04x04 - International Week

[bunniefuu]

As we enter our fourth week,
our magnificent seven sewers

are about to tackle techniques
and fabrics from all over the world.

The Great British Sewing Bee
is going international.

At the last sewing bee...

I haven't got a bloody clue.

..things got a little bit
50 Shades..

At my age, I should know better.

..as the sewers
got their hands on lingerie.

How can that fit on someone's boob?

Charlotte won garment of the week
for the first time...

APPLAUSE

..and after a disastrous
Made-to-measure...

Jamie, isn't it a bit late for
cutting out? Yeah, it is.

..Jamie's time in the sewing room

ended earlier than anyone
was expecting.

You've been a bright star, Jamie.

Now the seven remaining sewers...

Ooh-ah.

..will travel the world...

Oh, come on.

..with a Pattern Challenge
from the Far East...

Origami here. I'm losing my marbles.

..an Alteration that could
last forever...

Blimey. It goes on and on and on.

..and a Made-to-measure...

Look, you're matching. Yes -

I thought I'd have a go with a
piece, you see?

..all the way from West Africa.

Josh.

How are you?

I'm all right, yeah. How are you?

# Come fly with me

# Let's fly, let's fly away. #

My tactic for this week is not to
overcomplicate things.

Right, Joyce?

I'm sorting myself out.

I am actually going to go
more simple

but try and present
a perfect garment.

Look what I've found.
An unpicker, Joyce.

Well, I've been using my little
one all this time.

Not that I've used it a lot,
you understand.

I think mine's gone blunt.

LAUGHTER

I never thought I would be the last
man standing.

I need to start climbing up the
ladder in the first two challenges.

They are the ones that I have
struggled with every week.

We are all on a knife edge.

Everybody is good.
All it takes is one bad day

and any of us could be leaving.

Good morning, sewers.

Now, this week each challenge
focuses on a different country

or a different culture.

Feeling OK so far? No. OK.

Quite a lot of shaking heads.
All right.

Patrick, what do you have for them?

I'll hand you out a pattern.

A Chinese top.

This one is called a qipao.

It's tight fitting,

it's got a Mandarin collar

and it's made with
an elaborate brocade.

Has anybody made anything
like this before?

No.

Welcome to International Week.

You have three hours and 45 minutes.

Your time starts now.

Whoo!
LAUGHTER

No running.

Mine.

Ha-ha-ha.

If you're having that,
I'm having red.

Do you want to swap? Yeah!

I've chosen this really nice
teal brocade.

I really love the colour.

I've gone for green just because I
think it looks really rich

and, like, emerald green,

although I'm sure my Chinese friend
is going to be like, "No, red.

"Red, prosperity." I think.

Silk brocade has been worn in
China since the Middle Ages.

Its combination of fine silk

and gold thread demands very
skilful sewing.

I have worked brocade before
and it just frays like mad.

Why International Week?

Well, we are surrounded
in this country

by clothes from all over the world,

and so many of these pieces of
clothing we see every day

have inspired and transformed
Western clothing.

Let's talk about this top.

It looks incredibly tricky.

It will be tricky.

It's asymmetrical.

This edge is not on the grain

so they have to be really careful
how they sew that

and don't stretch it.

This collar looks tricky.

They have to sew this
Mandarin collar

with complete and utter precision.

Yes, it will be really obvious
if it is not the same at the front.

It will be really obvious
if it doesn't fit here

and that has to be
beautifully top-stitched.

We are looking for these panels
to fit flush to the mannequin.

And the darts have to
be on the same level

and they mustn't be what
I call "poky".

OK, so it's a closely fitted,

really quite complex garment

made with fabric that frays.

Yes. Correct. Wow.

Never made a Chinese top before.
I have worn one.

It is something that, hopefully,
I would like to wear

if I get the opportunity afterwards.

The qipao style top pattern
contains seven separate pieces.

Darts are sewn into the main front
and back pieces to give shape.

The two front panels are stitched
to the back at the shoulders.

An invisible zip is added to the
right seam

and a Mandarin collar is
attached to the neck.

This is the first time
I have worked with brocade.

The fabric is quite slippery

so I've decided to use my pattern
weights to put it down

in the right places,
and then I'll pin it.

I went for the double pins
and weights option

just to be really sure
nothing's moving!

There is two darts in the back
and four in the front,

which is quite a few darts.

I am tailor-tacking, so that I know
where my darts need to go.

Tailor's chalk rubs off shiny fabric

so the sewers need to find
other ways

to mark the crucial positioning
of the darts.

So, I'm just marking the dots of the
dart with the pins.

Mark out all the different
points in dot to dot,

join it together, make a dart.

I'm just go to join up
the dots with a pen

so I can see what I need to do.

It's very important that the
darts are even.

Because this is such a
tight-fitting garment,

if they're not, then it will just
look skew-whiff.

Once marked, the fabric in the dart
is folded in on itself

and secured with
a line of stitching.

The darts are tricky

only because you've got to have
a nice, soft taper.

You can't have a lump either end.

I'm leaving the pins in.

Sometimes I take them out
so I don't sew over them,

but in this case I'd rather
break a needle.

Take out my tailor's tack.

With a press,
that's the first one done.

Have you put the darts in?
I have one dart in.

Have you ever done
anything like this before? No.

I've never done
anything like this before.

I haven't worked with this
type of fabric before.

Now, I don't want to bring up last
week's Pattern Challenge...

Yes, you do.
Yeah, I can't help myself,

but is it important to you
that this week you do well?

Absolutely, yeah.

It's important that I finish
and I do well.

But not everyone's making progress.

Are you all right? I'm OK, yeah.

It's just taking me a while
to cut out and transfer the markings

and stuff like that.

So you haven't done any sewing
at all? No.

I want you to get a move on.
Yeah, I know.

Is it bad that I am saying that?
It's because I love you, Josh.

I know. I know.
It's my trouble, you see?

Do you need this situation?

Yeah. Shall I bring it?
Yes, please, yeah. All right.

This is a beautiful fabric.
Thank you.

# I'd love to get you

# On a slow boat to China... #

Once the darts are finished,

there's even more precision required
around the neckline.

Is this bias binding?

This is bias binding.

You are brilliant, Joyce.

I've just been at Josh's station.

He has literally just opened
the pattern.

The bound asymmetrical neckline

is the most noticeable part
of the garment.

The binding appears to go here.

It just takes a lot of concentration
to make sure

that you're pinning the right
sides together.

Any flaws here and the classic lines
of the qipao will be ruined.

Don't stretch it.

See that row of stitching there?
Yes. That holds it.

OK, but it's not pulled? Oh, no.

So I need to trim all this
excess away

and then I'll be able to fold it
around like that

and that's how it should finish off,

so you won't be able to see any of
the bias binding.

It will be a nice clean edge.

While most of the sewers are using
the machine to attach their binding,

Joyce has other ideas.

My hand stitching is nothing
compared to Charlotte's

but it's on and it's secure.

So now I'm concentrating on this
little bit here.

Good morning. Good morning.
Good morning, Jade.

How are you getting on?
Good. I've got my binding.

Show me the...

So, you sew it on and then it says
fold it in half

and then top-stitch it on.
And what does it say halfway down?

"Fold the binding to the wrong
side of the garment

"and press the pin in place."

Oh, so the binding goes actually on
the whole of the inside, does it?

What does it say?

I did read it! Did you?

Yes, I did read it. Yeah?
Obviously, er... Yeah.

We wrote it in English, too.

Are you sure?

The binding goes along the inside.

I've just learnt that.

The penny is dropping
all around the room. Mm.

What are we doing? I did that.
Yeah. But it doesn't.

It goes on at the inside.
Oh, it doesn't?

Oh, all that hand-sewing
for nothing.

Oh, I prefer it showing.

Yeah, same. I was proper happy with
my top stitching. Dare I leave it?

Isn't that more interesting?

I'm going to leave it.

Honestly, I like that.

So I'll be marked down, but...

"With the right sides together,

"pin and sew the two front panels

"to the back panel
at the shoulder seam."

The pattern demands that the qipao
closes from left to right.

I'm just trying to make sure I am
crossing the right piece

over the right piece.

The Chinese considered a right
to left fastening barbaric.

I'm just trying to work it
out in my own mind.

Origami here.

I'm losing my marbles.

Right. Okey dokey.

So many parts to it, with the left
front, the right front, the upper...

It's just very confusing
to keep track.

I honestly don't...
I'm not on track,

but I don't think I'm a
mile behind where I want to be.

That goes over there,

that goes over there. OK.

Right, next.

Oh, God, the zip.

We've seen some of them
insert invisible zips,

but it's never been in a
Pattern Challenge before.

Can we talk about this one?
Because this one looks tricky.

Will you open it for me
and describe, Esme?

Right.

So what's important here is
that this invisible zip

goes up to this point here.

So it won't go all the way to the
top, so they're going to have

to put the invisible zip in first
and then put this on.

It's just more the positioning
of the zipper, I think, on this one.

If you look at the back of it,

the zip notch is quite far down
in comparison to the top,

so I don't know what way it sits,
to be honest.

Where do you line-up the top
of the zip? On the left, front?

I think you've got to do it to that
side of the zipper tape,

so that when it all gets turned
the right way out,

you won't see
the edge of the zipper tape.

Oh, I see.

Happy with it so far? Erm...hm.

Got a bit confused with the zip.

Well, it should finish up here.

I know, and I tried to measure it
out but it just didn't...

Because all of a sudden now, this is
going somewhere very different. Oh.

I measured it out and everything,
and it didn't really work like that.

I think you might have to just...
Make do. ..press on. Oh, no, right.

Let me see.
That goes like so, I hope.

Jade, the side with the zip... Yeah?
Because I'm totally confused there.

I would have left that
open on the armhole.

And it doesn't say to
in the pattern. No.

Doesn't that make sense to leave
it open there?

One hour left...

on your first
International Challenge.

This is where the
garment's going to start,

hopefully, coming together.
This is a Mandarin collar.

Never done one of these before.

It's a little collar that just
stands up all the way round

close to the neck.

You've got to iron up this edge
a centimetre all the way along.

Ow! Without burning your fingers.

Hah! It's hot, it's hot, it's hot.

The thing they're going to be
looking for is that it's the same.

Got to try and make sure
I keep it really symmetrical.

I've sewn the collar together
and pressed under the underside.

And I'm now attaching it
to the neck.

That gets pressed it like that.
Duh-duh.

So that's where we're at
at the moment.

My collar is going in.

Whether it's a good collar
or a bad collar, I've no idea -

I've never made one of these before.

I think I'm handling it OK.
OK, that's that bit done.

Showing the armhole facings,

just catching them at top
and bottom shoulder seams.

Just so they don't all pop
out like that, look, see?

Normally you'd
sew it all the way round.

Half an hour left, sewers,
half an hour left.

We've only got half an hour left,

so we're not sewing it all
the way around.

I'm just finding the middle
point of the collar.

Then, when I find the middle
point of the neckline,

I know how much ease is going
to have to go in either side.

Oh, come on.

Get your boobies out the way!
Do you need a hand, Charlotte?

I can't get it on... Yes, please.

If you have a minute.

I can help squeeze your shoulders.
You squeeze my shoulders.

There we go. There we go. Phew!

Seriously, imagine actually
having to...

Did I undo the zip?
Have you undone the zip?

I haven't undone the bloody zip!
That helps, doesn't it?

What a good idea if I undid the zip.

The zip is undone.

I stretched out my neckline.

Can do nothing about that.
Shouldn't have looked.

I just put my top on my mannequin
and I realised

I stretched out the front edge,
so I'm a bit annoyed about that.

It's stretched out because I didn't
do the stay stitching.

Because I didn't
read the pattern properly.

The judges are so going to notice.

15 minutes left. Right, let's do it.

Let's get the old frogging on.

Frogging is an ornamental fastening

traditionally used on Chinese
garments instead of buttons.

Look, isn't that pretty?
That's so pretty!

Yes, I thought so.

You know where the frogs go

because there's actually
a marking on the pattern.

It's not made easier

by the mannequin being
a lot taller than me.

I love what hand sewing does
for a garment,

I just bloody hate doing it.

It just really needs a press,
but I don't think I'll have time.

One more. I've run out of thread.

Oh, I'm so annoyed. What's the hem?

Just a single fold? I'm doing it
twice because it's just such a mess.

Look at the bottom of it now.

SHE LAUGHS

See, I've got threads everywhere.

Never ideal to sew a hem in a rush.
Ever.

Tracey's happy! Are you done?

Yeah, I think so. Tracey, shout
for me "two minutes". Two minutes.

Are we all done?

No, that was too nice, you have to
do it with slightly more aggression.

Just two minutes!

A shock you had to say
my name here, look.

Two minutes, blimey.

I don't how you work
this contraption.

Right, just ease it over.

OK, the challenge is over.

Scissors down, scissors down.
My hands are here.

Take your mannequins over to the
judges.

Mine's had a drink.

Seven qipao tops made from scratch -

but what will Esme and Patrick

make of the first garments
of International Week?

Angeline, you're up first.
Please bring your top forward.

It's a little bit tight. Mm-hm.

It could have been because on each
seam you took too much

on the four darts and the two seams.
Mm-hm.

Let's undo here.

That's pretty good.

I think this could have been
pressed a bit better.

And can you see how this
is slightly baggy here?

That collar is a little square,
and that one's a little round,

which is throwing me off
a little bit.

It's all there,
it just lacks a little finesse.

The front of this is really smooth
and flat. The collar looks even.

That's in well.

All the important bits are right,

all the darts
are in the right place.

The armholes look
really neat and smooth.

It's a really clean, crisp,
precise piece of sewing.

There's not much I can really say
to fault it. Thank you.

You've done well. Thank you.

So, the first thing that strikes me

is that you've taking your own
path to finishing this edge.

Honestly, I misread the pattern.

I was actually going to come back to
that and alter it, if I had time.

OK. So, there's that.
Let's have a look at your zip.

Something is completely wro...

You've done it your own way,
you've given us a bound edge

and you've given us
a completely different opening,

but actually you've done it quite
nicely and it sits well.

The darts are good,
the collar looks good, but...

It's not what we asked for.

You're infuriating, Joyce.
I'm sorry.

And... I'm sorry. I did try.

Let's have a look at the zip.
OK, well, it goes up and down.

But I think it can't quite be high
enough. Did you go to the notch?

I think I mismatched my notches.

So we've got one where the
bosom will be coming through. Yeah.

You've sewn the darts nicely.

But it's all in the right place,
it's just...

Still waiting for that
perfect sew. Yeah.

You haven't quite got
this bit right.

This zip should have finished higher
up, which would have lifted that up.

There's all sorts of stuff that's
just pulling it out of shape here.

And you've also
overstretched this edge.

Give it a little move around and
it's starting to open up and gape.

Judges.

Don't make me cry.
This one's not breaking. I know.

Because so much of it is so good,
the darts are really neat,

the seams are well together, and
then you've just gone and done this.

You've stretched that whole front
edge so far out of shape that,

really, it's kind of...
barely wearable.

Everything else is sewn really
nicely and beautifully.

I'm really upset. This just wasn't
a good one for you. No.

Thank you very much, thank you,
Charlotte.

WHISPERS: Don't worry, it's only
sewing, it's only sewing. It's OK.

HE EXHALES

Right, Josh. Well, I don't think
you've done badly at all. Thank you.

The collar is pretty even.
The zip...

..is pretty good as well.

The most obvious bit, for me,

is the way that it's
sitting across the chest.

And this is sitting really
nicely across the chest.

You've got your binding,

the accuracy with which
you've top-stitched it round there

is really good.

You were slow into it,
but once you got there,

it's a really good piece of sewing,

so you should be
very pleased with it.

Thank you very much.
Yes, you've done well. Thank you.

Esme and Patrick will now reveal
who has mastered the qipao.

In seventh place, after much
philosophical rumination,

it's Joyce.

And only because you didn't follow
the instructions.

In sixth place is Jade.

The front was wobbly,
the zip wasn't in the right place.

'Charlotte is fifth. Rumana is forth

'and Angeline is third.'

In second place...

..is Josh. And well done, Josh.

This is what it feels like to
be in the top two!

You did really well,

and you were really panicked at the
beginning but you pulled it back.

Thank you. So, our winner is Tracy.

APPLAUSE

Very crisp,
beautifully flat around the chest,

a beautiful piece of sewing.

Well, you can go and celebrate,

make an enormous fuss
of Josh, who...

Yeah. Thank you. Very well done.
..came second.

And then when you come back,

there will be the International
Alteration Challenge.

# I'm mad about the boy... #

Well done, Tracy. Well done, Josh.

I'm sorry I've kind of stole
your thunder.

You're all right, darling,
you're all right.

This feeling is as good a scoring
the winning goal in football.

Not that I get the chance
to score very often.

Absolutely chuffed to bits.

Really, really thrilled with that.

That wasn't my favourite
judging experience.

I think if Joyce hadn't had
done a Joyce,

I definitely would have
been in seventh place.

Everybody thinks I went off-piste,

but there were only two things,
you know, that I did differently!

My favourite bit,
I'm not sure it's yours,

but are you ready for your
International Week

Alteration Challenge?

As ready as we'll ever be.

We're giving you a garment

with literally yards of beautiful
embroidered fabric.

GASPS

Hey!

It is, of course, a sari -

and from this we'd like you to make

a piece of
Eastern-inspired clothing.

Remember, the cutting from the East

is quite often based on a rectangle,
a triangle or a square.

All right, judges, you have to leave
now. Off you go. Are you sure?

Yes, goodbye. Goodbye.
The Monopoly board is set up.

OK, you all have a selection of
saris, choose your favourite.

You've got an hour and a half.
Your time starts now.

Reveal. This one?

Go for some of those.

I'll take this one. That's
a nice one. Do you want that one?

That's gorgeous. I want one with a
big border, so I'm having this one.

I'm picking her up. How do you even
get these things undone?

Charlotte!

Blimey! It goes on and on and on.

It just keeps going!

The fabric is sheerer
than I imagined.

Consequently, I think
it's got to be very gathered.

You know, or else you'll
see your knickers through it.

This fabric is quite sheer.
So you don't want something tight.

What I'm looking for

is just a sympathetic use of
all of the bits of the sari fabric.

How much plain fabric they have
versus the embroidered sections,

and how they use those,
I think, will be important.

The colours are vibrant,
the embroidery is gorgeous,

so we want them to make something
absolutely fabulous.

My plan is to make what
we call an anarkali.

Anarkali.

I'm going to use the blouse bit
of the sari,

and then make these panels,
stitch them together,

and it gives a really flowy skirt.

I'm going to stitch here
for the armholes

and have something flowing down,

so it's going to be like
a floaty, boxy top.

When my dad used to
work in the Middle East... Yeah?

..he used to bring home lots of
things like this.

They're basically rectangles,

so I'm going to use the border

on the sleeve and on the bottom.
Gorgeous.

I want to make like a Turkish belly
dancer's outfit.

SHE HUMS

With, like, baggy trousers
and then a crop top.

I think I might make some
Israeli trousers.

I'm making trousers
like out of Aladdin.

If I took that off...

OK.

Going to make loose trousers.

One hour remaining to
transform a sari.

I need to measure
the crotch distance,

because you don't want your
pants too tight,

and I think I want them quite loose.

I'm just measuring the length,

just so that I can get
the measurement spot on.

I've cut it so that the top

and the bottom of the trousers
have this nice trim on it.

I'm thinking about how wide
actually I need the body part to be.

I might make to fit me,
never mind the dummy!

SHE LAUGHS

Then I can wear it.

Hello, darling. Hello.
What are you making?

I'm sewing these panels
that make the skirt,

so it comes out in a flared skirt.
GASPS: Oh, look!

That's so beautiful.

I thought it'd be a real shame
if we didn't do a sari.

I've got loads at home,
so it'll be really interesting

to see what everyone comes up with,

because then I can just
refashion them.

Maybe not my mum's wedding ones
and things, but, you know...

Sewers, you are halfway through.

This is the little slit
at the bottom of the side seam.

Not the easiest
thing in the world to sew,

because the diamonds
or whatever you call them

keep stopping your needle.

I'm just sewing the inseam
of my trouser legs.

Going really slowly over this
big embroidered bit,

because it's got little gems in it.

Makes it less likely
that you'll break a needle...

I'm sewing in the sleeve and the
side sleeve all in one,

so it's like up and across.

The sleeve when it's done will
look like a big square.

I'll just stretch the elastic
as I sew it

and then it should fit
nicely around her waist.

Doesn't quite meet over her hips.

She has got quite an odd butt.

Whilst his trousers ARE fitting,

Josh still has another
garment to make.

I'm now trying to decide
how I'm going to make my top.

I want to use this,

but I want it to be a little bit
more revealing

cos it is going to be
a belly dancer top.

Sewers, you have half an hour left,

to change a sari into...
something else.

I'm gathering
the trousers at the bottom,

and these are the cuffs
that they're going to go in.

Have to make sure you can get
your feet over it,

and let's just hope it comes off

and the judges
forgive me for this morning.

I might need to take
the top in a little bit.

I just want to check it fits...

It'll be a disaster if it doesn't
fit, which is kind of doesn't.

Her butt is so big...

But I'm just going to add
a teeny-tiny panel,

just from there to there.

It doesn't fit!

Oh... What to do?

Will you do it on the other side?

If I have time to do it
on the other side.

OK. So I need to undo this bit...

Just going to make
a gap in the seam, to open that up.

There's triangles in the sari,

so I'm just attaching the trimming
at the base of the kimono.

Can't touch this!

No, you can't.
This...is Hammer Time(!)

This will be the sleeves
for the belly dancer crop top thing.

Look how beautiful this is!

Are you making a waistband?

No, I'm going to hide
the horrible front.

So do a nice panel! Exactly.
A bit like Esme's wearing today.

So I've sewn to the
inside of my waistband some casing,

and I'm going to feed some elastic
through and then sew it shut.

I'm just sewing the elastic straight
into the actual thing itself...

I'm gathering
the fabric into the bottom cuff -

I've got to get a lot of fabric
in a very small opening.

You have ten minutes left, sewers!

Oh, blimey.

Just keep stitching,
just keep stitching...

Speed sewing is required.

Sorry...

Just hand-stitched this on.

This is a secret,

to hide the fact

that I need to be able to get it
onto the mannequin...

I've not only used all of the trim,

I was scraping to get
the final bits for my cuffs.

Got a bit of a big bum,
this model...

SIX minutes!

Oh, shush, Claudia!

Exactly what I was hoping for,
puffy at the ankle...

Ooh, I like that bit,
I might have that on it.

The panel obviously isn't
an ideal thing to add in...

Spotted on the little top
that came with it,

so I'm going to just hand-sew them
on the front of there.

Josh is the only person
who's made TWO pieces.

Good for Josh.

Can't even thread
the needle at the moment.

One minute.

There won't be a fastening on the
back, because we haven't got time.

I just think stitching is probably
better than a pin in the back.

Come on!

You'd wear that on the beach,
wouldn't you? Course I would!

Time's up! That's it.

Well done, everybody.

All right, come on, guys.
To the front, jiggle them around...

Well done, love.

Seven saris totally transformed -

but what will the judges
make of the sewers' attempts

at Eastern-inspired alterations?

MUSIC: Sweet Song Of India
by The McGuire Sisters

Wow. I'm absolutely delighted,
these are genuinely fantastic. Yeah.

They fill the brief, hey?

MUSIC: I Am The Walrus
by Lord Sitar

I think this looks great.

It's very clearly Eastern
in its inspiration. Yes.

It's got a lovely shape to it.

Fantastic use of the border here...

and here, and on the bottom.

And we've got this little detail
here. This is lovely.

It's great! I love this detail.
I mean, really well thought out.

We have some harem pants.
Yeah. I love these.

I'd love to wear...something
very similar!

Right! Possibly even these ones
in a quiet moment.

Trousers are such
a beautiful, full shape.

And they've made a channel
for the elastic to go in.

The gathers are very even...

I mean, these trousers
just look absolutely spot on.

I love 'em.

That's a kimono shape... Yeah.

..but they've cut it all in one.

So we've only got one seam here...
Yeah.

Simple shapes.

They've thought about

how they've used the borders...

Can you see we've got a V here
and we've got a V here, as well?

Yeah. So that's been really...

well thought about.
Is that the same both sides? No. No.

Something's happened here where
they've seamed the border

and they've seamed it here,
so obviously it wasn't long enough.

They've run out of border, perhaps.

So, again, we've got
a drawstring trouser.

This one not QUITE so good.

And this person's used their top,
and they've lengthened it...

They've given us a lot
in a very short space of time -

I just think it's not quite as neat
and tidy as some of the others...

and it is just too
small on the trousers.

We've got elastic here...

So they've
done the same with the border.

It's a bit snug around the seat.

Oh... Hang on a minute.

What's happened here?

Well, obviously it was
MUCH too small

and they've had to insert
a panel...?

Maybe there wasn't enough material.

If they'd inserted
a panel on the other side

we could have said it was jodhpurs.

It's got a really nice shape to it,

all of these panels work
extremely well... Yes.

I just feel that this is
a little heavy.

I quite like it.

That's cos you're almost wearing it!

Here's MY version.

They obviously got inspired by me.

Funnily enough,
now I think about it...

I like it,
I think it gives it an accent.

It's pretty, isn't it? It is.
The whole thing is...

I think the whole thing works.

Our second pair of very full
harem-style pants.

Which, again, I think are really
pretty successful,

I think the shape
is fantastic on them.

They're very, very long, actually.
They're very long.

Can we get in? No...
Or is it just a band?

It's almost like it's been sewn
onto the stand. I think it has.

That is a drawback.
Definitely. Definitely!

It's a stunning effect -
but how do we get in?

The judges will now rank
the altered saris,

starting with the least successful.

Number seven, pink trousers.

Oh, that's me.

The reason for this is
they don't fit very well. Mm.

Sixth place,
the turquoise harem pant.

Joyce. They're a beautiful shape,
they absolutely fulfil the brief -

you just can't put 'em on.

In fifth place is Josh...

Angeline is fourth,

and Rumana is third.

In second place...

..is the purple pants.

Charlotte.

I want to see you wearing them!
Absolutely. I love them.

You've grabbed this brief, you've
used every bit to perfection...

Thanks. Well done. Thank you.

In first place...

is this, which is fabulous.

Yay!

Tracey! For the second time today...

A double first. A double first.

I think I'm getting
the hang of this now!

You've used the elements of the sari
really nicely.

Thank you.

An enormous well done to all of you.

Go home, eat something
international,

and we will see you
back here tomorrow

for the big
Made-to-measure Challenge.

Off you go.

What a day!

Yeah, what a day. Hey, superstar.

To actually get two firsts
is really more than I expected.

Seriously, can I have yours?!
Can I have it?

SHE LAUGHS

In terms of the first day

this has definitely been
my most successful -

in fact you could probably say
this has been

my only successful first day!

But I don't feel safe,
in the slightest.

Well done. That's good.

Coming seventh and then sixth today
is not my best day,

and I feel rather despondent.

So I'm going to have a very,
very large glass of wine,

and something to eat
and watch a bit of telly.

There's one challenge
left in International Week.

In just a few hours, someone
will win Garment of the Week.

And somebody else will have to
leave the sewing room.

For me there's only one person

who's really stood out this week,
and that's Tracey.

Let's talk about Josh.

He did really well
on the Chinese top.

He normally waits
until the Made-to-measure

before he pulls his finger out.

Joyce, who had a brilliant week last
week, almost came bottom in BOTH.

Is she in trouble? She hadn't
followed the pattern. Yeah.

Jade and Joyce are in the most
precarious position.

Unless she has a horrible disaster,
Tracey is fine.

But I don't think any of those
others are absolutely safe at all.

Everyone's future in the Sewing Bee
now rests on their ability

to make an international garment

not to fit a mannequin,
but a real person.

Hiya. Hello, darling!

Good morning, sewers!

For your Made-to-measure Challenge

the judges would love you
to create a dress

that's been inspired by West Africa.

They've asked you to use
a wax print fabric.

You have five and a half hours.

Enormous luck -
your time starts now.

Whilst the sewers have
had a chance to practise

their dresses at home...

(She's getting naked.)

..now they'll have to perfect
the fit on their model,

with their chosen
West African fabric.

Oh, I do like this fabric,
I must confess.

The fabric definitely has a weight
to it. It's not too slippery...

and it just feels like it's going
to be really nice on the body.

Traditional West African dresses
are very, very fitted,

very sculptural, it's all
about accentuating the female form,

producing that beautiful hourglass.

But then on top of that
you've got structured peplums...

It's exaggerated,
these are occasion pieces.

The fabric has a rigidity about it,

which enables you to get a really
good shape on the peplum,

and sticking out,
and the shoulders -

and it'll keep its shape.

Wax print fabric,
often called ankara,

is actually an imitation of batik,

an ancient Indonesian technique

that utilises hot wax and dye to
create colourful patterns on cloth.

In 1854 a Dutch textile company
found a way to mass-produce

a batik-style fabric, and tried to
sell it to customers in Indonesia.

They were less than impressed.

The mechanisation process caused
imperfections in the textile.

So you got a kind of crackle effect.

Which made it seem
sort of hugely inferior,

so people really did not want to buy
this product in Indonesia.

But Dutch traders
found a new market.

Ships carrying the fabric to
and from Indonesia

were stopping in West Africa

where it was swapped
for food and essentials.

BECAUSE of its imperfections the
locals fell in love with wax print,

as each piece
was seen as totally unique.

In West Africa, where they
were being traded by saleswomen,

these women would give the
particular patterns stories,

or give them local names.

So it became really
ingrained in the local culture.

The Dutch printers were keen to
listen to local saleswomen

about what they wanted in the way
of colour and design.

It became much more of a kind of
two-way process,

and you would start to see
local stories, local myths,

images of things with particular
symbolic meaning

becoming part of the pattern.

So it really becomes an important
communicative fabric.

Wax print is as popular in West
African design as it's ever been.

The reason why it's so popular
and it's lasted to long

is because it's cotton.
Africa's a very hot continent.

So it's very breathable,

and you get so many designs that you
don't have to stop on one print.

The stiffness of the fabric

makes it perfect for creating
structure,

so you can make things
like beautiful bows -

even make crazy head wraps
and make them stand.

The fabric sits really well
on the body,

especially if it's bespoke and
tailor-made

to the person's measurements.

But how will OUR sewers cope,

making bespoke dresses with this
unique fabric?

I've got the same fabric as
Angeline. Which is always a worry!

Same fabric world. I know!

Crazy. Hashtag - awkward.
And that's before we even met!

Whilst cutting their complex
and bold prints...

the sewers need to
constantly think ahead...

(One, two, three, four, five...)

..to ensure the pattern will match
along the seams of their dress.

Are you thinking about how you're
placing your pattern

on the fabric?
Yeah, I've cut out the front

and I've arranged these three
up the centre front. All right...

I'm kind of focusing on the gold
as my elements

that I'm going to balance.

Tracey is making a fitted
knee-length dress

with capped sleeves

and a peplum at the waist.

Look, you're matching. Yeah.

I thought I'd have a go
with the piece.

Did you? Oh, so that is your trial?

Yeah, this is a piece of
ankara fabric.

Well - we've had a first
and a first from you. Yeah...

Are we going to get a full
house?

Well, hopefully.
You never know, do you?

Josh has chosen to make this final
challenge just a little bit harder.

I think I might be the only person
who's using the same fabric

in two different colours to
actually create a different effect.

He's aiming to match
his contrasting patterns

all the way through
the bodice and skirt

of his full-length fitted dress,

which has a peplum at the hem.

Straight lines are quite easy
to pattern-match,

but when you're trying to match
a pattern around a curve

that curve in opposite directions

it's then a little bit
more confusing!

Right...

If they think they've positioned
their pattern correctly...

I'm going to be very careful with
the placement of these circles

on the bust.

We want to
avoid circle boobs at all costs.

..the sewers' next challenge...

Mm, I'm glad we've got this
little trying-on...

..is to ensure their cut pieces
will fit their model.

Put your hand down, that one...

This is what you'd call
a princess seam dress,

which means the seams go over
the bust and down the front.

So that's where all the fitting
goes - everything relies on all

the panels intersecting together,
because it's in six panels.

So that everything can be adjusted
to get it really snug and tight.

Do you think that feels
too loose, there? A smidgen.

What I don't want is for it
to become too tight for you.

I'm concentrating on the fitting

around the waist
and around the sides.

It's hard to fit

because there is very little
movement in the actual fabric.

Angeline's tight-fitting bodice

will have an asymmetrical peplum

at the waist,

and her short dress will have a
choker in matching fabric.

It's just ensuring that
it moves the right way, as well -

it's all about showing off
the curves of the body.

Let's pull this in nice and tight,

let's take it in a bit here...

You can't do this anywhere else
but on the model.

Joyce is repinning her bodice,

hoping for a perfectly fitting
princess seam dress

with cap sleeves

in a partial waist peplum.

Can we ask you something?
Oh, go on, then.

Are you following instructions?

Absolutely.
I'm a changed woman today.

Fantastic. I'm biddable...

Biddable?! I can't imagine you
ever being biddable.

You ask me to do anything, Patrick,
and I'll do it. Right. Fine.

I'd like you to make this dress
beautifully. I will.

MUSIC: Pata Pata by
Miriam Makeba

And give me a spin...

While most of the sewers are
fitting using their final fabric...

I think...we'll be fine.

That's so much better.

..after struggling
in the first two challenges...

You want the fitting to just look
absolutely stunning.

..Jade is now taking extra
precautions.

Are you fitting with the lining?

I'm going to fit with the
lining in case it needs taking in,

because if I cut it out in the
actual fabric and it needs taking in

then the pattern match won't match.

Jade's fully lined
knee-length dress

will be boned at the bodice

and have a waterfall pleated peplum.

So this is one continuous piece
going all the way round, or...?

Well, I've actually cut it out
in the lining... Let's have a look.

So that one, obviously,
is at the front,

but it's got the pleats in,

so it will be more gathered. Yeah.

And then you attach the fuller one
on to it, which then obviously...

Cascades. ..goes down your bum.

Fitting a peplum to a standard
dress is hard enough...

So, basically, that will go like so.

Because that's curved
and this is straight, as you fit it,

it will make it stick out.

Can you see?
It's, like, filling a bit?

But with a bold pattern...

I'm just attaching the peplum
to the bodice.

..it's even harder.

I'm not finding it terribly easy
to pattern match.

Because I'm quite fussy,
I like to get it right,

but, um, sometimes perfection
just takes so much time.

Josh? How are you feeling?
Ask me again when I'm on the skirt.

Have you not started the skirt?
It won't take me too long.

My dress isn't going to have a
peplum. It's going to have a ruffle.

All of this fabric...
which is quite long,

is going to be gathered
around the waste.

Charlotte's
gathered ruffle

will flow from
a fitted bodice

into a
pencil skirt.

How is it? Good! I'm really pleased
with it. Lots and lots of gathering.

Oh, a boatload of gathering.
You're making a curtain.

Tell me again why you chose to do
this as a gathered rectangle,

rather than a gathered...

I wanted a lot of volume,
a really, really huge amount.

You're getting lots
of volume here. Yes.

But not necessarily
any more volume at the end.

It hopefully will sit nicely
once it's finished.

It's sort of hard to
tell at the moment.

It's going to be great, I'm sure.

I'm glad we had a chair.
Somehow you can say that...

and still make me terrified.
I don't know why.

Something... It's something
about the way you say it, I think.

Just imagine
I've said it differently.

(He hates the ruffle.)
Really? I can't do anything else.

I can't change my plan now.

I couldn't go and draft a peplum
and stick that on.

I'm halfway through
sticking this on.

Rumana has also committed to
something a little different.

They're probably going
to get a lot of peplums,

so I've actually not gone for that.

Instead, I've gone for
a cape to go with the dress.

Rumana's cape will be double layered

and split down the middle.

It'll cover her full-length,

fitted sheath dress.

My cape's big. It's structured.

I think using a double layer
has given a bit more body to it.

So far, so happy.

How much time do we have?

One hour left!

I'm just trying to work out the
best way to attach a peplum

that's actually
in four different sections.

It's not quite as easy as just,
you know,

putting a peplum on the
bottom of a dress,

because I need each four sections
to match up perfectly.

I mean, at this point it looks like
most of them are going to finish.

I'll check that it fits you.

Really, this challenges boils down
to how well they've fitted them.

Yes. Not just how well
they've sewn them.

It's not something
I'm used to doing.

I don't tend to make things
very fitted for myself.

Some people are quite crooked.

Well, most people have one
shoulder higher than the other

and one bosom bigger than the other.

Is that right? That is right, yes.
I wouldn't know anything about that.

No, of course you wouldn't.

So let me check I've got it level.

I'll take a little bit off the
front. That might make a difference.

This peplum can come up
a bit more, you know.

I managed to take it in a little
bit on one of the seams,

which has given me a little bit
more snugness around the waist.

It's better than it was.

With the skirt attached to it,

I need to bring it up
a fraction more

to fit as I would like it to fit.

OK, so that's fine...

As they make changes,
hoping to achieve a perfect fit...

Stop, stop, stop. Yep. A bit more.

..the sewers still need
to ensure their patterns

match across the seams
they're adjusting.

Moment of truth.

I'm hoping that the judges
will pick up on the fact

that I've tried to
match all the way across,

regardless of whether
it's on a curve or not.

Look at that, right there.
The lines practically match.

Across there.

Sewers, you have 30 minutes left.

Back's collapsing.
I would have a look at it.

My cape is done.
I'm just pressing it.

I'm going to attach
some straps to my dress.

Patrick noticed there was a bit of
fullness in the back.

Put it on me.

That is beautiful! Do you think?

I need to do the back.
I feel like a superhero.

Josh, how are you?

I'm all right, yeah, how are you?
Yeah, it's working.

See if it removes the fullness.

That feel OK?

You have four minutes left,
everybody.

Every time,
down to the last seconds.

Hello, gathered bottom.

Oh, my hook's not staying.

Do you want to come over here?
Quick, quick, quick.

Fits her, stunningly.

So happy.

Today was just literally
to prove myself to the judges.

Come out, come out. Ha! Ha-ha!

I love it. I am so happy with
the fit. Turn around, turn around.

One minute, sewers!

On your arm.

You look amazing!

I think the ruffle is excellent

and I don't care
if Patrick doesn't like it.

Let me know if you need me
to zip you up.

Oh, you look gorgeous!

OK, sewers, that is the end
of the challenge.

You have to walk away from Angeline.

Blimey.

Finished! Finished! I have finished!

I did it! Oh, my God.
Are you so happy?

MUSIC: Nylon Dress by Steven Amechi
and his Empire Rhythm Skies

The overall impression I'm getting
is that it doesn't fit very well.

And also...quite baggy here.

I agree with Esme. I can take in
six inches around the waist... Yeah.

..without it being really close.

You've lined your peplum. It's very
crisp and even around the hem.

There's a lot of good, crisp stuff.

I think it's just the fitting
really lets it down.

Well, I think yours does have
a wow factor, don't you? Yes.

THEY LAUGH
I love your nervous face!

What really works well is the scale
of the peplum

compared to the skirt.

You're the only person with a peplum

that's longer than the skirt
underneath it. Exactly.

And because you've lined it,
we can see absolutely all of that

movement in the peplum,
which is really impactful.

But the one thing is, you've hoiked
it up with the straps... Yeah.

..so it's not falling down,

but actually it's still too long
in the body.

But I think the choker brings
the whole thing together.

It has definitely got impact.

It has terrific impact. Yes.

You've thought about
the motif very carefully,

but it's just a little bulky
round the tummy.

There's just too much of it in the
middle. Do you agree or disagree?

Um, I'm actually more concerned
about the darts. They're quite high.

Oh, really? That is gaping, there.
And this side's not fitting great.

Can we have a look at the zip?
So you've matched that there. No.

Slightly off.
Fractionally, fractionally off.

It's a shame
because that bit's perfect.

Yeah, it is!
THEY LAUGH

I think I like it. Yes.

It's quite dramatic, isn't it?
It is, isn't it?

No peplums, no ruffles, no trains,
but there's drama.

I don't actually understand
why you didn't just sew this up.

Because you could have put this over
the head. That's true.

It does have a really nice
hourglass shape to it.

Actually, the dress itself
is very flattering.

There's quite a saucy bit on this.
Yes. Which is here.

Yes. So you see a tiny
bit of bosom. I like it.

I do. Why are you so shocked
at liking my sewing?!

Well, I don't know - cos I've never
seen anything quite like it before.

It's like something
from another planet.

Never mind another country.

But I think it works.
It does indeed.

MUSIC: Fire Fire Fire by Ebenezer
Calender & His Maringer Band

I think the overall impression
of the dress is very stunning.

The peplum's great. Thank you.

Definitely has a wow factor,
but it's a little bit too tight.

Can you see how it's pulling
over here? Yeah.

I also think it's a bit too
low here.

You did match it at the front.

I did, yeah. Give you credit
for doing that. Thank you.

I think, overall, it's crisply
finished, the straps are neat.

I just think it's a little bit snug
here and it's a bit low here. OK.

Your pattern is jarring.

We've got a triangle then
we've just got a smidge,

then we've got half a smidge,
then almost a whole triangle.

You've run it really nicely
down the centre,

but by the side of it is actually
a white triangle,

whereas this is a black triangle.

I feel it's a bit long in the back.
Can you see this? Yeah.

It's quite lumpy here. There's one
other thing. It's got a real curve.

Turn round. And I think this
side might be worse. Yes.

Something's gone wrong over the hip.
Can you see? Yeah.

It's got a curve here, so it's
almost like you took it in here,

but you didn't take it far
enough down.

Instead of going in, out, in, out,
it goes in, out, lump, in, out.

Which is really obvious.
It's a real shame, actually.

It's very crisp, very neat.
It looks really well fitted.

This is all flat here.
It's nice on the waist.

The seams look lovely and flat.

I think the fit, you've got that
lovely hourglass shape to it.

It's not too tight. No.

I also like the lining you did.

I wish there had been more of it...

Sorry. ..so we had
a bit more va-voom there.

I think, overall, the whole thing
works extremely well.

Oh, thank you so much.

Well done to all of you.

International Week,
by far my favourite.

Go and have a bun and a group hug.

When you come back, the judges will
announce the Garment Of The Week

and the person who will be
leaving the Sewing Room.

I've never sewn with
an African wax print before.

Love the fabric
and really enjoyed making it.

I think the judges will have a
really tough decision today,

cos there are a few people
had a bad day yesterday

but they've done better today.

I'm not ready to go home.

I want to stay here
and keep fighting and learning.

Sometimes you want to just be,
like, "You know what? Stuff it."

Chuck the whole thing
and just walk out.

But I don't want to go home yet.

Can we just remind ourselves
of the beginning of the day?

The people in the bottom
were Jade and Joyce.

Joyce's dress is in contention
for Garment Of The Week,

so I think Joyce has pulled
herself right out

of all discussion
on leaving the Sewing Bee.

In a nutshell... Yes.

..it boils down to a decision
between Josh and Jade.

Josh did have a good first day,

but this wasn't a successful
Made-to-measure Challenge. No.

It really wasn't.

It's really badly made,
I have to say.

You know, this lump here, on the
side, look, that is bad, bad sewing.

Jade, by contrast,
had a poor first day,

but I think this was one of our
better Made-to-measure Challenges.

The peplum's fabulous,
but it wasn't lined,

which would have emphasised that.

I think you might have
a genuinely impossible task.

I don't think it's a
straightforward one, at all. OK.

Well, we'll leave you to it
and we'll bring them in.

A huge well done to all of you. Look
at you, holding hands, a bit wobbly.

Let's not do the bad bit,
let's do the good bit.

So, our Garment Of The Week
this week...

is...this one.

The infuriating Joyce!
I mean, it's beautiful.

It's crisply sewn,
it was a beautiful fit.

Oh, thank you so much.
I've never seen anyone so shocked!

Thank you.
And now the less lovely bit.

We would like everyone to stay
in forever and ever and ever,

but unfortunately somebody's
got to leave the sewing bee

and the judges took a long time,
deliberated, chatted,

and the person who is leaving is...

..is Josh. Oh! I'm sorry!

Josh! I know. Oh, Josh, I'm sorry.

I've learnt so much from everyone
and they're all so open to teaching

and to helping and I think without
the help of some of them,

I probably wouldn't have made it
through the first week,

let alone to week four.

It's been fantastic having him here,

and it's great for him
to learn all sorts of new things.

I'm sure, when he leaves,

he'll be more adventurous
in what he makes.

Well done. Honestly. You've been
fantastic. Such a lovely guy.

He's so enthusiastic.
But I think this was just his week.

I'm so shocked.
I honestly thought it was me.

I think it was a difficult decision
to choose between Jade

and Josh, but Jade's Made-to-measure
was really very good.

I'm so relieved that they
didn't say, "Jade",

that I can prove myself next week

and I'm going to put absolutely
everything I've got into it.

Good luck, girls, eh?

I thought I was
on the way out today.

I'll celebrate with
my husband Hugh tonight

and, do you know, I think we've got
a bottle of champagne in the house.

I'm really happy
that I've got through, but...

I absolutely hate that
when somebody has to go.

Coming into the competition,
I thought that, you know,

it's a competition
and people are there for one reason,

but you're really not. You're not.

Doesn't matter, you know,
what stretch of life,

what your background is,
how long you've been sewing for.

You can learn
and you can learn very quickly

as long as you apply yourself
and I hope that I've proved that

to the judges as well
as to people that are watching.

Next time...

I'm too young for this.

..the sewers take a step back...

Super groovy.

..into the swinging '60s.

Sex, drugs and rock and roll.

They tackle dated machines...

Oh, this is weird, man.

..get groovy with PVC...

I wouldn't wear that stuff
if you paid me.

..and glamorous with vintage
patterns.

We're birthing. We're birthing.

But who will get
Garment Of The Week?

Magic!

And who will be the next to leave?

There's a black hole
in the corner of the room,

sucking all the time
into it. I call it Patrick!