06x05 - Episode 5

[bunniefuu]

Hi! Eight sewers remain.

And they're about to tackle lingerie
and sleepwear,

which means luxury fabrics
fitted to perfection.

Expect comfort, expect sensuality.

I've been getting in
on the act myself,

by designing my own range of
ladies' underwear.

Every girl's dream.

Welcome to
The Great British Sewing Bee.

Last time... Fiddlesticks.

..the sewers tackled sportswear.

Ali aced the Made-to-Measure...

What is this? Ball pocket.

..winning Garment of the Week.

Ali!

Liz faced relegation...

I've sewn my collar on upside down.

..then smashed it with
her tennis outfit. Oh!

And it was Hazel...
It's impossible. You can't rush it.

..who became the fourth
sewer to leave.

Aww! Group hug. Aww! Thank you.

Now...
Whoo!

..the sewers tackle sleepwear
and lingerie.

The nearest I've been to lingerie

is hanging my mother's bra
on the washing line.

Boning up on new skills...

Go in, you beast.

..in a punishing
pattern challenge...

I can't do it.

In the history of Sewing Bee,
it's one of the biggest clangers.

..there's dramas
transforming pyjamas...

Argh! That should be on the inside.

..while in the Made-to-Measure,
sleep sets give someone...

So awful.
..the ultimate sewing nightmare.

They're not going to fall down,
are they?

I can only sum it up with a face.

# All those bedtime stories... #

It's Lingerie and Sleepwear Week!

I do have quite a lot of experience
with lingerie.

Bras and pants would be
in my comfort zone.

I have made a little bit
of sleepwear.

I made a nightshirt
out of an old bedsheet,

because I'm not a fan of pyjamas,

because they will twist round
your leg in the night.

Week five now, the judges...
they're expecting perfection.

So, yeah, it's getting intense.

Good morning, sleepy bears!

Come forwards.

It is Lingerie and Sleepwear Week.

I'm looking forward to learning
about lingerie, so that one day,

when I go to that section
of the department store,

I don't get frightened.

Esme, tell us about the pattern
challenge. Right.

I'm going to dish them out.

Can you pass those round?

Ah! Hey!

So, we've got a boned basque,

six channels of boning
and fastened by hooks and eyes.

And the fabric choice is entirely
up to you,

but of course, it needs
to be appropriate

for a piece of luxury lingerie.

Now, just because we're dealing
with undies,

doesn't mean we can be silly.

We are all adults here,

apart from me, of course.

You have three and a half hours.
Your time starts now.

Ooh!

Unlike a corset, a basque
can't be adjusted on the body.

Oh, that's nice!

So, as well as being
sensuous against the skin...

I'm going with
this beautiful taffeta.

I just want to go... ah! Ah!

..the fabric the sewers choose
must be firm enough

to hold its shape
and support the wearer.

I quite liked the stiffness
of this jacquard fabric.

Not my usual style,
but I think the basque

is going to need some structure.

Oh, that's a nice one. Mmm!

Would you be desperately offended
if I use the same?

Ah, no, it's fine.

I've gone for quite a stable satin
and it's black. Very Goth.

I have gone for
the same fabric as Nicole.

Could be risky.

It does mean that, I guess,

we're going to be naturally pitted
against each other.

Hopefully, we'll both do
an amazing job.

Now, sexy pants.

Not what we're making, just what
I like to call you, Patrick.

Why a basque?

A basque is a great way to challenge
their ability to cut precisely,

sew precisely
and organise themselves.

Because they're small pieces,

it would be very easy to get things
upside down or back to front.

So, is fit particularly important
on this challenge?

Fit is absolutely crucial.

Each of these seams, if they take
just a little bit too much

or a little bit too little,

then it won't be the perfect
figure-skimming fit.

What are the other challenges
for this garment?

One of the most difficult things
will be the hooks and eyes,

particularly if they've never
done it before.

I mean, this is a deceptively
difficult challenge.

Well, I think it looks great
and I've been looking for a gift

and I think Mum's going to love it.

So, I'm just laying out a pattern,
he says.

So, that's the top cup.

Fiddling with a basque.
Who would have thought it, eh?

Do you like making these sorts of
things? Have you made them before?

No and no.
The nearest I've been to lingerie

is hanging my mother's bra
on the washing line.

Bye, then!
No further questions.

I've made quite a few corsets,

but just because I've made
them before,

doesn't mean that this
construction is exactly the same.

The boned basque is the fiddliest

and most technically demanding
pattern so far.

It starts as 13 separate
pattern pieces.

First, the curved cups
are constructed

and the three front panels
joined together.

Next, the cups are sewn in place,
before the remaining two panels

are attached on each side.

Boning casings are applied
to the inside seams.

Then the boning is inserted.

Hook and eye tapes are attached,

and bias binding added
for a premium finish.

Good morning.
Good morning.

Good morning. How are you feeling?
Determined to do better

and read the instructions properly.
Have you made a basque before?

No, and I've never done
boning before.

What about the hooks and eyes?
Hooks and eyes? No.

Have you ever made any underwear
at all? No. No.

Looking forward to this week, then?

I think this would suit
any of my drag friends.

Yeah, I'm quite looking
forward to this.

Good morning, Clare. Morning.

I presume you're aware
somebody else has got the same?

I'm aware that Nicole is using
the same fabric, yes.

Nicole has an amazing eye for colour
and patterns, so, I, you know...

You've copied her. Yeah, yeah.

OK. I'm going to start sewing
the cup together.

If I'm making a bra,
I'll usually lay it out

in the way that you would look
at the bra on a person,

cos it's all very similar looking.

So, you've got to have your wits
about you.

I've lost a bit
of pattern piece now.

It's very much a voyage
of discovery,

discovering which way up
everything goes.

But the cup conundrum is about
to get even harder.

I'm now attaching
my upper cup pieces.

One is a convex curve
and one is a concave curve.

So, I need to take it slowly
and pin them into submission.

It's always a bit of a worry
when you hear everybody

whizzing away and I'm still
cutting out.

Taking it slow. I am taking it slow,
cos I've got some stripes,

so I'm just matching my stripes up.

Oh, I see. So, that goes
down the middle

and then I'm going to have
them stripes going across.

So, that's going to go over the
boob. Is that big enough for a boob?

It's in three pieces.
It's big enough for my boob.

Whoo!

I've just finished sewing my cups.

They look good.

Oh, dear, Oh, dear.
They've gone wrong.

I've stitched it together
upside down.

Oh, knickers.

I've sewn a piece on back to front.

You can't get away
with a rotten boob.

It'll stand out like a sore thumb.

Wretched cups.

The only cup anybody needs
is a cup of tea.

I can sew soon.

Everybody's in front of me, but we
all do things at different paces.

I always like my speedy sewing
at the end.

Yeah, you see, I would say
I'm at least a B.

Hang on one second.
Sewers, you've had one hour!

Double B, double B.

I'm just sewing my front.

The front of the basque is formed
of three panels...

So, that goes there.

..to which the cups are sewn,
which means navigating

yet more fiddly curved seams.

This is really, really difficult.

I'll have to glue it together,
will that work?

Staples. Someone rush me
to Office World.

SHE SIGHS

It is...

..a boob.

Ta-da!

Looks like a basque to me.
Looks like your hand to me.

So, when you've made them before,
have you made them for yourself?

Yeah. I've got no waist, which is
why I quite like to make them,

because it gives me a waist,

whereas some people have really
extreme sort of hips.

I think you've just described me.
Hey, it's me.

Extreme hips.

Now I've done the front.

It's just these two panels
here to stitch on.

I think the main thing is sticking
to the seam allowance guidelines.

I've done half a centimetre
seam allowance.

Should be one centimetre.
Would be slightly too big,

but better too big than too small.

Gone wrong. Yet again!

Put it in upside down.

I've just stitched my cups
to my bodice.

It looks pretty good, really.

You've got half your time, sewers.

Here's a task - finish your basque.

We are moving on to the boning.

0.5. In order to be supportive,
not saggy,

the basque relies on
plastic strips called boning.

So this makes the garment stiffer,
so it holds up quite well.

These sit within casings,
which must be precisely sewn

to the inside seams.

This is the boning casing, right?

And the boning goes through it.

So, when you stitch this on,
you need to be on the edge.

Too far in and you can't get
your boning...

..up. You can't get your boning
up there. No.

We're adults, grown men... I know.

This is the sort of thing we enjoy.
Yeah.

Imagine a world without boning.

For one thing, it would make sewing
a lot less smutty.

Thank goodness for a bunch
of 16th century seafarers

and a fashionable Spanish royal.

Let's bone up on the facts.

In the 15th century, to achieve
a flattering silhouette,

an Englishwoman of court
had to rely

on stiffened cotton or linen.

It took a stylish Spaniard

to add more oomph to
the nation's underwear.

In the 16th century,
Catherine of Aragon,

the first of Henry VIII'S six wives,

brought her fashion for more
structured undergarments

with her from Spain.

She introduced
the Spanish farthingale

that gave structure to the skirts,

worn alongside stiffened stays,
later known as a corset.

This flattened the stomach,
pushed the shoulders back.

It created the silhouette
that we see

in classic Tudor portraits.

The secret behind Catherine's
shapely underwear was boning,

and the best material for the job
was about to be discovered

in an unlikely place.

In the 16th century, the whaling
industry really boomed,

with lots of expeditions going out
to the Atlantic,

and baleen, from the whale's jaw,
is one of the by-products.

Baleen is actually similar
to nails or horns

and other items made of keratin.

It would have reacted to the heat
of the wearer's body

to make it more pliable and
a little bit more comfortable.

While boning shaped the figure,
another baleen item - the busk -

created a distinguished poise
and posture.

The busk is an item that would
have been inserted

and possibly tied with ribbons
into the front of stays

from approximately here to here
on the body.

It allowed the wearer to lead
with their chest,

which completely changes the way
that you move

and also the way you carry
and present yourself.

Held so closely to the body,
busks were the perfect place for men

to carve intimate messages
to their loved ones.

On one side, we've got more
traditional decoration,

but then hidden on the back, we get
an extra glimpse into its history,

because there's a small boat.

We can imagine that this
is being made by a sailor

as a love token
for their sweetheart back home.

The craft of engraving busks began
to die out in the 19th century,

when steel boning was invented.

But a reminder of it exists
to this day.

Legend has it that the little bow

that often sits between the cups
on bras

are a memory left behind
from the busks

and the way that they were laced
into a corset or stays.

You have one hour remaining, sewers!

OK, last one.

Each boning casing requires
precise stitching.

If it's not topstitched evenly,

you just get loads of wavy lines
on the front of your basque.

It goes in a little bit here.
I'm not unpicking.

That's a wibbly-wobbly one,
but just have to crack on now.

The big disaster would be if
I can't get the boning in.

Just a few millimetres out and
the channels will be too narrow.

Hoping it will be OK.
Go in, you beast.

This is really tricky.

Go, go, go, go, go, go, go, go,
go, go, go, go, go, go.

Boning is in.

Look at that. I might put
boning in everything now.

Just a quick stitch.
This is just to hold it in place.

Now, I just need to get this
hook and eye tape in the back,

so the thing will actually close.

Sturdy strips of hooks and eyes
are the standard way to
secure basques...

The hook and eye tape is about two
pages of instructions by itself.

Ugh, three pages.

..but any errors attaching them
could ruin the shape and fit.

This ain't going to be fun.

To insert their hook and eye tapes
correctly,

first of all, a two centimetre fold

should be pressed
on the back panels.

Both tapes must then be stitched
face down along the fold edge,

with the hooks on the right
and the eyes on the left,

before a second row of stitching
is added

as close to the hooks and eyes
as possible.

The hooks are then double backed
on themselves and stitched again.

These lines of stitching
create two new boning casings,

which are turned back, bringing
the eyes to the front to finish.

I've not worked with one
of these fiddly things before.

I think this is going
in the right place.

I've no idea. If they've never
done it before,

it's really easy to get it wrong.

They need the tape on the eyes
to go under the hook,

because you don't want the hook
sticking into your back

and we don't want the hooks
and eyes showing.

They have to follow the instructions
and be really accurate.

SHE SIGHS

Oh, I can't... How on Earth are
you meant to do this?

Which makes me wonder if I'm
doing it wrong.

OK, I've got it.
Starting to make a bit more sense.

Sewers, you have 30 minutes!

I'm just sewing my boning casings.

I know everybody else is miles
in front of me,

But I'll just keep sewing
and hope I get finished.

I've just had to unpick my hooks.

Cos I put them in the wrong way up.

Or the wrong way around.

This is a tough one.

Even if they think they've mastered
attaching the hooks and eyes...

It's looking approximately
like the diagram.

..the basque has more challenges
in store.

It needs boning up the back
of this as well.

I am totally lost.

I'm using the hook and eye tape
to form a boning casing.

You're trying to get
delicate stitches

with metal stuff in the way.

Oh! I've just broken a needle.

Right. I think I've got it.

I'm stuck. I can't do it.

I'm 90% sure I got it right.
I might have made up how to do it.

You've made it up?
That's pretty all right, isn't it?

Yeah. I mean, you see a little bit
of flesh through there.

Oh, well. You need a bit of flesh
on show.

On a hot day. Gives you a bit of...
Bit of air.

I'm not convinced I've got the hooks
right.

But I'm going to move on.

Sewers, you have 15 minutes.

You should be onto your binding.

Bias binding is being used to tidily
finish the top and bottom

of the basque.

I would normally pin this,
but we don't have time

for that kind of shenanigans
right now.

I'm just going to try and
work out my hook and eye tape.

Just got to do, like, speed reading

and just read what you think's
important, don't you?

Stitch down there and put
the boning up the middle.

Oh, got you. Yeah?

OK.
That's if I've done it right.

Five minutes to go, sewers.

Run, my pretty. Run.

Everybody else is binding
and I'm not.

Oh, can I have a plaster?

I've cut myself.

I think I might have put my
hook and eye tape

on some sort of back to front way.

I'm trying not to panic.
Take it gently. Deep breaths.

This is not going to be the neatest
bit of binding.

It's all a bit...up and down.

I think I've got about four minutes
to apply two lots of

bias binding.

Oh, come on!

I just want to get it done.

Two minutes, sewers!

Get your basques on your mannequins.

You've got to be kidding.

Quick press.

This is the worst binding
I have ever, ever done.

I'm not going to get
the bottom binding on.

It's the moment of truth.

Excuse me, madam.

It'll take me two minutes just to
get the damn thing hooked up.

Suck it in, suck it in.

This is why I don't wear basques.

It's a little bit baggy, here.

She's on.

Just about on.

It's not the best bit of
sewing I've ever done.

Normally I'd trim back all
these threads everywhere.

At least it fits.

Oh!

That's not...
PETER GASPS

What happened?

Oh, no!
I missed out an entire panel.

Oh!

Pin it on as it is.

They can look at what you've done.

Needles up. That is your time.

I'm gutted.

Wheel your mannequins forward to
form a sort of Playboy Mansion,

if you will.

Nothing more I can do with that.

You got the same?
Yep, identical.

# She's got those curves
and they cling to 'em

# Sheer silk stockings and
shoes number three... #

Eight body-hugging basques
carefully crafted

in just three and a half hours.

But what will the judges think?

Mark, come forward.

# So you better look out in Paris. #

It's neatly sewn across
the bust cups,

your boning channels are nice
and flat.

You've managed all your seaming
and topstitching pretty well.

I'm going to have a look inside
the hook and eye.

This side is right.

But the hooks
you've done wrong, here.

You should have topstitched
along here

so it ended up like that.

And that is drum-tight under there.

I didn't want her to fall out.

Yeah.

I like that you chose the black,

because it's your Goth thing.

The topstitching over your boning
channels is near perfect

and the fit's not bad.

I quite like the choice of
the contrast binding,

but it's pretty obvious
when it's not perfectly sewn.

Let's have a look at
the hook and eye.

You've put it in the right way.

The fly just needed to be
fractionally further over.

I really like the fabric.

The binding is great and it's
a fabulous fit.

The quality of the topstitching
down the boning channels,

the sewing over the cups,

it's really, really good.

It's just a little lumpy over
the top of the hook and eyes,

but I think it looks fantastic.

When you both chose the same fabric,
we wondered how easy

it might be to tell them apart.

And you've made it
even more difficult

because they are both
exceptionally good.

All the topstitching,
beautifully even,

the hooks and eyes are in
incredibly well.

I agree with Patrick.
It's beautifully sewn,

the binding is great,

but I think you could have
pressed better.

It's just showing the wrinkles,
just a fraction.

You obviously just haven't had time
to finish it and tidy it up.

There are stray threads everywhere.

You've not finished
the binding either,

but the seaming through the cups
is pretty decent.

And I like that you've cut
the stripes the other way

on the under-bust.

But it's too big.

Oh, and you haven't put a bone
in the back.

Oh, no, I didn't see that.

It is a bit too big. Yeah.

Which is a shame cos I think there's
a lot of really good sewing in here.

Your cups are the right shape.

The binding could be
a little neater,

but it's complete.

Your topstitching...

It's not even.

The other thing about it is,
we can see the hooks and eyes...

Yeah.
..which we don't want to.

You have no binding on the bottom...
Yeah.

..so you obviously didn't finish.
No.

And it's not a good fit.

It's not tight enough.
Yeah, yeah.

To the topstitching...

It's gone for a wander. Mmm.

And the stitching on
the bust seams isn't fabulous.

Let me look at the back.

Right.

You've got the hooks on the outside.
I know.

I nearly downed tools, but Matt
very kindly showed me his.

Which was wrong.
THEY LAUGH

Yes.

Perhaps look elsewhere
for guidance next time.

Well, Peter...
ESME LAUGHS

..there are a few pins.

I wonder why.

Whoa!

I was expecting
a much skinnier model.

Well, basically, you've missed
two panels.

Yeah, missed out
the two back panels.

But even if you had put
the other pieces in,

you've sewn this wrong.

Because that tape should be
coming out to here.

Yeah.

You've constructed the boning
channels pretty well.

The topstitching is
relatively even.

But of course, we're missing
two complete sections.

And in the history of Sewing Bee,
it's one of the biggest clangers.

You know, hats off for that one.

Patrick and Esme must now rank
the basques from worst to best.

In eighth place is...

..Peter.

I think you know why.

We've only got half a basque.

In seventh place...

..Therese.

You just haven't finished it.

And what you did isn't
perfectly sewn, either.

No.

Ali is sixth.

Matt is fifth.

In fourth place, it's Mark.

And Liz is third.

In second place is...

..Nicole.

It's beautifully made

so it was really difficult
to choose.

It just didn't fit quite as well
as somebody else's.

Which means, in first place,
it's Clare.

Very good. Well done.

Clever girl. Very good.

It was very tight between you,

but you won it for the perfection
of that fit.

Well done, everyone.
That was a tricky one.

Go and have some refreshments,

maybe treat yourself and change
your undies.

And we will come back for
the Transformation Challenge.

# Blue skies... #

Oh! Well deserved.

I came first, finally!

Very pleased.
You have this little flush.

It's so sweet.

You need to take this off, then,
and put a little basque on.

When Clare chose the same fabric
as me, at first I was like,

"Oh, God, please don't do
a better job than me."

But it worked out well
for both of us.

I was pleased for her.
Really pleased for her.

I have no idea how I did that.

It's just an idiotic mistake.

That's what's frustrating about it,
but...

We'll just write this one off
and move on swiftly.

I am looking forward to
the Transformation Challenge.

Anything has to be easier
than that basque.

For this week's
Transformation Challenge,

the sewers are leaving basques
behind and heading to bed.

It's time for the
Lingerie and Sleepwear Week

Transformation Challenge.

Tell us more, Patrick.

We're giving you a nana nightie...

..and a pair of grandad's
old pyjamas.

And we'd like you to transform these
into a piece of summer day wear

for a woman.

It can be anything you like,
but it has to be something

you'd be happy wearing in public.

Each take one pair of pyjamas,
one nightie.

You can go to the haberdashery
and take whatever you like,

but no other fabric.

OK, we're going to send
the judges away now,

partly so they don't know
whose is whose

but mainly because it's time
for their afternoon nap.

Oh, you'll need this, Patrick.

Thank you.

Night-night. Night-night.

OK, you have 90 minutes
for this challenge,

and your time starts now.

# In me my grandad's flannelette
nightshirt... #

Oh, my God.

What do I want?

No, no stripes.

We're going to clash.
I quite like these ones.

Can I take that nightie?

None of my nighties go with
my pyjamas.

Does that look nice on me?

I definitely will be trying
a few of these on.

I think I need to channel
the inner designer in me.

I've got 90 minutes to find it.

# Lordy, lordy

# Me grandad's flannelette shirt. #

This challenge could be
a bit of a nightmare.

We've given them some really odd
bits and pieces to work with.

I think it's going to be
very difficult for them

to create something that's wearable
and beautiful out of this.

Yeah, hopefully they will use
elements of both.

But it shouldn't end up looking
like a pyjama or a nightie.

What I want is a little dress,
a skirt, blouse -

summer day wear.

The most successful ones will create
something eye-catching.

You've just got to go for it.

I'm thinking a skirt with triangular
pieces, in the nightie fabric.

So, when you swish, it will get
flashes of passion k*ller.

I've never re-used pyjamas.

Because I don't have pyjamas.

Up north, we have central heating.

What do you wear when you go to bed?
I don't usually wear anything.

Because I've got the dogs
in the bed.

I've got my husband there as well,
who's really hot.

Right.

OK, so, current theory is
a pair of dungarees

out of the pyjamas.

And combine it with this
to make a shirt for underneath.

Therese, do you think I've managed
to make this fashionable?

Oh, I like the way you're
blinging it up.

What are you making?

I'm making a blouse with
ra ra sleeves.

And then this bit's going
to be what?

I haven't got that far.

Sometimes inspiration comes
and sometimes it doesn't.

Yeah. I mean, I've been hit with it
today with this fantastic ensemble.

I'm going for a little bolero jacket
with really big, poufy sleeves.

It's going to be a maxi dress,
I think.

A maxi dress? Yeah.

But none of it goes together.
No, it doesn't.

Maybe you could just pop that
in the bin?

First, I'm going to get
the top done.

This just lends itself to using
it as a cross on t'front,

just for that lovely piping.

This is the back.

This is the front.

So I need to put a skirt bit on -

kind of ruffles or something.

I'm going to shape the top of
the pyjama into a shirt dress,

taking into account boobs, waist,
not being a big rectangle,

which most blokes' nightwear is.

Sewers, you have one hour remaining!

Oh, my word! I look ridiculous!

This is the bib of the dungarees.

So I've recycled the pocket
from the pyjama top.

I'm going to use the waistband
to put a cross on the back.

Sleeves are great. Now I just need
to decide what to do

with the rest of it.

Yeah! That'll fit.

This pyjama print looks a bit like
a hospital gown.

They're just so odd.

What, hospital gowns? Yeah.

The ones where you walk around with
your bum hanging out, definitely.

Nice, easy access though, eh?

Quite. In case of emergencies.

In case of emergency, yeah.

Obviously, I need to use
both items,

so I need to just whip up a skirt
with this nightie.

So this is the old neckline
of the granny nightie.

I wanted to use this detail
somewhere.

I still might do something
with the collar.

I'm sewing down this neckline piece
and then I'll layer something

over the top of it.

But I'm not sure what yet.

Sewers, you have 30 minutes
remaining.

I'm done with the dungarees
and onto the top.

I am attempting a frill
on the bottom of my skirt.

I've got two triangular pieces on
the front, two on the back,

so it's not too simple.

I'm going to attach a ruffle
down the front, I think.

Like that.

The ruffles are going down the back
of the blouse,

just to get this bit of
back interest.

What are you up to, Peter?

Currently, constructing tiny
mini collars to go under

the existing collar to bring this
into this.

MATT SIGHS
Sewn it the wrong way around.

Inside out. That should be
on the inside.

That's roughly the front.

It's going to have a bit of
a keyhole thing at the back.

I might do the skirt with the seam
on the outside, so it matches.

They might like that.

It's all seams-on-the-outside,
I'm putting a zip on the outside.

I'm going with that kind of thing.

Ten minutes, sewers!

Oh, that's not very long, is it?

I'm just putting the waistband
on at the moment.

I have no idea whether I've been
creative or not.

I've probably pushed myself by my
standards,

but by other people's?
Probably not.

"Hi, Mark. It's me, your mannequin.

"I love a wrap skirt.

"When will it be ready for me to go
see my friends at the summer fair?"

Never, at this rate.

I'm just on the armholes.

The theme today is, how quickly can
anyone attach bias binding?

Two minutes, sewers!

It's inside out at the minute,
but it fits.

One of my better efforts.

So that's my front.

I think I've done it.

That looks rather good.

OK.

Needles up! That is your time.

Bring your mannequins forward
and muddle them up

for a summer party!

I'd wear that.

Maybe.

PJs and nighties into eight new
garments,

dreamed up in just 90 minutes.

Wakey-wakey, judges.

Patrick and Esme have no idea
whose is whose.

Oh, I say!

It looks a bit like
a skating outfit.

I think they have thought about how
to use bits of the pyjama.

This, not so much.

They've used the original piping
and given us this nice V-front,

but it's not the best fit in
the world.

No. It's not knocking my socks off.

I think this is great.

They've made this fabulous pair
of dungarees

and made a sleeveless blouse
to match.

They've done button holes,
they've used the pocket

with a little red piping.

That's actually quite a lot
of work.

And it's neat.

Overall, it's a really successful
transformation.

It isn't the most complicated
garment,

but it's been well done

and it's certainly a pretty
substantial transformation.

I think it works as a summer
garment.

Yeah, definitely.

I think it's pretty good, actually.

This must be the nightie.

This must be the pyjamas.

I like how they've mixed them
together.

I love the way that they've turned
all the seams out.

It definitely feels very
Vivienne Westwood to me.

This is a pair of PJs into
a full length sleeveless dress.

I think I would've probably
preferred it

if we had a bit of frill
somewhere else.

This looks to me like...

"Oh, gosh, I haven't used
the nightie.

"I'll just put a frill."

But this frill should have
been bigger

because it looks like
an afterthought.

There's not a huge amount
of transformation.

It's a pyjama top,
turned back to front.

I do you like how they've sewn
the fronts together

so we get the piping on either side
of the frill.

I think the neckline is quite
interesting.

But, in the time we've given, it
doesn't seem like an awful lot.

Well, this one I rather like...

So do I.
..actually.

It's really imaginative.

I love the huge, drapey sleeve.

And I like that they've really
shaped it in under the bust.

It's creating a really interesting
silhouette.

Somebody's really gone to town here.

I think it's mad.

They've used the pyjama
and the nightie.

Yeah, they've used loads of both.

And the sleeve shape is very nice.

I like that they've kept
the scallop edge.

There's quite a lot of good stuff
going on here.

Esme and Patrick will now rank
their summer garments

from drowsy to dreamy.

In eighth place...

..it's the blue and yellow
maxi dress.

Liz.

We just felt there was lots of
pyjama and not very much nightie.

In seventh place is
the back to front pyjama top.

Therese.

I like that you can wear it both
ways.

But there isn't much of
the nightie on it.

Ali is sixth.

Mark is fifth.

Clare is fourth.

And Matt is third.

In second place...

..it's the Austrian nana.

Peter.

I think we both love the overall
whimsy of it.

It's a lot of fun
and made us both smile.

Well, there's only one person left.
Nicole!

Thank you.
It's so wearable.

I think it's great.

Well done. Thank you.

Yay!

Victory at last!

I've been waiting for a number one
spot at Transformation

for how many weeks now?

PETER SIGHS
Oh, I needed that.

That's a good result
after this morning's disaster.

Not my finest,

that Transformation Challenge.

I was quite disappointed,
to be honest.

I don't think I've done enough
to be safe.

If I have a disaster tomorrow,

I think it'll be a fast train
up north.

Just one lingerie and sleepwear
challenge remains

before our sewers learn who has
earned Garment Of The Week

and who'll be going home to bed.

So, second day of
Lingerie and Sleepwear Week,

who's basque-ing in glory?

Clare. She won
the Pattern Challenge

and it was absolutely faultless.

And she came fourth in
the Transformation.

So she's had, I think, probably her
best week.

And Nicole did very well.

Second in the Pattern Challenge and
first in the Transformation.

Who's not having such a good week?

Surprisingly, Therese.

Her basque was far from finished.
Unfinished.

And her Transformation was a bit
lacklustre as well.

And Peter.

Well, Peter had possibly
the worst start,

but his Transformation was actually
terrific.

How's Ali doing?
Not so great.

Ali was sixth in both challenges.

Not up to her normal standard.

For the final challenge, the
mannequins have been replaced...

Hiya. How are you doing?

..with the sewers' real-life models.

Hello, gorgeous.
How are you doing?

How are you feeling today?
OK.

I didn't have a good day yesterday.

Welcome back, sewers.

It's time for the Made-to-Measure.

So we should also welcome back
our models!

Today, the judges would like you
to make a two-piece sleep set

with a lace element.

You have five hours,
and your time starts now.

Right. Tape measure.

The sewers have been able to
practise their sleep sets at home.

I need to get you sitting down
so it doesn't give you hungry bum.

But now they must adjust
their patterns

to precisely fit their models.

It's quite small, actually.

I think I can make that a little bit
longer.

Mind you, you have to get into it,
don't you?

Now, sleep sets.

If it's anything like what I wear
to bed,

it's thermal undies and
Wonder Woman jimjams.

Is this what you're after?

We're obviously asking for
two pieces.

They could do full-length trousers.

They could do a cami knicker.

A short dress with
a knicker underneath.

Yes, like babydoll.

What sort of fabrics
are you looking for?

They can use Jersey cotton, silk -

but fine fabric like silk is much
more difficult to sew.

We've also asked them to sew
with some lace.

They could choose a sort of
understated bit of lace trim.

Or they could use the lace as
a much stronger feature.

But it's important how they balance
the lace with the other fabric.

Yes. And, whichever way they go,
it's a bit of sleepwear -

it's got to be comfortable,

it needs to conceal everything
that it ought to conceal.

If they make it too small,
it will show everything.

With free rein on what fabric
to use,

some sewers have chosen
comfortable cotton...

My fabric is a very pretty
cotton lawn.

I've used this type of
cotton lawn before

and I know it's lovely to sew with.

..while others are tackling
luxurious silks and satins.

I'm using a fine silk.

You don't want to sleep in something
that's stiff.

It feels beautiful, doesn't it?

Oh, lovely.

This is sexy and soft and flowy.

You know, it's got a bit of luxury
to it. Ideal for sleeping in.

Matt's lightweight charmeuse fabric

has a super-silky finish.

He'll be teaming it

with a bold layer of lace

over the bodice and bust.

Looking around, I don't think
anybody's got anything, like,

this lightweight.

It's quite slippery.

So, to get the cups done
with the lace on,

it might be a little bit tricky.

I don't make things easy for myself.

And Matt's not the only one
regretting his fabric choice.

NICOLE SIGHS

I am in a delicate fabric
cutting nightmare.

Oh, no. What sort of nightmare?
What's happened?

God! It's just very slippery silk
satin.

And the top's going to have
two layers.

Will that be over the whole thing?
Yeah.

Seems complicated.

But if anyone can do it,
with the week you're having...

Yeah. It's not gone too badly,
has it?

Nicole's sleep set will combine

delicate stretch satin

with a dramatic lace flounce

over a ruffle trimmed knicker.

This is the front of the knicker...
Ooh!

..which is going to have a bit of
a lace frill.

It looks like an elephant! I know.

JOE TRUMPETS

Ali's also going wild with
a risky design.

Well, I've got two fabrics. Oh?

The main part is going to be
the cream silk,

and then I've got contrasting panels
in, like, an animal print

that's not silk.

Ali's design not only mixes fabrics

of different weights,

but her silk panelled camisole

will also be cut on the bias

for a better shape on the body.

My silk will be on the bias.

It just goes on lovely.
It's on the bias?

Yeah, so it drapes really nice.

It can be tricky sewing
bias-cut fabric.

Yeah.

Yeah, there's no time for...
For chatting.

To cut on the bias, the pattern
is laid at a 45 degree angle

to the straight grain...
It's turned that way.

..making the fabric more supple
and perfect for sleepwear.

It hangs really nice and it just
gives you a little bit of give.

It fits nicer, hopefully.

But it does have its downsides.

If you don't take care with it,
it'll stretch very easily.

I am making a little bias camisole

and French knicker-style shorts

in this duck egg blue.

To complement her lacy knickers,

Clare's adding a peekaboo lace trim

to her camisole,

inspired by her love

of retro glamour.

I'm thinking there's those sort of
1940s bombshell pictures

painted on the nose cones of
aeroplanes in their scanties,

sort of draped with ridiculously
glamorous hair, on the phone.

While Clare's opting for
a 1940s look,

Mark's harking back to even
simpler times.

Mine is a proper old-fashioned
winceyette.

It's more comfortable,
maybe with a mug of Horlicks

and a couple of Hobnobs
while you're watching Crimewatch.

His Victorian-style sleep set

will feature a pleated tunic

with a gathered waist, lace trim

and matching knickerbockers,

all made from warming winceyette.

Patrick loves a winceyette.

I'm familiar with a winceyette.

I actually had a two-piece
winceyette sleep set

when I was at school,

and a matching Wee Willie Winkie
hat.

And how often did you wear it?
I wore it all the time.

Pretty cold in boarding school in
County Durham.

I bet it was. On the moors.

Well, I'm intrigued to see it.
Yeah.

It sort of appeals to me
in a nana way.

Right, I'm ready to sew.

As it's the most detailed and
complex part of their sleep set...

What are you? You're a strap.

..all the sewers have chosen
to tackle their tops first.

I'm doing the cups at the moment.

It's really tricky.

I've never worked with lace before,

but my Pattern Challenge
wasn't good enough

so I kind of want to get this right.

I have attached my lace to the cups.

I'm now trimming back the fabric
to leave a little peekaboo.

Yeah, happy, but slow.

So, I've done the cups
and I've matched the lace.

I've just to make sure this
is absolutely flat.

I had a catastrophe yesterday,
so I shall try really hard

to do a beautiful finish
and get a good result.

Therese is pinning her hopes

on a cotton sleep set

with two delicate trims.

Bold blue bias binding

will accompany fine white lace

for a feminine finish.

Well, that looks pretty neat to me.

Do you know, I've not used
my catchphrase this year.

What's that?
That's good sewing.

Oh, bless you.

And Therese isn't the only sewer
focusing on fine detail.

This lace scalloping's going to sit
around the breast.

This is all about precision
and delicacy.

I've gone for simple
and well ex*cuted

rather than bells and whistles
done badly.

The focal point of Peter's sleep set

will be a scalloped lace trim

and crossover neckline

on an abstract print cotton lawn.

This type of fabric holds
its structure,

but it's still nice and light.

Hopefully we should have
a nice, easy time.

Unlike Peter...
LIZ SIGHS

..Liz is really stretching herself.

I'm trying to insert stretch
lace to stretch fabric.

I think this must be the hardest
I've concentrated

in a long time.

Liz is combining her stretch lace
trim with viscose Jersey,

and she's finishing off
her sleep set with a small nod

to her unique style.

I've got a little Goth charm.
Oh, no. That's not very Gothy.

You don't think that's Goth? No.

That's totally '90s Goth, that.
Oh, '90s Goth.

'90s Goth was all about
the moon and stars.

Is this quite Gothy?
I'm wearing all black.

That's more like if Elton John
tried to do Goth.

I'm trying to pick up the speed
a little bit.

There's supposed to be some
binding here,

but I'm just going to leave that cos
it's not entirely important.

That'll save me a little bit
of time.

It does mean there's a lot of lace
at the top.

You like? That looks nice.

Pretty, isn't it?

I want this biased, but I need
to be really neat.

And I used Esme's method.

I thought Esme's method was have six
gin and tonics before you start.

That sounds like a really good idea.

Yeah.

Where the animal print attaches
to the silk,

the seams can stretch out.

So you've got to be gentle with it.

These pleats go a bit wonky
in the middle

but that's why they invented
the unpicker.

It's made the first one
look wonky now,

but I can't spend all morning
on pleats.

I've got to press on.

Sewers, you've had half your time.

Oh, I've been looking for red
thread.

This is my first stitching of
the lace to the silk.

I do feel a bit behind time now.

While some sewers are slowed up
with complex construction...

Can I try it on you?

..others are ready for their
first fitting.

Sorry, I'm just going to have to
stare at your boobicles for a while.

..for Therese and Clare,
at this point,

absolute precision is vital...

OK, so I need to take
my side seams very small.

..as they're attempting a luxury
finish with French seams.

A French seam is a seam that
is sewn twice,

and it basically encloses
the raw edges.

In sleepwear, it's worth taking
the time with a French seam.

Because the seam lies so flat,
it's comfortable.

But you've got to be very careful

because you've got to unpick
two seams to alter one seam.

So French seams are pretty
irreversible.

I realised that my French seams
are too wide.

I'm hoping it won't be too tight,

but there's very little
I can do about that now.

Just bend forward.

That's it. It gives you room
to do that, yeah?

It's too tight here because
I've made it too small.

Clare...
She's just put it on her model.

It goes on, but it's snug.
Yeah.

I haven't even fitted it
to the model.

I haven't had time.

Matt seems quite far through,
but I've not seen him do a fitting.

No, neither have I.

It's certainly a risk.

I am just attaching the upper parts.

But it's so delicate, it's just
a matter of taking your time

and not rushing it.

Ali, as per usual, seems to be
leaving herself

an awful lot to do.

I'm not sure about the side panel.

The leopard skin fabric is a heavier
weight than the silk.

So that could be a problem.

I'm just going to pop it on you,
yeah?

Nicole, just doing a fitting.

It's quite big. And it's not
very flattering, is it?

I mean, the sleeves are a touch...

A touch too long.

Have I got time to fix that?

Sewers, you have one hour remaining!

God!

OK, I'm going to pop this one down.

I'm going to move on to the shorts
and then I'm going to come back,

hem the top and see how much time
I have.

Right.

Most of the sewers are making sleep
shorts from four leg pieces...

They're going to be great.

..gathering them at the waist with
elastic for fit and comfort.

I'm attaching my waistband.

You have to pin it
really evenly around.

And then you end up with nice,
even gathers.

Just a matter of careful sewing.

I don't want any puckery bits.

But Nicole's spotted a problem
with the satin pieces

she cut out for her knickers.

That is so not even, is it?

Crikey.

I will never work with this fabric
ever again.

And Ali's still sewing
her camisole.

I'm just doing a really narrow
zigzag up against my seam line.

And then snipping off to the zigzag.

I've still got to make my shorts.
I definitely need to speed up.

And it's not just time she has
to worry about.

I snipped it.

So now I've got a hole in my top.

Well, I was going to make a little
ribbon to go at the front

so I could always tack it,
and then they might not notice.

But I need to finish it and
I'll think about that after.

30 minutes remaining, sewers!

I think this is the worst pair
knickers ever made.

It's just looking a bit
lopsided to me.

Oh, that works.

Do you approve, Clare?
Oh, hot stuff.

You don't want to get a chill
on your kidneys.

That needs a bit more of a snip.

The shorts are getting skimpier
and skimpier by the minute.

The elastic could be a bit tighter

but they're not going to fall down,
are they?

No.

OK, whip your pants off.

Never said that to a lady before.
I was going to say.

15 minutes, sewers!

15 minutes to make some
fancy lace shorts.

I need to get my foot on the gas.

Come on, Ali. You can pull it out
of the bag.

My shorts currently have
no waistband, no hem.

I've still got my lace to put
on the bottom of my shorts,

but I just want it to be
really pretty.

That's the bottom of the shorts.

I could have meticulously cut out
the scalloping

but I don't have that time.

Nicole, how are you getting on? Ah!

I'm ruffling like there's
no tomorrow.

Is the rest of it pretty much done?
God, no.

I've got that hem to do
and I was hoping to make

a little adjustment to the fit
if I had time, but...

I'm not sure you will.

I definitely won't.

After I've sewn up my side seams,
I'll reattach my lace.

I say to my patients, "You only have
to be worried if I look worried."

Oh! Is the garment finished?

Very, very nearly.

Oh, God.

It's a little bit loose.

Five minutes, sewers!

Oh, my giddy aunt.

Come on, Therese. You can do this.

I have my foot to the floor.

But the legs are quite wide.

I have zero confidence
that hem is going to get done.

I'm doing a rolled hem
but it's quite tricky.

Especially with this fabric.

Hopefully it won't be too wavy.

I actually think I'm going
to finish.

And you're going to be happy
with it as well?

And I think I'm going to be happy
with it as well.

This is fantastic news!

Is that about right?
Yeah.

Maybe just about enough time
to get the elastic on.

Right, where's the elastic?

Elastic, elastic, elastic, elastic,
elastic...

Two minutes, sewers!

Let's get those sleep sets
on those models.

Final press and then Natalie
can go get dressed.

OK, shorts are coming.

I'm just going to have time
for a little bow.

There you go, sweetie.

Oh, this looks so awful.

I'm just improvising a bow.

It's on you? You're a lady going
to sleep.

That feels comfortable, doesn't it?
Yeah.

Do I look like Doris Day?
Just the same.

Right, I'm just covering
that hole up.

It's so lopsided.

Needles up! That is your time.

It's all right. It hides it.

Step away from your models,

leaving them wearing
whatever they're wearing

and with whatever dignity
they have left.

I've just quickly, in like, ten
seconds, stitched a little bow.

It's a bit scruffy looking,
but it looks better than a hole.

I can only sum it up with a face.

# Once

# Once upon a dream... #

Eight sensuous sleep sets made in
just five and a half hours.

But what will the judges think?

# I met her

# Once upon a dream

# Once upon a dream. #

It looks terrific.
Yeah, it does.

It looks casual and cool,

and I think it fits you nicely.

The shorts look great.

I really like how they fit her bum.

The lace across the chest is sitting
absolutely perfectly.

It's really, really good.
Thank you so much.

# Goodnight, sweetheart

# All my prayers are for you... #

Your lace and that soft
duck egg blue looks lovely,

but I think the shorts are
a little big

and I think the top is
a little small.

It looks like two bits that
don't quite sit together.

It's not an easy fabric to handle,
particularly cut on the bias,

but the hem's very neat

so I don't think you've done
a bad job at all.

What's the teddy called?
He's called Flop.

Flop.

I think Victorian men
all over Britain

will be getting hot under the collar
at this one.

You're not going to get cold
in that.

But somehow, it doesn't look heavy.

Looking at your pleats here,
this one's wider than that one.

But I think the trousers fit well
and it's nicely sewn.

Very nicely sewn, actually.

# Dream

# When you're feeling blue... #

I really like the combination
of colours

and it looks like it's
fitting nicely.

The lace is very neatly sewn,
but I think, for the shorts,

it's a shame you haven't trimmed
the bottom off your lace.

I absolutely agree.

We've got the scallop here and then
this makes it look really heavy.

# Last night I dreamed
Last night I dreamed

# I dreamed of you
I dreamed of you... #

It doesn't look like it's
a great fit over the bust.

It looks a little bulky.

Maybe because we've got
quite a lot of black.

It's not beautifully sewn
around the top,

and the bottom hem,
if you stretch it out...

If it was sitting straighter,
it would give a much more

elegant shape.

Also, this isn't level.

Can you see how much that's
much lower at the back?

The other thing I would say is,
this lace is see-through here

and this looks really solid.

It looks like these knickers
don't go with that top.

# Because I'm so

# So in love with you. #

I do like your combination
of fabrics.

It seems very you. Yeah.

But it's too tight over the bust
and this has stretched.

Also, something strange is going on
with this panel.

I don't know if you've stretched it
when you're sewing it.

It looks like a little section
needs to come out of here.

It's not as beautifully sewn
as I think we'd want

a piece of very delicate
nightwear to be.

And given that you made the shorts
in about 20 minutes,

I think these are arguably better.

I just want to see...

They've got a hole at the front. Ah!

Right.

Well, it was quite a good disguise.

# You needn't look to the moon

# To find your dream... #

I think this looks cute.

I like the main fabric.

I like how you've combined
it with the lace

and the bias binding.

You've really thought about
your combination.

The fit of it looks spot on.

The length of the shorts
is really nice.

The quality of the sewing throughout
is incredibly neat.

The lace is very, very accurate
and cleanly done.

It's a really successful sleep set.

# You must search in your heart

# Only there will you find
your dream... #

The whole thing doesn't look
like that cute babydoll

kind of thing.

It just looks a bit leaden.

You've got the fit quite
badly wrong.

If I turn you to the side, should
this not all be hanging level?

Yeah, the strap was about
a centimetre and a half too long.

I mean, I think the straps are more
like six centimetres too long.

Can I look at the knickers?

They don't fit very well, do they?
No.

It's baggy under the bum.

I totally missed the mark today.

It was kind of like the Sewing Bee
version of a car crash.

Let's hope I live to see
another day.

I was very happy with the comments.

If it's enough to get me through
to the next week,

that would be lovely.

I think I could be in danger.

There was no way I could disguise
a big gaping hole in the front.

It's been really tough.

Hopefully I've done enough
to scrape through.

Yeah, you just don't know.

Don't know.

Lingerie and Sleepwear Week -

has anyone had their trousers
pulled down?

Well, it's definitely proven
difficult.

Very difficult.

Who's up for Garment Of The Week,
do we think?

Therese's sleep set is
absolutely phenomenal.

This piece of sewing has
saved her bacon. Yes.

Who else is in contention?

Well, Liz's sleep set
looked really cool.

It fitted really well.

The fit was perfection.

Now, on the other side,
you've got Nicole.

She had such a good day yesterday,

but Nicole's Made-to-Measure was
a bit of a disaster for her.

So she's definitely in trouble.

And who else is up against her
for going home?

Very surprisingly, I think Ali is.
Yes.

This is supposed to be a piece
of delicate nightwear.

Anyone can make a silly mistake
and cut a hole,

but I think the standard of
the sewing wasn't great,

and the fit wasn't great, either.

And Matt.

The fit was pretty poor.

That's not the sort of standard
that we'd expect at this point.

Am I getting the impression that
this is a really close one?

Yes. But there's one that,
on reflection,

has definitely done a little worse
this week.

Well, we made it through
Lingerie Week.

We have two things to do,

and the first one is a nice one.

Patrick, tell us who's won
Garment Of The Week.

Our Garment Of The Week
this week is...

Ooh!

..Therese.

I'm gobsmacked.

We were hoping for exquisite
nightwear,

you delivered exquisite nightwear.

Very well done.

OK. This was a really tough one
for the judges,

but somebody does have to go home.

And I can now reveal that
that person is...

..Ali.

No, it's all right. It's fine. No!

I thought it was me.
No, it could have been me.

You are such a brilliant sewer.

It's been fantastic, and I think
I've done Yorkshire proud.

We're going to miss you so much.

It's going to be so quiet now.
It is.

It hasn't felt like I've been
on Sewing Bee,

it's just felt like I'm having
some crazy days away

with friends, sewing.

Can I apply again next year?

Don't be sad.

I'm really surprised that
it's Ali going.

I'm going to miss her.
I'm going to miss her tonnes.

I really am.

Give us a hug.

Ali's personality shone out.

The fabric choices, they were always
quite loud, expressing who she is.

I loved that. I will really
miss her.

I had all my stuff packed
ready to go.

I can't believe...

It's just ridiculous.

How things can turn
on a sixpence, eh?

With Ali going, it shows it could
happen to any of us, any time.

But I'm really enjoying it
and I want to carry on.

But we'll see. One week at a time.

Next time...
This is going to be fun.

..it's Reduce, Re-use
and Recycle Week...

This one I'm cutting is
my husband's jumper.

..as the sewers turn
women's cast-offs

into a menswear classic...

Oh, that's going to be so tasteless.

..transform laundry bags
to glad rags...

Not giving the desired...

..and, in the Made-to-Measure,
grant old jumpers

a glamorous new lease of life.

Yes!
Who will impress the judges?

I think it's one the best things
I've seen on Sewing Bee.

And who will get binned?

That is an absolute bodge.