06x07 - Episode 7

[bunniefuu]

MUSIC: When Will I Be Famous?
by Bros

Oh, hi!

Our six remaining sewers are about
to travel back to the 1980s.

Expect big, bold colours and even
bigger shoulder pads.

I missed it the first time round as
I hadn't been created,

so I'm just now catching up with
some of the fads.

I'm listening here
to a "Sony Walk Person"

and this is a filet-o-fax!

Absolute rubbish.

Right, if you don't mind,
I'm going to listen

to When Will We Be Famous?
by "Brohs".

Welcome to The Great British
Sewing Bee.

# When will I, will I be famous? #

Last time...

All the fabric's gone!

..second-hand clothes led to a
Sewing Bee first...

Maybe give up?

No surrender!

..TWO garments of the week!

Therese got herself in a jumble...

I've sewn it back the wrong way.

..but Peter's witchy winter dress...

It's not going to be pretty.

..failed to enchant...

I just don't think the execution has
lived up to the original idea.

..and he became the sixth sewer to
leave.

Now...

# It's making your mind up... #

..it's back to the 1980s...

Money, money, money, excess!

More is more.

..with a powerful Pattern
Challenge...

Look at the size of these shoulder
pads!

That's, like, next level, isn't it?

..a hi-vis to high-energy
transformation...

Were loose threads a thing
in the '80s?

..and the most decadent
Made to Measure yet.

That's a big bow.
Yeah, they're big, aren't they?

Whose quarterfinal hopes will boom?

I own 51% of this company.

And whose will go bust?

It's not going to work.

# ..will I be famous? #

Yay! '80s Week!

It's a week I've
been looking forward to.

I think there may be
a shoulder pad or two.

In my mind, the '80s are all
about excess of everything.

Some of the things we wore,
what were we thinking?

# I just can't get enough... #

I had my hair permed.

I'm amazed I've still got hair on
my head.

I was a bridesmaid and I had to wear
a Bo-Peep-style dress.

It was disgusting.

Sorry, Auntie Carol!

Cowabunga!

Come forward, everyone!

How are we?
Are we excited for this week?

Yeah. Good.

I'm excited because
it's '80s Week!

Leotards, legwarmers...

..and Linford Christie.

All of which I'd be delighted to see
in my wardrobe.

Esme, tell us about the Pattern
Challenge.

Right.

There you go.

CONTESTANTS: Oh!

What you've got is
a ladies' power jacket

with big lapels
and very dramatic shoulders.

Brilliant.

So you'll need to choose
a suitable tailoring fabric.

We want to be transported back to
the '80s

with your power jacket,

so think Margaret Thatcher,
Princess Di, Joan Collins.

I love a shoulder pad.

These g*ns need shade.

You have four hours for this
challenge, and your time starts now.

MUSIC: Blue Monday by New Order

Oh! Oh!
Oh, how about this one?

Oh, that's amazing!

Both amazing and vile.

If it's vile, then it's probably
about right

for the '80s, isn't it?

Choosing the right fabric
not only means

embracing the '80s
in all its garish glory...

I'm just thinking,
"What did I wear?"

..but also choosing a textile
that holds its shape...

I want something that's going
to press.

..to achieve the power jacket's
iconic silhouette.

Look how big those
shoulder pads are!

They're massive! You've got two
pairs of them!

THEY GIGGLE

# How does it feel? #

Exuding femininity and authority,

the power jacket came to
define an era when women

shouldered their way to the top.

Now, power jackets, whenever I think
of these, I think Grace Jones.

Joan Collins.

Margaret Thatcher.

My ideal dinner party.

Tell me, why have you chosen this?

Well, this was kind of
iconically '80s.

This big, oversized, enlarged,

really kind of
powerful-looking silhouette.

Like a triangle - so you had
a tiny, weenie waist

and great big shoulders.
I mean, they're whopper.

Is it a difficult garment to make?

It's the first tailoring challenge
we've given them.

So this lapel here
needs to be perfectly managed.

It's also incredibly important
how they put their sleeves in

because the shoulder pads will
show up any imperfections

and I think the choice of fabric
also will be key.

If it were me, I would choose
a fabric that had good

structure and pressed well. Yes.

The pressing is absolutely key

so you get a nice sharp shape
to the jacket.

Right. Shall we go and find
out more about the '80s?

They had steam trains, right?

I was a child in the '80s.

My mother didn't have a power
anything.

She was a humble housewife.

She had a power spoon, I suppose.

Did you wear this sort of thing
in the '80s? Power jackets?

I do remember having a royal blue
one of these. Did you?

With a big gold... Brooch?
..brooch thing and big earrings

and bangles... God, I'm glad I was
dead most of that time. Yeah.

Right. Power jacket.

Let's have a look at this.

The sewers' first foray into
tailoring,

the power jacket is made from 14
pieces of fabric.

The front panels are shaped with
darts

and joined to the back
with side panels.

Then the sleeves are inserted,

followed by the facings,

which sit inside the jacket and are
turned out to become the lapels.

Finally, shoulder pads,
a buttonhole and button are added

to complete a jacket fit
for boardroom battles.

Good morning.
Morning. Good morning!

Ooh! I like this.

What is this? It's synthetic.

It may have some wool in it
because it does press a bit.

I do like the colour, though.

I'm channelling my grandma
with this jacket.

She was a very sort of
Mrs Thatcher-esque... Right.

..in the '80s, with the
big hair and the handbag,

but I can imagine her wearing
this and bossing people around.

Yes, I'm loving
the mental picture of that one.

Like Clare,

Matt, Liz and Mark
have all chosen fabrics

that blend synthetics with wool...

I found a superbly juicy fabric
for this.

It feels very '80s to me.

..and the more wool, the better
they'll hold their shape.

I think this is power-jacket fabric.

The secret of
good tailoring is pressing

so it doesn't need to have
that stiffness to it.

I think it's a good choice.

But two sewers have chosen more
challenging

fabrics to work with.

It's a satinised cotton.

Every ruck and bump will show,

so I've got to be
quite careful with it.

It's a newscaster's jacket.

Angela Rippon, and she would
wear it on St Patrick's Day

because it's emerald green.

I found the PVC.

I went for black and red,
colour block...

Talk us through that decision.

You no likey?

I mean, I like the look of it!

And it looks very '80s.

Yeah. But...

..have you sewn much of this before?

A bit. OK. Yes.

I just wanted to go full-on '80s

and I know it's not
tailoring fabric.

Have you tried pressing it?

Er, I've just heated up the iron
to do that. Right, OK.

Well, "good luck" is all I can say.

No, I think if you nail it,
it'll look fantastic

but it's not going to be easy.

Yeah.

As I cut everything out - so darts -

take the front jacket piece, pin the
dart in place and sew it together.

Let's do that, then.

So you're wanting to
show off the figure.

Running between bust and waist,

the front darts help give
the jacket its feminine shape.

The risk is always of
getting a pointy dart end

which, in the bust area,
is usually not good,

although in this era might,
er, channel Madonna.

I've got to be really careful
with the accuracy.

This is the walking foot.

Whenever the needle goes up
and down, the foot goes with it.

I'm using it for this fabric just
because it's quite sticky.

No matter how well sewn...

So I've just pressed my darts out.

..the darts won't create a smooth,
elegant line

unless they're completely flat.

I have to have all the seams
all crisp and clean and sharp,

especially in the '80s.

So I'm just using this cloth
to protect it

because I'm terrified if
I put actual heat onto it

it would just be
molten...bubbling plastic.

Patrick and Esme are
a bit nervous for me,

like a very concerned mum and dad.

"Did you make the right
choice, Nicole?

"We're not sure about this, Nicole."

But, you know, I've been hearing
that all my life.

So that's my front dart, there.

Looking good.

Not too Madonna-ish.

All right. How's that looking?

Ghastly!

Needs a couple of goes.

This is quite resilient fabric.

Getting it to lie flat is really,
really important.

"Now take your front jacket pieces,

"pin right side to right side
of side seams."

Try saying THAT quickly.

I need to line everything up

and it's got to meet
at the armholes correctly.

Well, Mark... Hello!

..I don't know what I was expecting
for your fabric choice.

I was channelling Cilla.

She liked a bit of sparkle
in a power jacket.

She certainly did.

AS CILLA BLACK: Surprise, surprise!

That's what she used to say,
isn't it? What else did she say?

A lorra, lorra!
A lorra, lorra!

I'm spending my whole life pressing!
It's depressing.

I'm going iron this again.
It's not very keen on lying flat.

They're not going to like that.
Think I'm way behind already.

So just need to crack on now.

You have one hour remaining, sewers!

MUSIC: Fascination
by The Human League

I've got a body!

OK...

Just attaching all the
different panels together.

I'm just conscious time's ticking.

You doing side panels?
Me, too. Yeah.

So you're not that far behind,
don't worry.

Or we're both far behind!

THEY LAUGH

It's all about the sleeves,
which are going to be some of

the most visible structural bits.

# Keep feeling fascination... #

I could definitely see Esme
wearing a power jacket

with probably
the biggest shoulder pads -

even bigger than Princess Di's
or Margaret Thatcher's.

This kind of sleeve, or any sleeve,
really, is trying to ease

it into the body.

Once you're putting two different
curved pieces in together,

you've got one bit bigger
than the other,

so you've got to ease them in.

It's about matching the notches,
so here I've got this notch.

With huge shoulder pads to
accommodate...

Oh, man. This is tricky.

..if the ease isn't in exactly
the right place...

I've got to ease
that bit into there.

..the pads may not fit
and they won't achieve

the jacket's distinctive shape.

Do you know,
I haven't done the notches.

I did mark the notches.

I think it's correct.

Sewing in sleeves is, like,
my least favourite thing ever!

Pretty good.

Like the other one.

They're big shoulders, aren't they?

I mean, look at the size
of these shoulder pads.

That's, like, next level, isn't it?

Sticking gigantic shoulder pads into
everyday clothes

might seem like
a surreal thing to do

and, back in the 1930s,
it actually was!

The modern shoulder pad

was introduced to fashion by
the experimental Italian

designer Elsa Schiaparelli.

She was interested in philosophy
and arts and collaborated

with surrealist artists such as
Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau.

Schiaparelli loved experimenting
with women's shapes,

including the use
of the shoulder pad.

This became known as "Hard Chic".

These designs redefined
women's shape

and pushed contemporary ideas
of femininity.

A more traditionally feminine look
came to dominate women's fashion

after the Second World w*r

but, 30 years later,
the shoulder pad was back.

MUSIC: Relax
by Frankie Goes To Hollywood

The 1980s broke the mould of
everything that had gone before.

There were economic booms

but also economic uncertainty.

Women are now coming out
into the workplace

and the career is important.

You needed something that showed
that you,

as a woman, meant business.

One designer at the forefront of
power dressing was Giorgio Armani

but it was his sister, Rosanna,
who convinced him to restyle

his men's power jacket for women.

It had big shoulders,
so it looked assertive.

It had big lapels.

No more little skirt and cardigans.

No! You're going to wear
an executive's suit!

It was an instant success,
not only in business

but in politics, in entertainment.

It showed you were a player -
a player on a new field,

in a new game -
and you were going to win.

Sewers! You have half an hour
remaining.

God.

So apparently a Filofax is
like an old iPhone.

Hello?

It's looking very power suit-y,
innit?

Back neck facing.

So not on my facings!

I'm only getting
the first sleeve in.

I'm miles away.

Absolutely miles away.

Ga-a-ah!

God! Everything I'm going to
make from now on

is going to be sleeveless.

There's just a bit of manhandling
that needs to happen.

Well, a facing will finish
the garment just on the inside.

Usually the bits that may just be
visible.

So, in this case, it's the big
dramatic lapel.

So what will happen is you turn
that the other way,

it'll cover the raw edge.

As the facings will be turned out
to form the lapels,

the neater they're inserted,
the sharper they'll be.

This is one of those edges that,
if you don't press it outright,

it's super noticeable.

The sleeve's going in quite nicely.
Bit behind.

But I'm not going to panic about it.

I'm trying to be careful not to
stretch the fabric.

Just want to get the sleeve in
because I need to just move on now.

I'm just going to stretch this
to oblivion.

15 minutes, sewers!

Oh, blimey!

Trying to speed up a bit.
Still quite a bit to do.

Pin hems. Hand stitch!

I like hand stitching...

..but not at speed.

This is the facing that's going on.

God, I don't even know when I'm
going to get to

the shoulder pad bit yet.
I was quite looking forward to that.

Are these the shoulder pads? Yep.

Stop. Yeah!

Look at that!

Ooh... Ooh! Does that...?

Ooh... Er...

It kind of looks like you've had
a bit of an accident, actually.

Yeah, I, er, I fell off a bike
and dislocated my shoulder, so...

Just pop it back in!

Thank you.

"Hand sew two shoulder pads
together.

"There are two shoulder pads
for each shoulder."

It's unheard of, isn't it?

Got to get them in the right place.

I'm not even reading
the instructions any more.

They get sewn into
the seam allowance.

I think my shoulder pads
might be a bit wonk.

Five minutes, sewers!

Ah! It's final touches, please.

The home straight. Bring it home,
baby, bring it home.

I'm just turning out the lapels.

I don't think I'm going to finish,
unfortunately.

Might be just enough time to get
a button and a button hole on.

It's an enormous button...

I'm not sure if sewing this on
with red thread is the best choice.

Beautiful.

One minute, sewers!
Jackets on mannequins, please!

That looks bad.

Maybe Michael Jackson - Bad?

Let's go for that!

Quickly, quickly...

These shoulders are just obscene!

I want to put it on.

Oh, they are big, aren't they?

Give it a good press.

Oh, my goodness!
That looks amazing.

I own 51% of this company!

LAUGHTER

God!

Needles up! That is your time!

Grab your mannequins
by the shoulders

and bring them forward, please.

Well done.

What a cool, crazy jacket!

MUSIC: The Look Of Love by ABC

# That's the look, that's the look

# The look of love

# That's the look, that's the look

# The look of love... #

Six '80s power jackets
made in just four hours.

Plug them in,
you could boil a kettle.

Clare, come forward.

# That's the look, that's the look

# The look of lo-o-ove

# Look of love! #

I think the shape of this
is really great.

It's absolutely captured
the '80s power jacket.

It's really got that silhouette
of the big shoulder

and the tiny waist.

The sleeves look pretty well in.

That's the shape
we were looking for.

Lacks just that final press.

The front edge has been really well
controlled.

You don't have any of the jacket
rolling round to the front

of the facing, which is great.

The shoulder pads look well put in.

Would you wear it?

I did wear it in the last 30
seconds.

I think you've done a good job.

# You're too shy, shy

# Hush, hush, eye to eye

# Too shy, shy

# Hush, hush

# Eye to eye. #

I do really love your choice
of fabric and your button.

Something has gone awry
with your shoulder pads.

This one's higher than this one
and it's because the shoulder pad

isn't in place.

This one is better because the pads
are into the sleeve head

and they're taking up that fullness
in the top of the sleeve.

Another thing is the pitch
of the sleeve.

It's definitely running back,
and most humans' arms...

..run the other way.

So you haven't properly
matched up the notches. Yep.

# I wanted to be with you, alone

# And talk about the weather. #

I love your button.

Interesting, the colour
thread you used.

What colour is it? Red.

The shoulder pad here
is in from the seam

but it should be at the end
of the seam allowance.

I think, if you had got
the shoulder pads over,

it would have filled out
that sleeve head.

At the moment, it looks like that
sleeve head is collapsing.

But, overall, I think you've done
a good job.

MUSIC: Enola g*y by OMD

The obvious thing to say is
you were a long way from finished.

Yes, I was.

You haven't got a button
and a button hole.

Oh... They're not sewn in, no.

Shoulder pads are not attached.

No.

And because you haven't
given it the press it needs,

we aren't seeing that beautiful
shape that we wanted.

It's a shame because you've inserted
that sleeve, actually, very nicely.

So once you get the pad
where it's supposed to be,

you see how well it's sitting. Yeah.

I just was too slow.

Yes, I'm afraid you were.

And I'm not going to reiterate...
No. ..about the shoulder pads.

I'll take it away now.

Sorry.

MUSIC: True by Spandau Ballet

# I kno-o-ow this
mu-u-uch is true. #

I think you've made a really good
choice of fabric

and this button
is very, very '80s.

It looks really nicely made.

Your shoulder pads
are in the right place,

just at the end of
the seam allowance.

The shape of the sleeve is
really lovely, as well. Yes.

And the pitch is really good on both
sleeves.

You've handled all the seaming so
nicely.

That dart is beautifully pressed.

It's just falling nicely.

You've got a lovely suppression
on the waist.

It's beautiful and smooth over the
bust.

It's exactly how it should look.

MUSIC: Notorious by Duran Duran

# Notorious! #

This PVC does look very '80s.

I remember having black and red
duvets and black and red wallpaper.

You've got no red showing through
the front of that black lapel.

It's difficult with a contrast

and you've controlled
that edge really nicely.

But it's the wrong choice of fabric.

This pattern was designed
for a fabric that was softer.

It is hard to sew this stuff.

Getting it to press, I mean,
the seams are all fighting.

They're springing out.

And it looks to me that something
strange has happened.

Can you see? It stretched.

Esme and Patrick will now rank
the jackets from last to first.

In sixth place...

..is Therese. Yes.

And you know why, Therese.
Absolutely.

You're not finished.
No, it wasn't great.

In fifth place, it's Nicole.

Not finished.

Not a great choice of fabric.

In fourth place is Mark

and third is Liz.

In second place...

..is Clare.

I mean, you've done
a really good job.

Great choice of fabric.

Which means, in first place,
it's Matt.

Yay!

Well done! Well done, well deserved.

Very good.

Matt, it's the very epitome
of the '80s power jacket.

Beautiful sewing,
beautiful choice of fabric.

It just looks fabulous. Well done.

Well done, Matt.
Well done, everyone.

A tough challenge, that one.
Go and have a cup of tea,

and we'll come back for the
Transformation Challenge.

# Nothing ever lasts forever... #

That was really good.

Really, really, really happy.

Orange is obviously my colour
this week!

I think Cilla would be
very proud of the jacket.

I'm sure she'd wear it,
just with a few tweaks.

Why shouldn't a power jacket
be made out of pleather

with un-pressable seams?

Presenting a garment that I'm not
happy with is mortifying.

I will do my best in the
transformation, and who knows?

I might get inspiration
and pull it off.

# Everybody wants
to rule the world. #

For their next '80s challenge,

the sewers are leaving
the boardroom behind

and hitting the disco.

OK, guys, it's time for
the Transformation Challenge.

The '80s were a decade of
transformations.

For example, it's when my parents
turned from just ordinary people

into the parents of a superstar.

Patrick, tell us about
the challenge.

Well, we don't want you
to play this one safe.

DISBELIEVING LAUGHTER

It is, of course, hi-vis clothing,

which we would like you to transform
into an '80s-style party outfit.

You've got vest,
trousers, polo shirts.

You can choose any three items.

I'm going to send
the judges away now.

One, so that they don't know whose
is whose

and, two, because they have a
mammoth game of Donkey Kong

to finish on the Commodore 64.

Good luck!

They don't know what I just said.

All right-y!

You have 90 minutes for this
challenge and your time starts...

..now.

MUSIC: Take On Me by a-ha

Oh, my!

They're enormous.

This is actually hurting my eyes.

I do love bright colours and you
know I do love a good contrast.

I've worn a hi-vis jacket when I did
litter collections for the village.

I'm trying to think...

What can I do?!

# Take on me... #

In the optimistic '80s,
the rise of MTV saw a new wave

of fluorescent-clad partygoers
demanding to be seen,

inspired by the technicolour pop
heroes on their tellies.

Now, I'm thinking, Wham!,

Frankie Goes To Hollywood.

For me, it was all about boxy shapes
on the top,

lots of sleeveless,
lots of scooped-out necks...

Rah-rah skirts, boob tubes...

People wore really coordinated
outfits

and I want it to look coherent.

It wants to look graphic, geometric.

It wasn't embellished.

What I don't want to see is loads of
sparkle and all the rest of it.

I think, you know,
it's about using the colours.

They can play with the orientations.

They can panel things in
to turn safety wear

into an '80s-inspired party outfit.

Looks nice, doesn't it?

Parties in the '80s?

If I wasn't at work, I
was at home with my children,

so I wasn't a party animal.

I'm going to start making a little
narrow vest-y thing

that goes over the top.

I'm going to go and have a look for
some sequins, glittery bits.

Hi, Clare. Hello.

Do you think I make
a convincing foreman?

As long as you don't speak, yes.

FAUX DEEP VOICE: What you up...
What you making there, darling?

I'm making a ruffled skirt.
Oh, yeah?

I've ruffled a...few...feathers
in my time,

if you know what I mean.

NORMAL VOICE: Erm, what
else are you...doing?

I'd really like to make an
'80s-style bustier

to actually cover up your bosom.

Oh.

DEEP VOICE: I've heard
of them, yeah.

Thinking a kind of one-shouldered
ruching somewhere.

In the '80s,

the parties I was going to were
kiddies' parties, really.

I remember wearing really big, wide,
elastic skirts.

An expl*si*n of colour.

I'm, like, a child
of the Goth '90s.

Definitely was never into neon.

I'm going to make a little top and a
little skirt.

It's going to have a sweetheart
neckline,

which is kind of like that.

I'm just thinking roller discos,
that kind of thing.

So I'm trying to restyle the T-shirt

and then I'm going to fashion
a pair of short shorts.

Hello there, sir.

Hello. Just from BBC Risk
Assessment.

Can I ask what you're doing today?

Well, I'm making a boob tube...
Boob tube? ..for breastfeeders.

Boob tube for breastfeeders.

And any potential hazards?

A boob could pop out.

A boob...could pop out...

Any other hazards?

There's nothing at the bottom
at the moment, so, er...

Nothing at the bottom.

At the moment?
At the moment. So there might be?

Hopefully! OK.

Sewers! You have an hour remaining!

Can't have that camera there, mate.

Can't have that camera, it's a
hazard. All right?

Well, I've found some
lovely pink netting.

It'll make it look a bit more
'80s. My husband, Clive...

The very first drunk text
I got from him

was when he came to London doing
roller disco

and he phoned me at about
one o'clock in the morning

and told me he loved me.

# I should be so lucky

# Lucky, lucky, lucky. #

I want to gather a lot of fabric
onto the skirt

so that it rah-rahs

and I might put an extra layer on
the bottom.

Given it a little sweetheart
neckline.

I'm just going to get this
monstrosity gathered up.

As soon as I was old enough
to make my own decisions

on what I was wearing,

there was very little frill.

The ruching's gone OK.

Took a few kind of goes cos
the thread just kept snapping.

Right, I've just put some fringe
to go along the T-shirt.

I don't know if this is going
to work.

I'm making a top.

I need to put some sequins there.

This looks like a high-risk thing.
I'm just going to write this down.

Sewers! You have 15 minutes
remaining!

Let's get this bad boy finished...

I'm just seeing how much fabric
I have to do this bubble skirt.

A spiral-stitched cone boob!

Well, they're kind of iconic '80s.

I've got some slightly
indecent shorts now.

I have layered up this several
times.

It is going to be a rah-rah skirt,
maybe, or...something.

I've no idea.

You know Bucks Fizz,
where they whipped off the skirt?

So, basically, it's...

# ..making your mind up! #

But now I've got to make a tiny
secondary skirt underneath.

Sewers! You have ten minutes
remaining!

Oh! Good Lord...

I've just... I've realised, I think
this looks a bit Tinker Bell.

I might put a star
or something on here.

Maybe, like, applique.

Bit of applique.

This is the under skirt.

Just making the panels underneath
a little bit more interesting.

Ultra-reflective.

I mean, if you got run over
wearing this,

you'd be very unlucky.

Ah! But do you think the baby'll
get confused and go,

"Oh, that looks like a friendly
face"? Probably.

Just gathering up
the bottom of my skirt.

Like a puffball.

Oh! That's very Madonna.

Five minutes, sewers!

Final touches!

Woohoo! Plenty of time.

Go, go, gadget machine!

Oh, God, go over
the shoulders, please.

Too late now to do anything else.

Were loose threads a
thing in the '80s?

Come on!

Come on...

Needles up!

That is your time!

Bring your mannequins forward
for an '80s party!

Let's get this t*rture over.

Oh, my God.

I LOVE your disco shorts.

Mine would probably fit me, as well.

These look like a good party.

# You spin me right round, baby,
right round

# Like a record, baby

# Right round, round, round... #

Hi-vis safety wear transformed
into '80s neon party outfits.

I say!

And the judges have no idea
whose is whose.

Well, I really love the shorts.

I like that they've
chopped and sort of

cut and shut bits together -
you know,

inserted this panel in the side out
of the net.

I'm not sure about the sequins, but
I like how they've placed

this fluorescent tape. Yeah.

It looks really imaginative.

So I wish they'd done a really
similar thing on the top.

Then it would have felt like it
was... Connected. ..connected.

This one I really like.

It's simple but incredibly bold.

The skirt fits nicely.

I quite like these colours together.
Yeah.

I love the blue with the grey.

And they've really
thought about this.

Love that the cones are vivid neon
yellow on the pink.

The '80s was about simple,

quite kind of clunky
graphic references

and that fulfils that brief for me.

It's like a puffball, isn't it?

But not quite.

Raw edges don't feel
very '80s to me.

Normally folded in. Yeah.

I kind of wish, colour-wise,
maybe this'd match.

It's neither chic
nor completely mad.

It falls between two stools
a little bit for me.

MUSIC: Never Gonna Give You Up
by Rick Astley

ESME LAUGHS

That's very useful. VERY useful.

I'm almost wondering why they needed
the laser-cut tape on there.

I like that it's strapless...

..but I think it's a bit long.

It isn't, like, the super-tight
pencil skirt

that would be quite '80s.

Nor is it a fun, Bananarama-y
kind of skirt.

# Never gonna give you up

# Never gonna let you down... #

Well, this feels 1980s to me.

I think that asymmetric top

and a bit of ruching...

Somebody's done a lot of work here.

I'm not very keen on this edge.

I don't think it needed it.
I don't think it needs it, either.

It's got too much going on.

# For making your mind up

# For making your mind up! #

Ooh, la, la!

I do like the Bucks Fizz reveal.

Yes.

This feels quite gladiator,
but very safe gladiator.

What is it?

Is it a skirt or a pair of shorts?

Well... I mean, it's...
..it's peplum.

It's rather short.

I'm not sure about these sequins,
actually.

I don't think it needs it.

And sequined tassels doesn't feel
'80s to me at all. No.

Patrick and Esme will now rank
the garments from last to first.

In sixth place....

..it's the Bucks Fizz
tasselled number.

Therese.

Despite the Bucks Fizz references,

the tassels and the sequins
didn't feel very 1980s. OK.

In fifth place...

..it's the green puff skirt.
Liz.

We felt it kind of didn't go
together.

Matt's in fourth place

and Nicole is third.

In second place...

..it's the shorts.

Mark.

The shorts were fabulous.

That whole panelling, the laser cut
over the reflective,

was really terrific.

Thank you.

So there's only one left.

It's the conal top!

Clare.

Really simple but really striking.

It has that '80s feel.

# Do you really want to hurt me? #

Yay!

It feels good to come first.

I feel I've been always
the bridesmaid,

never the bride.

They didn't want sequins which,
you know,

there WERE sequins in the '80s.

It's ten years!

People did wear sequins!

There's just one more
'80s challenge.

One last chance for the sewers to
secure a place

in the quarterfinals.

Now this is your second time
through the 1980s.

Let me guess what you were doing
the first time, Esme.

Were you a miner?

Yes! How did you know?!

Just a little guess.

So who's done well this week?

Clare's transformation nailed the
brief.

It was really graphic, really fun,

and her Pattern Challenge was
beautifully sewn.

Matt had a great Pattern Challenge.
Yeah.

Fabulous fabric, really nicely made.

Who's in danger?

Well, Theresa was bottom
in both challenges.

She'd struggled with the jacket.

Well, it wasn't finished.

And her Transformation Challenge,
sequins.

It doesn't look at all
'80s to me.

Who's down there with her?

Nicole made a very bad choice
of fabric for her jacket.

So I think Nicole and Theresa's
needs to be exceptional

and I think somebody else
needs to have a bad day.

# To cut a long story short

# I lost my mind. #

The sewers have been able to
practise

their final '80s garment at home

but now they'll have to perfect
the fit on their models.

Welcome back, sewers, and hello,
models.

Welcome to the 1980s.

Make yourselves at home.

It's the Made to Measure
and the judges today

would like you to make an '80s
c*ck dress.

So something that you might have a
Mai Tai with,

a Martini, or MY favourite c*ck,

a snakebite.

You have five and a half hours for
this challenge

and your time starts...now.

Let's take your proper measurements.

Let's try the front first.

And then hip.

# You were working as a waitress
in a c*ck bar... #

I don't normally do
women's c*ck dresses,

it wouldn't be my bag.

I've never made
a c*ck dress before.

Usually I have c*ck
on holiday, actually,

wearing a pair of shorts
and a T-shirt.

# Don't, don't you want me? #

By the late '80s, a booming
economy

meant fashion became yet another way
for yuppies to flash the cash.

And, in response, designers like
Christian Lacroix

gave the knee-length c*ck dress
a suitably ostentatious revamp.

What would you like to see in your
dream c*ck dress? Is it me?

The '80s was a period that was
about excess

and I think the c*ck dresses of
that period reflect that.

The shapes were exaggerated.

There was big features, big
sleeves...

Bows. Hm.

Lots of shiny fabrics, too.
Lurex, satin...

What's the key thing with a fit?

It was always tight on the waist,
big shoulders, peplum.

I mean, basically,
you've got a triangle...

..then you've got a
round shape on the hip.

So you're exaggerating
the woman's shape.

I mean, I just want to see
something really dramatic.

Let's see where these darts
are going to hit you.

Just to make sure that it fits
properly.

With the '80s hourglass
silhouette dependent

on a tight-waisted bodice...

Shall I just do the whole thing
up at the sides?

..the sewers need to be meticulous

in altering their patterns
to fit their models.

So I've got to somehow take two and
a half inches out of the middle

of the pattern and then add it on
at the sides.

There's going to be loads to do.

Only once she's adjusted her pattern
pieces can Liz start to sew

her slim-fit taffeta dress

with ruffled skirt,

adding two giant organza bows

to create a garment in honour

of her childhood hero.

The actual dress
that I've based this on

came straight out of an '80s cartoon

that was all about fashion -

Jem And The Holograms -

and it was, like, my dream.

I used to watch religiously
as a kid.

We had a VHS of it and I watched it
so many times

that I actually wore it out.

And Liz isn't the only sewer
to be inspired by an '80s diva.

So my inspiration... Yes?

..is my Alexis Carrington doll.
Oh, fab!

It's full-on Dynasty,
this, isn't it? Yep.

So, I'm... I'm bringing the hem
up to the knee... Yeah?

..too make it more of
a c*ck dress.

Adding the peplum
but keeping the big shoulders.

These shoulders are so dramatic,
aren't they? I agree.

I mean, it's got all the elements
that I think I was looking for.

Matt's gold lame dress

will feature flamboyant

frilled sleeves and a peplum

and, to make sure it's
worthy of Joan Collins,

he's taken the design
into his own hands.

I've drafted the pattern myself.

OK, and have you practised it?
Yes, I have, yeah. Right.

I've measured my model
and I've measured the pattern.

Hopefully it works.

I think, if you get this right,
it'll look absolutely stunning.

But it needs to be fitted
really beautifully. Yeah.

Matt's self-drafted pattern
may be brand-new

but Mark's has been
around the block.

I got it from my local Oxfam.

They had this whole box
of '80s patterns.

I'd gone in there the week before,
actually,

and then I found out we're doing
'80s Week,

I thought, "Ah! There's a load of
nasty '80s patterns in Oxfam!"

His vintage '80s design

features a cinched waist

accentuated by a statement drape

at the hip, and generous shoulders.

How many shoulder pads?

Well, it just says "a shoulder pad."
Oh, right.

I've not really sewn
with shoulder pads before

and yesterday we needed four
shoulder pads,

and it's made me think, "I need
to put more shoulder pads."

That's going to give you
quite a lot of... Yeah.

..support. I'm sorry,
it's not big enough for that!

Well... No, it's not!
..it depends on her shoulders!

It might not need it.

I think it will.

OK.

When it comes to super-sized
shoulders,

Nicole's taking no chances.

I just got, like, a whole array of,
like, shoulder pads

because one is never enough in the
'80s.

But I also bought these moulded bra
cups...

..when shoulder pads
just aren't enough!

Nicole's big-shouldered dress

will be split into two shimmering,

dramatically opposed halves.

Like her power jacket,

it'll have a two-tone effect,

and that's not the only similarity.

I found this electric blue fabric.

Slightly concerned that it's a bit
like yesterday's fabric

but I think if my kid had asked me,
"Oh, should I do the safe thing

"or should I be brave?"

I'll just always be like,
"Just be brave. Be brave.

"Because if you're not brave
and you don't try new things,

"you'll never...
You'll never discover."

All right, then.

Everything is cut out.

Now I'm just going
to do the bodice.

So I'm going to put the darts in
the front and back.

I love making my own patterns -

this thing that
you've made uniquely,

is the only one in the world.

I'm just always worried
that it's not going to fit.

I just hope I've got all my
calculations correct.

Nothing fills you like fear...

..other than realising that
people are sewing already.

But I'd rather do this
and have a well-fitting dress

than a dress that's finished and
just looks like a dog's dinner.

The '80s were all about money,
money, money, excess.

I thought about
the most luxurious fabrics,

like velvet, and why put
puff bits in one area

when you can have them in two?
More is more.

Clare's extravagant velvet

c*ck dress will feature

a silver lame puffball skirt

and sleeves that should be
bouffant enough -

even for Esme.

And are you putting anything else
under the frill?

Er...when I first practised
with it, I put some net in. Yeah.

But, actually, once the arm
was in the sleeves

and when the gathering is in,
it makes...

..made virtually no difference.
Yep. OK.

When it comes to embracing
'80s excess,

no-one is going further
than Therese.

I must have made about 12 different
types of bows.

I discovered that stiff netting
makes it puffy, you know?

Makes it stick up a bit.

As well as enormous netted bows,

Therese's black and gold design

will have a detachable element

for some added '80s pizzazz.

"This figure-hugging shift dress,
pencil skirt and top

"feature a show-stopping peplum!"

There you go.

We want a show-stopping peplum!

Well, this is going to be
even more show-stopping.

This is called a waterfall
cascading peplum.

Lovely. Yes.

Well, I hope so! It was a tricky
day, yesterday, wasn't it?

Today is a new day.

Try and make a beautiful dress
and try and finish.

Well, I think it looks
like a fabulous idea.

With an hour gone...

I've finished making the bodice.
Shall we try it on?

..while most are ready to check
the fit on their bodices...

I need to get on with doing
some actual sewing.

..Liz has only just finished
adjusting hers.

I'm actually going to make
the lining up first,

just to make sure that it fits
properly,

and I'm just going
to try and stay calm.

That's just right, actually.

And whilst now is the perfect
time to make small tweaks...

I might elongate those darts.

..Matt...

Everything fell apart.

..has hit a big problem.

No. It's awful.

I don't know what to do.

Really don't know what to do.

I might recut the back.

Mm...OK.

We'll take it off.

Don't know what's gone on there.

All gone wrong!

I measured my pattern
and I measured it to Meg's size,

so it should have been a good fit,

but clearly not.

I'm just re-cutting the back,

so I'll just add maybe
a couple of inches.

Let's hope I've got enough fabric.

If not, I'm walking home!

MUSIC: Smalltown Boy by Bronski Beat

Sewers! You've had half your time!

This needs more Tabasco.

My favourite c*ck...

..is the champagne c*ck.

Not something to be drunk
in large quantities.

Are there any sewing-related
c*ck, I wonder?

"Knitting needles on the beach"?

"Peplums by night"?

The '80s were also...

..about futuristic things.

The puffball skirt bit at the bottom
is this metallic fabric.

Space age.

I've moved on to
the peplum skirt now.

I've made it with
a detachable peplum

so that it can be
a little black dress.

I've made my lining.

Proof will be in the fitting.

I'm getting worried...

So that's my dart creases done.

Given it, like, an extra
three inches on the back.

Let's get this on you.

Oh, yes! It fits!

Oh, my God! It fits!

Adjusting the pattern has paid off,

so I'm really happy with that.

Right, then!

So I'm just going to
sew the main dress.

The shape is really weird.

Darts are in the wrong place.

I don't know what I've done.

At least it does up at the back.

Right, I'm going to start
on the skirt.

It's a terrible fit but...

I'm worried now that the skirt
will have the same issue

and I haven't got any fabric
left to recut it, so...

It's the worst thing I've ever made.

Breathe.

It's my own recipe.

It's two parts vodka
with one part vodka.

It's called vodka.

One hour remaining, sewers!

I've got to put a wiggle on

but she's going to look
sophisticated.

I am making big puff sleeves.

I don't know how puffy
they're going to be.

NICOLE: Gah!

I've cut the sleeves...

..the wrong colours.

See? That's how it's
supposed to be-e-e!

I haven't got time to
cut it off now.

Or do I?

And I haven't got
enough fabric, so...

What are we doing on the sleeves?
What are we doing on the sleeves?

What are we doing on the sleeves?

I put the skirt together.

Can't remember where it went. Here?

Oh, God, it's terrible.

Don't know how I got
the size so wrong.

HE SIGHS

And I haven't got any more fabric
left to recut it.

HE EXHALES LOUDLY

No, it's not going to work.

MATT SIGHS

MATT GROANS
I think the pattern was wrong.

MATT SIGHS

Nearly done with the bodice.

I'm not going to mess about
with it too much.

I just want to get on
and make my skirt.

All right. I'm putting the sleeves
in the wrong armholes.

I'm just trying to go as quickly
as I can now.

I'm going to embrace by mistake.

I'm using the material
I'm using for the peplum,

and I'm going to insert
a triangular piece in the back.

Maybe I will be going home.

You've got 30 minutes, sewers!

I'm a strong, confident woman.

I'm on the way to the office,
actually.

You're going to break
the glass ceiling.

I'll just build a ceiling
underneath me

so that they really can't get past.

Powerful.

So I've got a skirt
and I've got a top,

and I've got to nail
the two together.

The insert into the skirt's helped.

Just the right fit.

So that's one thing off my mind.

Let's hope it all comes
together and works.

Nicole, how are you getting on?

Oh...

Oh... That's not a good noise.

But I had to put the right sleeve
on the left armhole

and the left sleeve
on the right armhole

because I'd cut the wrong colours.

Will that affect the fit?

Because it's going to be all
shoulder padded to oblivion,

maybe I might get away with it.

So I'm starting my rolled hem
on my skirt.

Going as quickly as I can now.

Where is the...
MATT GROANS

It's the sleeve,
and it's not going in well.

It's all twisted.

BLEEP

Are you all right, Matt?

It's been a disaster.

I put the sleeves, and it's,
like, all gathered, all tying.

It's not working.

PATRICK: Don't worry about those.

Just finish the rest of it off.

Finish the armholes.

You haven't managed the sleeves,
so just leave it off.

You've still got a gold dress with
a big peplum.

True.

15 minutes, sewers!

Oh, God.

Should be enough time to get my
lining in.

If I crack on, I hope I'll finish.

Right.

I'm abandoning the sleeves.

MATT SIGHS

I'm trying to unpick
with tears in my eyes.

It's a good tissue.

Look at your bow! Yes.

That's a big bow. Yeah.

They're big, aren't they?

I would say that's almost an
Esme-sized big bow.

Oh!

I am taking Esme's advice.

I'm going to go with double
shoulder pads.

She was there in the '80s.

Go on, squeeze another one.
Why not?

Two shoulder pads and one bra cup.

She means business.

I am sewing the lining down.

It's just caught up.

Five minutes, sewers.

You should think about getting
your models dressed now.

Really?
I'm thinking about it.

I'll think about it, and...

..nah.

Think about it for the next three,
four minutes

and then really panic about it.

I don't know if I'm going to
finish, frankly.

I might drop the bows.

I really wanted it to look so good.

I will feel like I have given birth
to this dress.

OK, are you ready?
Do you want to go behind here?

One minute, sewers!

I see some models not
in c*ck dresses.

Shall we get you in it?

Try and get you in it.

Zip in, please.

Eyes averted.

Oh, where are you?
Where have you gone?

I'll zip you up.

Let's tie this around.
A massive bow.

No! It's broke.

How do you even tie a bow?

MATT GROANS
Needles up! That is your time.

Yeah, there we go. We're in.

It does look very '80s. Well done!

Time to get ready for
our catwalk c*ck party.

Be as quick as you can.

Imagine Tom Cruise is behind
the bar

and he's about to run out
of mojitos.

They are massive. They are.

They're going to say there should've
been some stuffing in here.

We've got a dress.

And it's on.

You looks fabulous in it.

I'll have a martini, please.

Perfect. Like a Quality Street.

# Girls on film

# Girls on film... #

Six c*ck dresses made in just
five and a half hours.

# Girls on film... #

Well, it definitely feels
like we've stepped back

to the 1980s with this one.

I mean, the fabric looks
absolutely knockout.

I love it.

I love this drape, and it works
really well in this fabric.

The shape of it is terrific.

The fit over the bust
looks pretty natural,

there's a nice amount of drape.

It doesn't look tight anywhere.

I was quite worried
about your shoulders

and shoulder pads because it felt
like you hadn't got enough.

Mm.

But I think you've got
a few more there.

I've got no socks on right now.

That's...
THEY LAUGH

Well done.

Thank you.

# It's a cruel, cruel summer

# Leaving me here on my own

# It's a cruel, cruel summer
It's a cruel

# Now you're gone... #

Right, Liz.
I think this looks very cool.

And I love the asymmetrical
frill at the bottom.

You've given us a very neat
rolled hem all the way round.

That's quite a lot of hemming.

You spent a long time
repositioning those seams

and that has worked incredibly well.

They're sitting just
where they need to be.

I'm really pleased you've done
the bow.

Let me have a look.

Right, it's tied on, but why not?

It's just a bit of organza tied on,
I'm not going to lie.

I like that you've put
the bigger bit at the front.

It's got a lot of impact.

Wow, a big enough bow for Esme!

Well done, Liz. Thank you.

# sh**t that poison arrow
to my heart

# sh**t that poison arrow

# sh**t that poison arrow
to my heart

# sh**t that poison arrow... #

It's a cr*cker.

It looks very glamorous.

It's a really successful shape.

It's creating this lovely
hourglass silhouette.

There's a lining here, isn't there?
Mm-hm.

The lining is shorter...

..so we've got excess fabric here.

I love the puffball skirt.

I think that works really well.

The sleeves needed something
to keep them puffy and bouncy.

You're going to spend half your time
at your c*ck party

re-puffing your sleeves.

You could have made
a little roll of net

or you could have just stuffed
some in...

Yeah. ..with a bit of Sellotape.

Yeah. You could just pop a bit of
tissue up there and fill it out.

Exactly. Yeah.

# She drives me crazy

# Like no-one else

# She drives me crazy

# And I can't help myself... #

Nicole.

Visually, it's absolutely stunning.

It looks powerful,
sexy and dramatic -

pure 1980s power dressing.

It's right out of Dynasty, isn't it?
Yeah.

I was slightly worried
about this fabric

but, actually, it works really well.

It's a little bouncy.

But you know what? It doesn't matter
because the whole thing

is so liquid that
it really, really works.

That centre-back seam is running

right down the centre.

There's a little bit
of excess at the back.

It's accentuating the figure
in a really, really nice way.

Those shoulders are masterful.

I can feel all sorts
of goings-on this.

What have you got in here?

Two pairs of shoulder pads
and two bra cups.

OK. I mean, whatever you've got
in there - the kitchen sink -

you know, it's really working.

It's absolutely got impact.

Well done. Thank you.

# West end girls... #

I think it's really strong.

It feels very elegant.

I love the gold
and the black together.

It's very dramatic.

It kind of makes it
sophisticated '80s.

The waterfall, I like very much.

Does it come off? Yes, it does.

I could turn this into a cape,
couldn't I?

A matador. Yes.

So, actually, she could wear
this dress on its own...

Yeah. ..couldn't she?

Then the little black dress that
she could dress up or dress down.

And the bows.

As you know, I love a bow.

The shape of it is lovely.

The one thing that I would change
is the gold at the front.

I don't want to be focusing here.
Yeah.

This is the...
I was going to put a bow on there.

A bow might have been better
if it was there.

Yes. Yes, I can see what you mean.
Better.

Personally.
Yeah, that's perfect.

But I don't think it detracts from
what I think is a really,

really strong garment.

There's a lot of very good
sewing in this.

It feels like elegant '80s
evening wear.

I think very well done.

# Gold
Gold

# Always believe in your soul

# You've got the power to know

# You're indestructible

# Always believe in

# Cos you are gold
Gold... #

I'll have the necklace back when
you're done.

Thank you.

It was inspired by Dynasty
and it feels very Dynasty.

It sort of reeks of money,
and it couldn't be more gold.

And I think the overall effect
of it is really good.

'80s peplums were stiff
and created an exaggerated shape

over the hips, and it does that
very nicely.

I know you had a few problems...
A lot of problems.

Well, I'm absolutely amazed
how well you've dealt with it.

Thank you.

One thing, though, I would say -

this dart should be going
to the bust point,

and it's way above.

And it's slightly too long,
the front, here.

And if I move that,
we've got excess here.

Did you recut the whole bodice?
I recut the back.

Yeah. You recut the back?

The skirt didn't fit.

But I love that you've
chosen to put an insert

that's the same as the peplum.

You've made a feature, and it feels
completely meant.

I think the overall impression
is really powerful.

Some of the sewing is not terrific.

Thank you.

I felt the pressure today.
Everything went wrong, really.

But I think I brought it back.

So hopefully it's enough to get
through.

Well, that went...rather well.

'80s Week was a mixed bag.

We've all been a bit up and down,

we've all had our little struggles

and we've all had our little
victories.

I'm feeling good.

The judging was very positive.

I've done my very, very best.

Always distract Esme
with a huge bow.

That's my advice from '80s Week.

If in doubt, bang a bow on it.

Well, Mummy and Daddy, I've had
a lovely time in the 1980s.

It's been fantastic.
It's sort of one foot in the rave

and one foot in
the Colby households.

Who's in the running for
Garment of the Week, then?

Liz is. I love the shape of it.

The fit was great.

It had impact.

Nicole's was phenomenal.

And she'd chosen a tricky fabric.

And I could see Joan Collins
wearing that.

Therese needed to do a very good
Made to Measure.

Has she done that?

Well, I think she actually did a
pretty good job.

It was well sewn.

The fit was good.

It felt impactful.

Everybody did a pretty good job,
with the exception of Matt.

Matt really struggled.

He set himself an incredibly
ambitious goal

and he didn't deliver.

It should have had more drama and it
should have been much better sewn.

I'd love to stay
in the 1980s forever.

But, at one point, we have
to go back to the future.

# It's the final countdown... #

Well, g*ng, we made it
through '80s Week.

A challenging week.

We've got two things to do, as ever.

Let's start with the nice one.

Patrick, who has won
Garment of the Week?

Our Garment Of The Week is...

Yes! ..Nicole!

It was absolutely stunning.

It had drama, it was powerful,
it was fantastic sewing.

And so '80s.

OK, now for the not nice bit.

Somebody has to go home.

And that person this week is...

..Therese. That's fine.

Thank you. Thank you.

Aw.

That's all right.

The others are so talented and I've
learned so much from them

as well as from Patrick and Esme.

It's been such an
enriching experience.

Don't you cry. Come on.

When you're retired,

and my life pootles along really
quite peacefully and quietly,

it's lovely to have your brain
stretched in that way.

Come on, my babies. Hug Mummy.

I did think that maybe it would be
me this week.

I'm going to miss Therese a lot.

But she has a new g*y best friend.

I was so not counting on getting
Garment of the Week this week.

Obviously, you don't know how
it's going to go on the day.

You know? Sometimes it works and
sometimes it just goes to pieces.

Amazing.

Next time...

Make a rather nice Goth
wedding veil, wouldn't it?

..it's International Week...

I need a holiday after this.

..as the quarterfinalists face
a Filipino Pattern...

These look like they're
going to be stonking.

..a Provencal Transformation...

..and a Spanish Made to Measure.

Miles of hem. Talk about
going on forever.

Who'll stomp their way to the semis?
Chop, chop.

And whose dance will be their last?
Ah!

If this doesn't go well,
I'll be stamping all over the place.