together.

The more pieces the sewers have...
There's a lot of them.

..the more seams they'll need
to stitch.

It might look a bit tricky
because of the curves everywhere.

One of the trickiest bits
is going to be the points.

You've got to iron it after
every single one.

But it's a task made even harder
when using contrasting denims.

Cos they're all different colours,

it'll be very obvious if none of
them match up...

Trouble is, I'm going through a few
layers of denim here

so it's going to be a bit
difficult.

..and if they don't line up
the seams precisely...

Oh, no, no, no, no!

..they will ruin the fit and visual
impact of the dress.

Come on, come on, come on.

This is the front. The back will be
assembled symmetrically.

So the side seam will align.

Hopefully.

Actually, that's pretty good down
the back.

That's the basic structure.

One sewer taking a geometric
approach to his seams

is maths teacher Andrew.

I'm after a sort of nice,
crisp finish.

Where I've got right angled corners,
I want them to be right angled.

So, I have brought my trusty
set square in with me.

Andrew's spiral shaped dress
will feature a waistline

created by geometric herringbone and
will be decorated with rivets.

What maths have you used?

I've used a bit of Pythagoras
in there. Have you?

I have. Because my waistline
and my hemline,

and then 45 degrees between them,

so, I had a sort of right angle
triangle going on,

so, a bit of Pythagoras, yeah.
Wow.

But Andrew isn't the only sewer
going for top marks in geometry.

Andrew is doing herringbone,
as well,

but his is very different to mine.

His dress is constructed with the
herringbone going

all the way round, whereas mine's
a panel going all the way down.

With a fitted bodice and waist,

Rebecca's herringbone panel
will be framed

with lengths of blue denim and have
denim straps as a finishing detail.

They look very neat, don't they?
They are very neat, aren't they?

Yeah. Yeah. My mum and my nanna
both do patchworks.

They'd made a bag which is actually
my inspiration, here.

Ah, OK. Oh, right.
Yeah, very good.

Well, it's nice to bring a bit of
them into the garment.

Yeah, definitely.
Oh, no, it's brilliant to do that.

Yeah, thank you.
I like that a lot.

In search of a chicer look, Farie is
the only sewer not using blue denim.

I'm using black and white jeans.

The pattern definitely has
a zebra feel to it.

However, I'm thinking more
little black dress

with bits of white -
so, a bit more Chanel.

Farie's fitted sleeveless black
dress will feature

a diagonal monochromatic design

and be finished off with a full
length open ended zip.

If you're trying to make it formal,

you'd have the zip right
at the bottom.

If you're going out, obviously,
the zip goes up a bit more,

show a bit of leg.

This could be a real springboard
for you, actually.

Play your cards right, you could end
up in the window of Peacocks.

Hang on one second. Sewers,
you've had half your time!

Wow.
Oh, dear.

Great chatting.

These are my panels.

With their dresses now
taking shape...

Can you hold it somewhere here?

..the sewers check the all-important
fit for the first time.

I've got allowance on the side

so that I will be able to
trim to shape.

They will need enough fabric
to tailor a flattering fit

on their model's waist and hips.

I just need to take some of this
pulling out

because there's a bit of excess.

Don't want it too tight
on your hips.

Hope I haven't cut too much off.

But whilst the others have enough
recycled denim to work with...

It's big, but I knew it would be,
because I can fit it easier.

..Adeena has given herself
limited wiggle room.

OK, it's more fitted than
I actually thought.

This seam might give me
a bit of a problem.

I wanted it, I think,
a bit more of looser fitting,

but the main thing is I just want
to finish the garment.

So, I'm pretty happy with that,

and I just need to get a zip
in that side so it can close up.

I'm putting in an open ended zip.

The zip should sit there as an
exposed zip deliberately.

Whilst Andrew and Farie are leaving
their zips exposed...

It's more just as a feature.

..the other sewers are attempting
to hide theirs.

I'm inserting my invisible zip,

but they're just a wee bit
more fiddly.

That is now right next to the teeth.

That should've just been inside.
I can see the end of the zip.

I think they're going to say
something about my zip.

It's not installed properly -

but, you know, it's tough,
I can only do what I can do.

They're not my favourite Genes.

My favourite Genes are
Wilder and Simmons.

30 minutes to go, sewers.

OK, right.

I'm trying to make the waistbands
into a circle.

These are going to be on the bottom
of my sleeves

as a little cuff detail.

Not to be outdone...

Going to make one pocket
out of three pockets.

..Raph is also making the most
of his original features.

So, I'm going to have to unpick
three pockets,

reassemble them and do the same
with this side.

Cos I just want to make my life
more complex.

All right, bab.
Hello.

You might be able to help me.
Oh, yeah.

I'm trying to take out
these pockets.

I'm trying to pull them,
but it doesn't really work.

Shall I try?
Go on, try.

See if my big boy strength'll do it.

Oh, yes! Well done.

That felt so good.

Some pockets going on
this dress in a bit.

I've sewn them together.

Got three different denim colours.

They are following the curve
that's underneath.

Now I need to cut that whale.

15 minutes to go!

Come on, Adeena.

Straps is next.

I've got four pairs of jeans,
so I thought one in each colour.

I have done this whale myself.

So I can cut it in white and blue.

Having a whale of a good time.

It's got sleeves!

ADEENA: After this, I need to
straighten out the hem.

Topstitch central.

This is where the topstitch happens.

Each stitch has got to be perfect.

I'm patching the whale on top
of the front skirt,

which is tricky, cos it's curvy.

Five minutes, sewers!

Topstitching frenzy.

Let's get those models dressed.

Dive in.

So, we want this one to here.

Might take a bit more out of
that side, actually.

It's a wee bit big here.

On the back waist.

There's so much pressure.

Oh, there's a lot of that.

Is that OK on the neck?
Yeah.

Ooh! Ooh! Ooh!

Am I going to be able to do
much about the fit?

One minute to go, sewers!

Er...

Pressing.
Pressing, pressing, pressing.

Don't worry, sweetie, you will have
a garment to try on in a bit.

Right, I'm going to give it
a little press

because I can always chuck these
rivets on when it's on you.

I'm really pleased
with t' topstitching.

It looks dead neat. It's as neat
as I can get it, anyway.

Damien, you need to get
your model dressed.

OK. Sorry.

I have got no idea how that bit's
going to go over her hips.

Fits you a lot better
in the back now.

I'm quite happy with the fit,
you know.

Can I just do a quick seam here?
Yes.

Right, come on.

Needles up, that is your time!

No, no, no, needles are up.

Get your models ready, it's time
for your denim denouement.

That's it.

That's all I can do.

# When I wake up
in the morning light

# I pull on my jeans
and I feel all right

# I pull my blue jeans on

# I pull my old blue jeans on...

34 pairs of old denim jeans

recycled into seven made-to-measure
dresses in just five hours.

# It's the weekend
and I know that you're free

# So pull on your jeans
and come on out with me... #

I think it's a very, very
flattering shape.

It looks very young.

Overall, the fit
is absolutely first-rate.

You've got four different coloured
panels,

and if they hadn't been sewn
absolutely precisely

it would've stuck out
like a sore thumb.

I love that you've used
a bit of waistband

to form the end of the sleeve.

There's only one thing -

you've put all the flare
on the side seam.

This needs to go.

But I love the colours and your
sewing is great.

Thank you.

# You and me
we'll go motorbike ridin'

# In the sun and the wind
and the rain

# I got money in my pocket

# Got a tiger in my tank... #

ESME: I love that some of the bits
were you doing DIY.

Yeah.
I quite like all this muck.

I'm not sure why I love it
on a dress,

but I do quite like it.

We've got a contrast gold thread
through all

these dark indigo sections

and it's very, very visible
and it's very neat.

You've been very accurate,

how all these seams and the
different colours line up,

but it isn't so good here.

It's a little big at the back neck.

Your zip isn't beautifully put in.
Yeah.

And I'm not sure about the pockets.

I don't think it needed them.

I think it makes it look
a bit like an apron.

# Hip Teens

# Don't wear blue jeans

# Cos we're cool cats

# We got soul... #

I think it's great.

I love the graphicness of it

and I do love that you haven't
used blue.

I love the zip at the side,

the asymmetrical nature of it.

We've just got a little bit of
excess over the left hip,

but I'm being nit picky,
cos I think, overall,

it's very simple
but incredibly effective.

I really like the overall
design of it.

I think the selection of the denims
has worked incredibly well.

And I really like the rivets.

I really like that the zip is
also on a diagonal.

But I don't think the fit
is fantastic.

It's too big at the back

and you've got a lot of different
seams there

you could've played with
to create a better fit.

# Straight lines
that cut through the scene

# Like you wanted to, blue jeans

# Soft loans
that spent all last summer... #

Well, Rebecca, one thing
I really love is this front panel.

It comes from your mother
and your grandmother's

patchwork bags they make.

And I just think that's fabulous.

This is so difficult
to do accurately.

You've got so many angles in here,

and every one of them
is absolutely precise.

OK, turn around.
It's a bit long in the back.

If you'd taken some out,
it would have fitted better.

# Cos it's Saturday night
and I'm feelin' fine

# I'm gonna rock it up

# I'm gonna rip it up

# I'm gonna shake it up

# Gonna ball it up... #

Adeena, I really
like the combination of colours,

and I like the patchwork effect very
much. And I love the painted denim.

I think it's really smart.

You haven't hidden
the top of the zip.

Also, I think it is
too tight over her bum.

It makes it look like the waist
is too low,

but it isn't, it is just stuck,
and that is a shame.

But I love that you've related
what you made to who you are.

Thank you.

# I left my soul there

# Down by the sea

# I lost control here

# Living free... #

I think it's absolutely stunning.
I love it.

It's so beautiful.
The story of it is wonderful.

I think the execution,
it's completely original.

I've never seen it before.

I love your referencing the sea,

and we've even got a whale here.

And how many pieces are there?

16 for the front, 16 for the back.

And, then, the whale and two
patch pockets at the back.

Wow.

I love that you've given us
the raw edges.

It feels just like a little froth of
sea foam on the edge of every piece.

There is so much brilliant thought

that has gone into every
bit of this garment.

It looks absolutely couture.

I mean, I would put something
like this down a catwalk

and be very proud of it.

Really, so well done.

Thank you.
You messed up big time.

Again. Go and sit down
and think about what you've done.

Well done, sewers,
go and have a break.

The judges will deliberate
and we'll come back

and find out who has won
Garment of the Week

and who is going home. Well done.

This was the week I really,
really wanted to get to,

but now I've got to this week,
I really want to get to next week.

I don't know whether I've done
enough to stay in or not

but they like the oil.

Who doesn't like a bit
of oil on jeans?

I'd love to stay. But...

I don't know.

Well, sewers, we've made it through
reduce, re-use, recycle week

and I'm fairly sure we've saved
the planet - so, well done, us.

Two final things to do. One nice
one, let's start with that. Patrick.

Our Garment of the Week
this week is...

I mean, I've sort of run out
of superlatives for this garment.

It's just so fabulous in
so many ways. Congratulations.

I'm really humbled. Thank you.

OK. Now, for the not so nice bit.

Somebody has to go home.

To that person, you've made it
you've made it way over halfway,

which is a huge achievement.

And I can reveal that that
person is...

..Adeena.

I knew that.

It's been absolutely amazing here.

Seriously, you guys, hats off
to you. You're absolutely amazing.

And you guys...

I will really miss you.

Thank you.

I'm really sad Adeena is going home.

I really liked how she brought
personal things

that really meant a lot to her
to what she made.

I am so proud of myself.

You sometimes don't know your inner
abilities,

and week after week,
drama after bloody drama,

it's always that willpower
and that push

that you can give to yourself to
say not to give up and keep going.

Occasionally,
on the Great British Sewing Bee,

a sewer delivers a garment of such
wonderful imagination

and such exquisite skill

and Raph's made-to-measure told the
story in such a wonderful way

of why we need to treat the
planet with much greater respect.

Yeah, I did get a bit emotional.

I got goose bumps all over
and, um, nearly cried.

But I think I didn't realise I put
so much of me in this garment.

Holding it, not crying on TV.

Still here!

Bloomin' heck.

I was actually saying to Serena
before,

I said, I'm actually
a fantastic sewer

but I'm just playing it down a bit

cos I want to give you guys
a bit of a chance.

Next time, the heating is
back on for winter week...

Brrrr!

..with a pattern
perfect for a lumberjack...

What axe do you use, mate?

Oh, one with a big handle.

..a bitterly cold wrap battle...

All I'm thinking about
is scarf, scarf, scarf, scarf.

..and festive made-to-measure
party frocks.

What more can you add? Snow?

Who will dance their way
to the quarterfinal...

..and who will be frozen out?

Oh, my gosh.

It's disaster central here.