03x02 - Chapter II - Undertow

[bunniefuu]

The sea takes away
a lot of important things...

Very often,
so many tragedies happened here.

When a man died at sea,

his wife spent the rest of her life

wearing black, and a veil on her head.

The women of Nazaré were
always counting the waves.

Nothing ever returned.

No equipment, not a buoy, not a hat...
Nothing, nothing, nothing.

The sea is so very dangerous.

And when it takes away,
it takes away forever.

There is no way to escape.

You think you have everything covered!

Helmet, flotation, pads.

Boom!

Holy sh--
almost through my face, huh?

Oh.

Holy moly.

- Hello?
- Hi.

I'm bleeding
through my nose and my--

I didn't hit my nose.

I mean, my sinuses
got ruptured or cut.

And I don't know what--

I've heard
that that's not a good--

Well, it's a terrible thing,
Garrett.

You could have
a freakin' concussion.

A what?

A concussion.
What did you hit?

How did you get cut?

Broke the board on my face.

So you could have
a concussion.

You could have
internal bleeding.

It's swollen, and I can
feel it in my teeth.

- Garrett--
- Almost went through my mouth.

Oh, my God.

I'm kind of over this whole thing.

What whole thing?

Whole, like...

You going out there, like...

Like, when is enough, enough?

Let me see.

Me too.

- Oh!
- Put it back on.

Put the ice back on.

Should you even
have been driving?

I'm fine.

Another injury.

Another freaking injury.

So now here you are,
not listening to the message

that you just got in Austin.

The board broke on my head.

Yeah, Garrett.

Stopped bleeding
pretty quick.

It's crazy.

I just definitely think your brain
should be checked.

I'm over him

just not being intentional
with his life.

We're a little concerned
about--

I have blood
coming out of my nose.

So maybe brain or sinus.

Up there, please.

Is there any way to do a
brain scan here, or no?

First, this, and then we will...

What are they doing?

Nicole, can you type in
"concussion" and show her?

Try not to talk so she can work.

How many stitches
is it gonna be, like, 20?

Yeah.

Well, I have some good news
and bad news...

OK.

There's no head lesion,

but you have a face fracture.

And that fracture can explain
the nosebleed.

It will stop by itself.

But you should avoid physical performance

that can lead to further injury.

At that point,
I was so excited to surf.

I was so revved up.

And then, boom, it just
ended it all with that.

It made me feel like
I'm failing, failing my wife,

failing my family,
and failing myself,

self-sabotage,
setting myself up for failure.

I was bummed.

There were so many good days,
and I couldn't surf.

Nazaré woke up.

The sea is rising.

Now we're talking!

It's started, let's go.

Nazaré...

This place is like a second home to me.

The energy that vibrates here...

It's a magnificent thing.

Where is my jet ski?

Calm down!

No way man!

My greatest goal in this season
is definitely

to keep improving my performance.

And we've been working toward
the evolution of our team.

Let's go, team!

The Brazilian surfers
like Lucas and Michelle,

that's what I call as my team.

My team knows how to work,
how to cooperate in the water.

Since we started to ride
over here, we brought, like,

a little bit of evolution
on the way to ride Nazaré.

And I feel that Lucas was the surfer

that was bringing that evolution
to the lineup.

Chumbo does things that no one
believes anyone can do.

He's a person with this limitless,
expl*sive energy...

I like to joke, "We're going
to Chumbo University,"

because he transmits this energy to us.

Nazaré is always extreme, you know?

Here is the highest level ever.

If you wanna come here, you need to
pass a couple levels to get here.

I needed to pass through that too.

- You having a cup of coffee, kid?
- Yeah, it's bakery time!

This one knows where to go!

Saquarema is my hometown,

it's where I was raised and
where I learned to surf.

- Good morning!
- Good morning!

All good?

Oh, Super Lucas!

Good morning.

- Good morning, kid!
- How are you?

You disappeared. Were you in jail?

I was traveling.

- God bless you, kid.
- How are you?

Better now.

And your family?

Can I take a picture with you?

Sure thing.

Look here, smile.

- Can I take one too?
- Say hi there.

Thank you, guys. Have a good day.

Send hugs to your family.

- Bye, beautiful.
- Bye.

Right now, I'm on top of the world,

but I came from nothing.

On the rankings... I was 80.

I was ready to quit surfing
and go work with my dad.

Work a lot and go surfing,

and work a lot, do a trip, you know...

Like a normal person.

Not a big wave surfing pro.

I had a good talent for surfing

but I didn't find out who I am
at that time.

And then...

I learned about big waves.

My Brazilian surf idols showed me, like...

what is a big wave surfer, you know?

Yeah!

Carlos Burle...

A coach, a mentor, an idol...

Two-time world champion,
first big waves world champion.

He was the guy who was behind me

helping me to do the right calls,
you know?

Besides him, there's Márcio Freire...

one of the pioneers who started
paddle surfing at Jaws.

He taught me a lot,

like how to go paddle surfing
on that gnarly wave.

"Courage and lung, guaranteed fun."
That was his motto.

And that's the motto of our team.

For me, that wave was big...

I think I caught the biggest wave
of my life.

When I lived that, I just realized,
"Okay...

This is the big wave world."

I love to get waves like that.

To get pounded like that.

I love to keep pushing the limits
super hard.

Lucas "Chumbo" Chianca!

And that's what makes me one of the best.

You rocked it, man!

Thanks a lot!

Nowadays, the balance between
risk and safety in the water

has become a bit more important.

Just in time!

Hey, y'all!

It's my first season as a dad.

The love I feel for my daughter
is something indescribable.

It's different from anything
I've ever felt.

Everything I want is to be the
best father in the world.

When Maitê came to Nazaré
for the first time with me,

it was a dream come true.

She loves the jet ski!

Every time I think about my work now,

I have a much bigger boost of energy,

which is Maitê.

All I want is to do my job in
the best way possible

and come home to see my daughter's smile.

Oh!

Ah!

Perfect wave.

BARREL: Why do you even look at them
so you have to be like this?

Two days of perfect waves.

Garrett had to stay
out of the water

because of the fracture.

You know, he didn't
really have anywhere

to focus his energy again.

So he kind of shifted
outside of himself.

You got to get it
while it's good.

So you only got today
and tomorrow to train.

Um...hmm.

Usually, I do my best
to let CJ do

what CJ wants to do
and take his time.

But I felt like CJ should get

back on the horse
quick as possible

because the PTSD is
gonna get to him.

I know for CJ,
like, coming back to Nazaré

was him really stepping
into not knowing

what his role is in Nazaré.

Is he still a big wave surfer?

Is he a jet ski driver?

Is he just there to be
a spotter on the cliff?

It felt like
the natural evolution,

that I just had to go
back out on the water,

at least in some capacity.

I was gonna have
to face the fear again.

I knew that if I didn't,

that something would be
stuck in me.

XL. Boom.

It's with the arm cut open.

- Crazy.
- Whoa.

Do you remember when they cut that
off you?

Bare--like, yeah.

Ah!

- Oh!
- OK, good, good.

I was thinking,
oh, my God, is my bone

gonna be sticking
out of my arm?

It f*cking hurts.

You ready?

sh*t.

Yeah.

When CJ got
back in the water,

I fully honored his decisions.

I didn't want to be
a voice of fear.

Aww!

My intention was
to drive on the jet ski.

I figured that would be
kind of the first step.

Let's go, CJ.

Facing the fear,

it was almost like going out
for the first time

all over again.

Just hearing the sound
of the jet ski,

like a little jolt
to my system.

It made the trauma
very real in my body.

Let's go in that spot right over there.

Alemão, CJ, you guys out there?

Yeah, we're here.

Copy. Go ahead.

Please let CJ tow and pickup.

He needs to practice at least ten waves.

ALEMÃO: Okay, copy that.

Only ten waves!

Easy.

At least ten.

OK. OK.

God, it's so intimidating.

I'm getting
Garrett's reflection often.

There's a good set
out the back.

Get him on the rope right now.

Get him on the rope.

Next one.
Not this one, the next one.

Now, where's the rescue?

You should've been on him already.

He's a little late, but...

I find myself letting him go
on whatever flow he's on

and speaking
only what's necessary.

Yeah, I was trying to tell
you not to go for that wave

once you started going for it,

but you couldn't hear me,
right?

CJ: I could hear you. We were committed.

Look, here he goes.
He's going to do it.

Oh!

Oh, babo!

Get him, CJ.
He's right there. Get him.

Yeah, CJ.

CJ, that was a perfect pickup.

Appreciate that, bro.

It felt good to be
just recognized and felt

in that moment from him.

I think he equates
me getting back into the water

with me being healed
or being OK.

He faced his fear,
got out there.

It was great to see him
get back on the horse,

but more than anything,
it was great to see him

contribute to the team
by becoming

a good pilot on the jet ski.

Once you put in the time
and you become confident,

then you can become
a very capable driver.

But it's very, very
challenging to be confident.

And if you're not confident
in your driver,

then you're not
gonna be doing good,

and your driver is not
gonna be doing good.

When the first swell came

and it did not
really went well,

Justine was
really not confident

in the way Tony was driving.

She was feeling unsafe.

And when I got the footage
of the day,

I was looking at it,
and I was like, f*ck.

She's on the rope,

and she's just trying
to survive.

We were going backward.

Like, she's gonna
get injured again

if we keep doing like this.

She does not deserve this,
you know?

Like, she went through
so much things.

How many hours
she spent in the water here,

learning, training, driving.

She's the best.

She deserves
to be with the best.

Fred said to me, like, "Just stop
putting more energy into it."

But I still thought, like, "There is a
possibility to succeed, come on!"

I was just trying to find solutions.

She came to me and she told me
that she wasn't feeling confident

about my driving skills.

So many times, we are too far away

and even during our turns,
we're going too far away.

And we were, like...

too much, like, waiting...

She told me, like,

"I don't know if I feel, like, really safe
with you driving on the big days,

but we can still, like,
do training session

for normal days, like, smaller days."

Yeah, let's do it.
Let's go.

Was it difficult to hear that?

I mean, it was difficult,

because I was looking at them
kind of like as... family.

But as soon, like, someone
on your team tells you,

"Okay, I'm not feeling 100%
confident with you."

Automatically, you're not going to feel
the same with that person, you know?

Our life is in risk out there.

I felt, like, the weight of the
world on my shoulders.

Tony said to me that he didn't
want to surf with me anymore.

He didn't want to train
small days, medium days...

I was like, trying to...

To understand the whole
situation and everything.

I was like, "Okay, let's talk about it,
let's find a solution."

We know each other being friends,
so it is...

But no, he had...

He had made his decision.

Well, it will pass, but...

I'm a bit disappointed... A lot.

But that's how it is. That's life.

It doesn't always happen the way
you wanted or the way you dreamed.

It makes me sad.

But I have to learn.
He's not my son, he's not my brother.

Surfing big waves is about
the team, the human side...

and Fred and I committed ourselves to it.

We opened our heart, you know?

We learned that we have to open
our hearts a little less, you know?

For me to take that decision was one
of the hardest things I've had to do.

It's too much for a 20-year-old.

You know? But yeah, I mean...

It's life.

I kind of put myself into the situation,

so I had to deal with it.

Justine and Tony, they were
working on being a team.

And then all of a sudden,
one day,

you hear they're not gonna
be working together anymore.

So I didn't really know
what really happened.

So Justine was telling me
you're--I don't know,

you pulled out, or you're
pulling--you want to pull out.

Or do you feel like you were
having a hard time driving her,

or no?

It's not like a drive time--
had a hard time driving her.

It was just like
I was feeling the pressure

because it's Justine Dupont,
you know?

We all know
your driving's good.

Or I thought
your driving was good until--

now with this,
it's gonna be like,

rah, rah, rah, rah, so...

When I spoke with Garrett,

he told me that people are
judging me or talking sh*t.

And I was like... "What the f*ck?"

I know you're good already.

- Okay, thanks.
- All right.

- Thanks, Garrett.
- Yeah.

But that's what I was saying, you see?

You were forgetting that you're a surfer.

You're not a driver.

You're a driver when you're towing someone

just for fun, you know?

It's not...

That can take years off your surfing.

And you gotta surf like hell.

Nothing else.

Every time there's a bad moment
in my life,

I can take that sh*t that happened

and transform it into
a good thing that I can use.

More energy, more training.

I realized that if I don't put pressure
on myself,

I do everything better.

Like, I surf better,
I drive better, I paddle better.

Give me a break!

So I went out with my father.

Like, no pressure, no stress.

I just want to go out there,
get good waves,

and get out of the water happy,

with a smile on my face
because I had a lot of fun.

I just turned on the f*ck it mode
and I just sent it.

Did you see António in the water?

Yeah.

I saw... I remember seeing
one wave of Tony's.

He put himself on the perfect position.

I did like a huge air, like, "Boom!"

And Chumbo was in the channel, like,
"Whoa!"

So that was nice.

Tony has a very solid mind already.

He's very focused on what he wants.

It's not about what others say,
it's about what he wants.

And he's the only one who can decide that.

I was going some hardcore lines
and I did some carves.

And then on my last wave, I went deep.

f*ck, I'm in a lot of pain.

Like, literally a lot of pain,
like, my knee is k*lling me.

I don't know what hurts the most,

if it's the knee or the shoulder.

It's like, f*ck.

I really need a f*cking break.

It's like, it's...

too much sh*t at the same time, and...

I need a break.

Or I will get crazy.

Yep, yep.

- What's up?
- How are you?

I got the MRI done
the day before yesterday.

I'm waiting for the results.

And I'll check my knee next Tuesday.

It's f*cking tough, man.

It is.

I went to my physio the day after, and...

Four months out of the water because
of my knee and my shoulder.

I ended the season because
of the injury, basically.

Big wave surf is a very extreme sport.

Injuries are always there,
knocking at the door.

They're nightmares that always trap us.

Sometimes we wake up
and go to sleep still thinking.

But I think that...

The same way that an injury destroys
things, it builds up something too.

It builds a strong human,
a stronger athlete.

After the whole story about me and Tony,

I spent just way too much energy, and I...

I forgot myself.

I have my dreams and it's my motivation,
it's my fuel, you know?

I really wanted to be putting all
my energy into my goals.

Soon we'll have a baby
and life will be calmer.

- What?
- I hope so...

There was a big swell
on the charts at Jaws

and it was one of my goals to get
a good wave paddling at Jaws.

Let's go.

So last minute,
we went all the way to Hawaii.

I put my time into this crowd.

I found the wave.

I was like, "Wow, it's the one.

Okay, my goal is there."

Justine got
a really good wave,

but she had an accident.

Someone dropped on her,

and she got, like,
super f*cked.

Are you okay?

Are you okay?

I got some stars,
like, I couldn't even see.

Then after the wave,
I was like, "Wow, okay..."

sh*t, it was a punch.
I got my a*s smashed.

Sorry for the expression, but...

Then I realized, "Wow,
something is wrong with me."

And Fred looked at me and said,
"Wow, yeah, something is wrong."

I have a headache.

I'm feeling weird.

Concussion, right?

Yes.

The year before, I broke my foot.

I had this thing with Tony,

then I go to Jaws
and I don't reach my goal.

Let's go back to the harbor.

She was back again
in a position

where she did not
really understand.

Like, it's not
because of my skills.

It's not because
I'm not trained enough.

It's not because I'm not
putting energy in it.

So why?

It's getting colder.

The sun's coming up,
but it's getting colder.

That's right,
I thought it was me

with my feet there, but--

Good morning, good morning!

Early birds.

All of a sudden,
CJ was all in.

He was really waking up
every morning,

just training hard to be

the best jet ski pilot
he can be.

Good work, buddy.
Good training, bro.

Thank you.

Every time I go to Nazaré,

it lights that spark
of, like, pushing my limits,

physically, athletically,
you know, mentally.

Man, exciting session,

just to be out there
in some big waves

and be driving, you know,
with a little more confidence.

More confidence, always.
That's what it's all about.

Waves look big, man.

They look big.

Some of them looked OK,
kind of smooth riding.

Look at this one.

OK, OK.

That's a good one.
That's a good one.

Cool.

Reporting to the boys.

Oh, the legend.

That was a good wave.

I remember
that the moment came for me

where I just felt,
OK, I'm ready to go

for another big wave.

- Whoo!
- Whoa, yeah.

I'm in a mentality to surf
and get a couple waves.

- Really? Sick.
- Yeah, but just keep it light.

It was just clear.
I was feeling some confidence.

And in my mind,
I'm imagining it

to be a certain size, right?

Maybe 30 feet
or something like that.

- Damn.
- Yeah, ready?

I can't tell
if I'm cold or nervous.

- You are nervous?
- Both, yeah.

- See you on the other side.
- See you.

As soon as we get
out towards the harbor

and we come around the corner,
they're breaking big.

And it's just way bigger than
I wanted to get involved in.

I can feel my throat
drop into my stomach.

You all good?

Whoo! Yeah, boss.

Back in the game!

Eventually, it's,
"OK, we'll get a wave."

I'm like, all right,
just a, you know,

medium one, small one,
something like that.

And, boom, a wave pops up
as soon as I come,

and he sends me on this wave.

I come flying
out of this thing.

And I'm just, like,
freaking out out there.

I'm, like, having
almost a panic attack.

I'm like, what do I have
to gain from this?

Like, I'm not gonna ride
the biggest wave of my life.

I'm terrified.

And we're still
pushing into this.

And I'm thinking, why?

I need to speak up for myself.

But I didn't.

All right.
Taking--getting on the rope.

The next wave felt similar
to the wave that I ate it on.

I made it out.

But I just got so scared.

And Alemão came
and picked me up.

I'm like, please, stop.

No more. No more.

And I was crying to Alemão,
I'm like, I'm done, man.

I'm done.
He's like, it's OK, buddy.

It's OK.
It's OK, buddy.

You don't have to anymore.

It's like, we got it.

f*ck, man.

It's such a weird thing.

I really can't explain it.

I don't know
what I'm doing out there.

And I remember, like,
once I got back on the ski,

I just felt so safe

and glad
that it was over with.

And that's no reason
to do anything,

to, like, get it over with.

I want to be doing things
for the enjoyment of the thing.

Just--yeah.

It's a lot, man.

It's a lot.
It's really a lot.

I heard that CJ got a wave.

And I was like, wow, cool.

And then Nicole told me,
yeah, he fully lost it.

He was crying after the wave.

And I was like,
whoa, interesting.

OK.

Right on.

He's facing it.

He's doing it.

He doesn't have to.
Only if he wants to.

I need to be slowing down.

Slowing down, I think that's
where a lot of wisdom comes.

And it's just where
my spirit is guiding me to.

After that session,

I could feel myself
starting to realize

that I don't have
to be so swept along

in the wave of Garrett.

I think I had been
very attached

to being connected
to Nicole and Garrett,

that they need me.

And it just freed me up
to really imagine something

different for my life,
that it doesn't have to be

so connected,
attached to Nazaré

or to surfing giant waves.

So sometimes we need to go
to the extreme

to be able to come back
to some peace.

Whoa, good set. First peak.

Oh, look at this next wave.
It's the wave of the day.

Can I see?

At that point,
I think it all hit me.

What are we really doing here?

Nicole was questioning
the whole Nazaré thing.

It's like, what is really
to be gained out there surfing,

and what is there to be lost,
which is everything.

Home to me is where we can
be present with each other

and focus on what's important.

I just think it was time
to go back to Hawaii.

I don't know
if Nicole is trying

to get me to stop surfing.

I know
she doesn't want to lose me

and she doesn't want me
getting injured again.

But it's really hard
to get out of yourself

that you have become
after 55 years.

I'm an old dog.

Hard to teach me new tricks.

Messy baby.

Who went to bed without
taking a bath yesterday?

Because of Daddy's decision?

Yesterday we went
all the way to the airport.

They were supposed to leave,
Monise and Maitê.

We were taking everything from the car,
and then I said, "Oh...

Can you borrow me the passport?"

Boom! I took the passport and ran inside,

changed the tickets and said, "Okay,
you guys stay 10 days more with Dad."

Because I couldn't let them leave.

How are you?

Hi, how are you?

What a special year, no?

The best year of my life for sure.

Life is good, you know?

When you have good people around you,
and...

We have each other to help each other.

So...

I'm ready for anything right now.

Thank you, bro!

Next year will be even better!

Nazaré...

The energy in this place.

It's a dream.

Come over here.
Check this out.

She has more wetsuit
than, like, clothes.

Like, every day,
she's in doubt, like,

which one I'm gonna use?

Let's choose the wetsuit and go to the
water because the waves are pumping.

Okay. I'm going to dress myself.

It had been raining
for a while,

really crappy December.

And then that day
just came out of nowhere.

It was just like a nice,
pristine day.

And it was good
to see the sun.

Since I've been injured
this season,

I've been 100% focused
on making the fastest

and best recovery I can.

I'm stoked to be back, though.

I mean, I really missed it.

After Tony and Jaws...

I was lost, but I was free again, too.

Hey! Happy New Year!

I know that Fred will help me,
will support me.

And that day, everybody was there.

So it was nice to surf
with a lot of people.

Let's go, Márcio!

I knew Márcio was in town.

I heard he was around.

He's the Jaws legend
in big wave surfing.

So everybody was stoked.

I met Márcio when I was 18 or 19.

Super nice guy, he embraced us.

And he was, like, fully happy
to be here in Nazaré.

MÁRCIO: Thank you, Lucas.

If it wasn't for you, we wouldn't
have surfed Jaws!

Go back there and jump on the jet.

Push and jump.

You can go up, Márcio.

Dude, this experience is great.

There's so much camaraderie,
everyone helping each other.

The vibe here is awesome.

It's a really fun tow-in day.

I would prefer to be in the water, but...

On the radio today for my father.

Let's see what happens today.

There's a good one on the first peak.

I think it's Nic.

Yeah, Nic's going on this one.

That's a f*cking good barrel!

That day in January
was just crystal clear.

Everything was perfect.

Everyone was having
a great time.

I saw Lucas getting
a couple of waves.

I saw Márcio getting
a couple waves.

He's part of the history
of our sport.

And to see him in Nazaré,

we saw him, like,
paddling to the lineup,

and Justine was paddling,
and we look at each other,

and we're like,
oh, that's the guy.

It's f*cking hard to sit here!

It's, like, the perfect day.
Four or five meters.

Clean. Sunny.

That day, it was
a great vibe in the water.

Everybody was smiling.

I don't think anybody was
expecting what happened.

- Márcio!
- Ah, Márcio...

All of a sudden,
I saw Chumbo

just doing these sharp turns
on the skis

and, like, looking.

He pulled in, and...

It was like a four-wave hunt
to track him down.

When we got over there, like...

Chumbo was already doing CPR,
trying to make him breathe.

But he was already passed.

Back now with a tragedy
on the water.

A legendary surfer k*lled
while catching the giant waves

off Portugal's coast...

In surfing today,
Márcio Freire has died

while surfing
at Nazaré, Portugal.

The 47-year-old Brazilian
was towing in...

The worldwide
surfing community

is mourning the loss
of Márcio Freire,

who died Thursday off
the Central Coast of Portugal.

I did my best, that's what I know.

I did my best to save his life.

I'm kind of...

Processing everything.

It's just like...

So hard after all that happened.

It's just...

A big space inside me right now
and super painful.

It has been a really tough moment for me.

One of the hardest in my whole life,
but...

For sure, God put this on my life
because I...

really need to live that.

And just make me stronger, for sure.

I don't know when I'm gonna
be stronger, but...

Now, it's just super painful.

My relationship with the ocean
is very intense, very true.

This time, when it took Márcio,
I didn't understand.

It was a moment that I think
no one was prepared for.

Even after all the training sessions
in life.

But... it happened.

That was, like, the first time...

I couldn't help.

All the other times, like,
I could bring the person back.

It was shocking for everyone.

This was the first loss that
we ever had in Nazaré.

A week passed, and no one
wanted to go in the water.

There was just, like, a huge
dark cloud above Nazaré.

We all know that surfing big waves,
someone can die.

But knowing that and being ready
for that is totally different.

The worst thing for the surfing community

was that it was
a really experienced surfer

with good skills.

He couldn't be surrounded
with a better team.

So it really showed
that it can happen to anybody.

It make you think
about why you're doing this.

From day one,
the day I arrived in Nazaré

and went out there
and stand-up paddled around,

got caught
by a little teeny wave,

lost my board.

Current wouldn't let me in.

Swim in, sucked out.

Swim in, sucked out.

I was getting winded.
I was getting tired.

From that day forward,
I was like,

if people start coming here,
we're gonna lose somebody.

Unfortunately,
Márcio had to be

the first one to pass there.

He was a legend.

Oh, somebody get him.

The last image I have of Márcio
is of the smile on his face.

It's of him very happy.

He told me he was very happy
with my board.

I remember him
with his ukulele,

big smile, playing music.

Márcio was always having a good time

and trying to promote good vibes.

That was his vibe: a good vibe.

That was something that Márcio had,
that happiness inside of him.

He was a light soul.

And he was all heart.

He left that for us.

He left that legacy
of always being all heart.

When we have, like, a surfer that was
significant for the community

that passed away,

we get everybody together

and we make the last prayers
for the person, for the surfer.

Many people came for this.

Not just all the surfers, but the
whole community in Nazaré.

And all of Márcio's family was there
as well.

To embrace his last memories there.

And to... to make the last, like...

To say the last goodbye for him
in the water.

Hey, Márcio! Keep looking there
just like you were.

Exactly!

Into the beyond.

There, keep gazing into there.